madilyn

I’ve dealt with a similar question when I needed to choose a brick bond for a house. Usually, the architect handles this, but I discussed the details with the contractor after getting planning permission. It’s better to decide in advance what you want to see-stretcher bond is often used for standard buildings, and if you want something more interesting, you can look at options like Flemish bond or English bond. I just checked examples on brick manufacturers’ websites and showed them to the contractor to understand how it would look.

I always try to check with the installer first, if he has a HETAS registration and who processed documents on Bldg Regs, because it is important for further guarantee of work. I have come across that not all masters know the requirements for lead on slate roof, especially if the focus is only on safety by HETAS. I would also ask them for the standard and immediately say that the installer should pay for the corrections.

I have encountered a similar situation when doing loft conversion in my home. I am also not tall, but even I after lowering the ceilings to 2300mm became a little uncomfortable, especially in the bathroom and bedroom. Sell such a house later really difficult, because potential buyers often pay attention to the height of the ceilings. I would not recommend lowering the ceilings if there are other options, such as changing the roof structure or using more compact beams. It is better to weigh all the pros and cons, considering not only the comfort for yourself, but also the future possible reduction in housing costs.

I did a dormer loft conversion about a year ago near Brighton, the house is also semi-detached. I have a total cost of the work in the range of 48-52 thousand pounds, including all materials, work, and standard finishing without excess. The term is about three months. Much depends on the condition of the roof, access, and your requests for the interior finish. Note that prices sometimes change quickly, so I advise you to get a couple of fresh ratings from local builders.

I used green-coated OSB for the roof of my house, and I can say that the material gives good tightness if you glue the joints correctly. But unlike the walls, on the roof, moisture load and temperature differences are higher, especially if vapor permeability is important. I have personally encountered that without good ventilation in the covered space, it begins to accumulate, especially in winter. Suppose there is no possibility of making a full warm roof. In that case, I advise that everything be carefully calculated to ensure the dew point and provide at least minimal ventilation; otherwise, sooner or later, the tree will start to get wet.

I encountered a similar situation when buying a house with attic. I also had doubts about the fire safety requirements, especially due to the lack of fire doors and a protected escape route. I advise you to insist on detailed information from building control and not accept indemnity only if you are concerned about security. Insurance companies may refuse to pay if there is something wrong with the documents or if there are irregularities after the purchase. I wouldn’t rush to finalize the deal until it’s completely clear.

I recently changed the leaking flat roof of the outbuildings and finally chose lean-to, because the beam is shorter, less materials and easier to work with, which means it’s cheaper. Gable end gives better lighting and ventilation of the attic, but higher fronton, more labor-intensive and requires additional grating. Check the height of the house, slope for water drainage, snow loads and if you need permission documentation, then it will be clear whether the difference is worth.