connick159

Full accounts were provided on 7th Feb by the looks of companies house register.

Just for Info for anyone still considering switch. I just switched from Octopus Agile to Tomato Lifestyle (battery, although we don't have one). I modelled my usage data for Jan before switching. For 896.376 kwh consumption in Jan Octopus Agile actual cost was £213.69. Tomato cost based on agile usage data = £133.80. Saving of £79 for Jan alone so... I did the switch via the tomato website. Switch took 5 days, was very smooth, no issues for us so far. 1st day on Tomato and we used 29.432 kwh - cost £3.30. Previous day on Agile we used 28.22 kwh - cost £9.20 Hasn't been many cheap days on agile last couple of months. We have a heat pump, no solar, no batteries and we try to load shift and use the ASHP over night when cheaper. We have underfloor heating in screed so we 'charge' up the slab over night and also now in the cheaper slots on Tomato which is 9:30am to 11:30 am as well as from 10pm to midnight (14p). No battery for storage or anything either so, if we did have a batt it's be cheaper still. Our kwh has gone up from around 30 to 33-35 but our cost have come down from anywhere between £7 and £9 per day down to £3:30 - £4 per day. Hope that helps anyone in a similar boat. (So far so good for our switch from octopus agile to tomato.)

Do you have batteries and PV which would be factored into you cost or just an ASHP only? I'm looking to switch as well. Only have ashp and are 100% electric for power and heating. Diolch

Would cosy be worth switching to, from agile, without any batteries? We only have the heat pump and nothing else. Will have a look at tomato too. Cheers

Good to know, thanks. Is there any publicly available info on this?

Hi all, Considering a switch from octopus agile to OVO with heat pump add on. We already have a smart meter and E7 so wondering if any experience / advice here regarding the best tariff for the baseline OVO tariff? Was looking at the "simpler energy" one via direct debit but notice they also have the PAYG tariff with day and night rates similar to the "simpler" one. Any thoughts or things to look out for. Anyone on this heat pump tariff with thoughts? Thanks in advance.

is 1:80 fall adequate for next to the house? a bit of mixed info out there.

Here is the alternative i've thought of. This red lines are channel drains. Pink line is a french land drain drain. Thick red lines fall of land. Blue lines are fall on the patio. Which would you do?

Hi all, I've got a concept design for a large patio area but struggling to work out if I should be falling the patio away from the house, which means its working against the natural slope of the land. i.e. is that even achievable? The blue arrows are the way i want to fall the patio as its away from the house. The orange asterix is 12 metres from the opposite corner of the patio (under the trees opposite) The red arrows are the natural slope of the land. It not a massive slope but if I do a 1:80 fall it means that the end closest to the steps need to be 150mm higher which then starts making the steps too steep over that area. One idea i had was to put in a channel drain just at the top of the steps, right across the patio and then using the natural slope of the land to direct the water into the drain. (There will be another drain at the bottom of the steps with the lower patio by the house falling towards that) Would love to hear the thoughts of members as to how they've handled similar design for draining on large patio's with the natural fall going back to ward the house. Is the top patio far enough away from the house not to worry about the fall going towards the house?

I've now done this and rebooted the system. No change in that 2nd UH8 still not putting the pump into heating mode when stats calling for heat. Does it automatically set 2 zones once the dip switch turned to on or do I need to do that via the main controller too? I guess the other option could be to connect both UH8s to IN1 right? Is that doable. Cables are pretty tight as is tbh. This is the option from the instructions that best represent what I'm trying to do.

This happened. The stats on UH8 number 2 are calling for heat and the pump on that manifold is running but... The ASHP itself is showing as Paused when I look at the main controller. The flow pipe is pretty cool to touch too so the heating is not running. As soon as I call for heat again on the controller connected to IN1 the heatimg fires up (the play symbol is displayed).

Hi Simon, Thanks for the continued support in this... Much appreciated! Where they were connected before, to L/N/E block, they were reading 5.7v. After moving to IN1 and IN6 on FTC6 they now read 0.012v or something like that. Now on the L/N/E it reads

Thanks Gary, the FTC6 the terminal block looks slightly different but I've now removed them from TB2 and into IN1 and IN6 as per pic. Turned all power off to do so and when powered back on everything is up and running again. Heating and hot water flowing to both manifolds Interestingly, back on the UFH, when measuring the voltage on the heat enabled, it now reads 12v where as before it was 5. When checking voltage on the IN1 and IN6 on FTC6 they now read 0.012 or something like that. Where they were connected before, to L/N/E it they were reading 5.7v.

Thanks Gary, Only a single zone at moment. The question I have is about the actual wiring task. The guidance is to wire them into the terminal block on the FTC, which I get. What I'm unsure of is which of the 'strands' within the "heat enabled" cable from the heatmiser controller controller go into the terminal block (there are 3 strands (Lr/Ls/E)) so which ones go to terminal block? Cheers