connick159

is 1:80 fall adequate for next to the house? a bit of mixed info out there.

Here is the alternative i've thought of. This red lines are channel drains. Pink line is a french land drain drain. Thick red lines fall of land. Blue lines are fall on the patio. Which would you do?

Hi all, I've got a concept design for a large patio area but struggling to work out if I should be falling the patio away from the house, which means its working against the natural slope of the land. i.e. is that even achievable? The blue arrows are the way i want to fall the patio as its away from the house. The orange asterix is 12 metres from the opposite corner of the patio (under the trees opposite) The red arrows are the natural slope of the land. It not a massive slope but if I do a 1:80 fall it means that the end closest to the steps need to be 150mm higher which then starts making the steps too steep over that area. One idea i had was to put in a channel drain just at the top of the steps, right across the patio and then using the natural slope of the land to direct the water into the drain. (There will be another drain at the bottom of the steps with the lower patio by the house falling towards that) Would love to hear the thoughts of members as to how they've handled similar design for draining on large patio's with the natural fall going back to ward the house. Is the top patio far enough away from the house not to worry about the fall going towards the house?

I've now done this and rebooted the system. No change in that 2nd UH8 still not putting the pump into heating mode when stats calling for heat. Does it automatically set 2 zones once the dip switch turned to on or do I need to do that via the main controller too? I guess the other option could be to connect both UH8s to IN1 right? Is that doable. Cables are pretty tight as is tbh. This is the option from the instructions that best represent what I'm trying to do.

This happened. The stats on UH8 number 2 are calling for heat and the pump on that manifold is running but... The ASHP itself is showing as Paused when I look at the main controller. The flow pipe is pretty cool to touch too so the heating is not running. As soon as I call for heat again on the controller connected to IN1 the heatimg fires up (the play symbol is displayed).

Hi Simon, Thanks for the continued support in this... Much appreciated! Where they were connected before, to L/N/E block, they were reading 5.7v. After moving to IN1 and IN6 on FTC6 they now read 0.012v or something like that. Now on the L/N/E it reads

Thanks Gary, the FTC6 the terminal block looks slightly different but I've now removed them from TB2 and into IN1 and IN6 as per pic. Turned all power off to do so and when powered back on everything is up and running again. Heating and hot water flowing to both manifolds Interestingly, back on the UFH, when measuring the voltage on the heat enabled, it now reads 12v where as before it was 5. When checking voltage on the IN1 and IN6 on FTC6 they now read 0.012 or something like that. Where they were connected before, to L/N/E it they were reading 5.7v.

Thanks Gary, Only a single zone at moment. The question I have is about the actual wiring task. The guidance is to wire them into the terminal block on the FTC, which I get. What I'm unsure of is which of the 'strands' within the "heat enabled" cable from the heatmiser controller controller go into the terminal block (there are 3 strands (Lr/Ls/E)) so which ones go to terminal block? Cheers

At the UH8 controller, With the multimeter, when holding the red probe on Lr and black on Ls there is 0 volts. If I move one probe to the earth I get 5.7v when it's calling for heat. Same numbers where they connect at the FTC end. Is it a matter of moving the Ls and Lr on the FTC end into the terminal blocks IN1 and 6 as per the manual? I assume I can leave the earth as it is.

Nothing at all from uh8's connected to the terminal block. Both wires in from each uh8 connected to the same spot on FTC as in pic. Not checked the voltage back on uh8 when calling for heat. I have a multimeter somewhere so will do that tomorrow. Thanks again. I'm baffled as the heating is working and each manifold getting heat when calling for it. Obvs not right though.

Nah it's deffo black cable at the uh8 end. It also had a label on it at FTC (just below my finger) "Heat enable 2." Hope it's not a totally wrong type of cable he's used as it'll be a bastard to chase a new one between the two points. On the other end, the heatmiser UH8, the brown is connected to "Ls" the green and yellow is connected to "E" and black is connected to "Lr".

On the other end, the heatmiser UH8, the brown is connected to "Ls" the green and yellow is connected to "E" and black is connected to "Lr".

You wouldn't have a pic of where the uh8 cable comes into IN1 on the ecodon FTC would you. I suspect my sparky has stuffed it up as my uh8 heat enable feed is not connected at all to the IN1 block. I think I need to connect the live and live switch to the block but not 100% sure. Thanks for the post and glad your problem is solved. Be good to hear how the remote option worked out as I'm considering the same. I have all heatmiser stats in rooms hardwired back to 2 uh8 (one in the front of house, one in back). If what you have done works well for you it'll likely be a good option for us too.

Ok, so I looked at the FTC6 now and have found the 2 cables (heat enable) from each of the UH8 controllers. What I have found is that they are both wired into the L/N/E block but nothing at all into any of the input terminal blocks. Given that, I dunno how this is working but it seems to be, just doesn't seem like its working right but... The stats call for heat, the heat pump sends the hot water to the manifolds but how? And could this also be the reason for the erratic flow temps?