Osman

Thanks both Redbeard & Nick, found helpful info through this thread - so grateful. For anyone else in same situation, this is what we will use: fire rated aerogel strips on the steel, and the cold roof will have fire rated rockwool (cold roof), and fire boards internal areas, on the outside, we are aiming to clad with bricks around the steel to go up all way on the corner.

Thanks a lot Nick that is helpfull, yes all steels are galvanised and painted with anti rust paint, steel not holding second floor, only carrying a small mono pitched roof on top of a bay window. What is FR?

Thank you Nick for your response, much appreciated. Here is a picture, build has progressed, 1 of the steel columns has been wrapped with bricks on the 2 sides, the other 1 in the corner will have a window (bay window) turning around and UPVC frame/corner to hide the corner steel. Would there be a need for fire rated board rather than PIR/insulated plasterboard? the builder suggest to use PIR, but researching it says to use fireboard, I am more concerned about condensation and cold bridging.

Hi Furnace, I am in a similar situation as yourself, where I have Square Hollow Steel (stainless steel) installed to support a mono pitch roof above a bay window, I wonder if you could give an update on how you got around insulating the steel in your situation. My stainless steel is sitting in a 100mm cavity (brick outside and dense blocks inside). The brick will go up half way, then a window will be installed so part of the steel will be covered by the window frame. The build is in progress and I am seeking advice.

Thanks, would I need to wrap the PIR in DPM or would the foil be enough?

Thanks for all the steps here, very helpful, should a DPM be installed at any stage here to wrap the EPS? and would PIR also work as Big Jimbo suggested in his comments?

Good evening everyone, I wonder if I can get some help/thoughts on how to finish the below: I recently got a room renovated in my 1930s house, at the end of the room an extension was done sometimes in the 50s/60s, the extended part has a patio door which was recently replaced with a new bifold sitting on the outer leaf. The workman put down new joists (suspended timber floor) and the joists was run resting on the inner leaf of the masonry as in picture. Also, telescopic vents were installed under the bifold which crosses between outer and inner wall to help with subfloor ventilation. I now have the cavity to finish, so I can run the floor (chipboards/plywood bords) going all the way up to the bifold door, the workmen suggested no need for cavity closer when they did the work. I am unsure how to finish off the cavity up to the bifold to avoid cold bridging and any damp. I am concerned the plywood/chipboard in that area will build up mould. What is the best approach in this situation, all thoughts are much appreciated.

Good evening everyone, I wonder if I can get some help/thoughts on how to finish the below: I recently got a room renovated in my 1930s house, at the end of the room an extension was done sometimes in the 50s/60s, the extended part has a patio door which was recently replaced with a new bifold sitting on the outer leaf. The workman put down new joists (suspended timber floor) and the joists was run resting on the inner leaf of the masonry as in picture, is this correct?. Also, telescopic vents were installed under the bifold which crosses between outer and inner wall to help with subfloor ventilation. I now have the cavity to finish, so I can have the floor going all the way up to the bifold door, the workmen suggested no need for cavity closer when they done the work. I am unsure how to finish off the cavity up to the bifold to avoid cold bridging and any damp. What is the best approach in this situation, all thoughts are much appreciated.