Kernow

For a Self Build VAT reclaim (new build), has anyone successfully achieved this before your completion certificate has been issued? We would like to put in our VAT reclaim before we attain our final completion certificate from building control. If anyone has managed this what documentation did you use in the place of a certificate? Many Thanks

Not a lot, I'll have a measure up, Probably only a few sq metres worth

Yes I have noticed this, but a lot of the local suppliers don't stock it as standard so have to order it in with a minimum order value

Where has everyone been sourcing their compacfoam 400 from? Or alternatives As I only need a small order I'm interested to know where everyone is getting theirs from. Thanks

We are about to get our floor screeded with cemfloor liquid screed. So that we can get our levels exactly right for bifolds etc, what allowance should I give for the following floor make up? 9/10mm porcelain tile adhesive ditra mat adhesive 55-65mm screed We can tweak the screed thickness to make sure we are at the right height, but unsure on thicknesses etc. Thanks

Starting to think about getting insulation down ready for screed. we have the following floor build up: 100mm reinforced slab 140mm pir 60mm liquid screed porcelain tiles floor covering Question is will the screed/insulation be strong enough to take the staircase and newel post weight or will added support be required? Just a standard staircase, nothing fancy. If it needs supporting what’s the best way to be this? Replace PIR with something like an XPS500 or is there an alternative solution? Thanks

Currently thinking of either of these options, Option A would be easier to detail as I thinking fixing the small piece of xps500 over a radon barrier could prove challenging. In hindsight I know I should have used xps500 under the sill as a cavity closer, but too late for that now. Option A Option B

Thanks Jenki, That’s useful, I hadn’t considered the use of a higher compaction rated insulation in the threshold. That should help eliminate the cold bridging detail I was worried about. Nickfromwales, our details around the door threshold/doc are very vague, but we are basically having a 2 layer radon barrier, one under a ground bearing slab, then one internally, lapped up the wall.

I would be listening to the roofers that say your membrane needs replacing. Assuming your gutters aren’t blocked and overflowing, then even if these leak it shouldn’t be causing that problem. looking at your roof you don’t have enough overlap on your tiles, so wind blown rain is getting under your tiles and through a perished membrane.

Does anyone have any drawings of how they have detailed their doorway thresholds when building with a polystyrene ICF. Specifically radon barrier and cold bridging details? I’m not totally convinced my detailing is best, but it may be too late for any other options. Thanks

Thanks, have had a quick look. I think I will be ordering some bends, as some of ours are definitely tighter than the recommended 150mm radius. Yes I understand that large smooth curves are better, it’s mainly on the vertical to horizontal junctions that are going to be a bit tight. Labelling - good point

Currently in the middle of DIY installing our MVHR system, and just wondering about the bends. Some of our 90 degree bends seem a bit on the tight side, how tight have you bent your pipes? I see you can get 90deg joints, am I better of getting some of these or are tight bends ok? We are using ubbink 90mm semi rigid round ducting. Any feedback would be appreciated.

Yes through the tongue is the standard why of using them, just not fully convinced that face fixing with them will be adequate, as the head is so small. Thanks JamesP, looks good. Hardly noticeable there. Thanks

Interesting, if you used tongue tite did you fix them through the face of the board or through the tongue? Do you have any pictures of how they look now?

I had considered screwing it, but adding up the screw cost of £800-1000, versus a nail cost of approx £200 it’s going to be nailed. Probably going for hand nailing, as it will all be face fixed, so keen on the improved accuracy of hand nailing it. Labour is free, if a bit tedious