frslam

hi, looking for advice for replacing an external door threshold/upstand. Full strip out, floor void filled 75tn type 1, dpm, 100mm c30 with a252 mesh. Will be installing new windows and doors. As is usually the case in Scotland, doors and windows are check revealed. Some point in the 1990's Everest fitted new windows and doors, though the windows are in the check reveals, the doors were brought in line with the inner block leaf instead of the cavity and the cavity was closed on the outside of the building. I want to move the face of the door back out to where it should be - the outer face of the frame meeting the inner face of the external block leaf. the slab is already poured and I will be adding 100mm PIR, UFH and a floor screed. This can be from 50 - 70mm. I'm looking at a few products such as compacfoam, marmox and triotherm. I'd want something thermally efficient which can support the weight of a normal size composite or timber door, but sits on the step which already bridges the cavity. I would rather it didn't protrude so as to show on the inside of the house because I'm hoping to polish the concrete screed. So I'm looking for something that can be used as an upstand and threshold for the door, as shown on the diagram, I plan to cut away the upstand that is there now. Thanks for any tips

Hi folks, first time poster here. I've been reading posts on this site for years, it's excellent. From the Isle of Skye. I am currently renovating a house, full strip back-to-block, floor void filled with 75tn of type 1 in preparation for a 100mm slab, PIR and UFH. I'm currently working on the Roof and structure, getting ready to install 6 inch kit panels between gable and half way along the length of the house to support a glulam ridge beam. The ridge beam will support 8 x 2 rafters in between the original 5 x 2 rafters. This is so half the house can have a cathedral ceiling (approximately 6m from floor to ridge). I have a SE who specified the structure but I'm trying to decide which is best way to seat the rafters on the wall head. This is because of how the original roof was built. The original rafter ties extended outside the walls of the house, with a plate running the length of the house, similar to how a ridge board works. The rafters themselves then sit on top of the plate and are fixed through to the rafter ties (ceiling ties) and the ends of this make up the fascia/soffit. This arrangement creates a little more height for the 1st floor rooms, but the difficulty is new 8 x 2 rafters won't sit on the wall head. Has anyone ever seen a detail where timber is cut (triangles) and glued/nailed or screwed to bottom of rafters to widen the seat to allow rafters to sit on the wall head? Hopefully this is maybe easier to understand on my wee sketch.