mads

Working through it (slowly) as some of the terminology is new to me so having to understand what is being asked for (I feel it needs a bit more notation for those who do not work in this space or are more of a lay person like myself). A couple of suggestions... UFH construction to allow different options for different floors. My GF will be screed, FF panels, SF nothing DWH source - sunamp (appreciate though that not applicable for most people) Change the save confirmation window so not a pop up window - a little annoying. Auto-saving feature? Add air permeability target info

So… somewhere between my contractor, the builders merchant and the manufacturer, they’ve ordered the wrong wall insulation. Whilst what they have ordered doesn’t have a significant difference in u-value (0.021 vs 0.02) when I scale this out across the entire build envelope it does take it above the threshold we set for SAP etc. Plus I’m a little loathed to compromise on something that is going to have to last the life of the house. The correct one will take 10-20 days to be manufactured and shipped from Ireland to us which has impact on brickies who were due to start on Monday to build ground floor walls. Bit of a long shot but does anyone have some Unilin ECO360 CavityTherm ECO/CT 150mm that they aren’t needing just yet? We can get ours ordered and then do a swap once it arrives or have delivered to you to replace.

For that kind of money, you'd expect atleast a metal surround and not a laquered plastic one!

I'm also happy to test (and have done software design, development and testing in previous life). Plus this will be useful for my needs as like the OP, I have had a ASHP proposal that seems ridiculous (16KW) given the energy efficiency intended for the house - even if it is on the larger side.

Unfortunately not. When the tenders came back, it quickly materialised that we can't afford to do the outbuilding. Instead we defaulted to buying a static caravan and are currently living in there on-site. Caravan cost £5k delivered and getting it set up with electrics, water and drainage cost c£2k. Still a considerable saving compared to renting. Plus am on site so can pop out between meetings to view progress and attend site meetings easily. If only... got one neighbour who would notice and dob on us. Figured easier to play by the rules.

Currently got plans for 10,000L but considering adding an extra 5000L. Will be using for toilets, washing machine, garden.

Could you share more on your approach to filtering before and within the house please? I'm particularly interested in the UV and also how you are thinking to reduce tanins.

Hello all, we have had planning approval for a full knock down of existing bungalow, and rebuild of a 3 storey house plus car port and garage. separately, and subsequently, we have had planning approved for knocking down 2x existing garages to replace it with a new 10m x 6m insulated steel outbuilding (4m at apex). Needed full planning permission as it is 0.5m from boundary (to neighbours field) we were originally thinking to live in a static caravan on site whilst the rebuild is done. However, this isn’t seeming very feasible in terms of then removing it, as well as the fact we would need to create hard standing, get electricity to it, water and sewage. we are now thinking that perhaps we build the outbuilding first, move into it for temporary accommodation whilst the main house gets built. We would look to put up some temporary stuff walls to separate spaces. Once it’s built, then will return it back to single space outbuilding. questions: 1) do we need planning permission to live in the outbuilding? 2) what things do I need to consider for building regs sign off (assuming would need)? 3) I assume it doesn’t affect the VAT reclaim for main house which is a separate planning application and did not mention the new outbuilding nor will include in terms of materials, costs etc. thank you

Yes I have and have put it in the tender spec. However, I don't want the MC to be using it as a get out of jail free card and actually get to as low as possible before we apply it. Also, I agree with you about it being a bit of a cop out so thought I would ask the collective wisdom here as to what has been targeted/achieved before I respond back and ask the SAP consultant to try harder.

Hey Nick, I will be installing MVHR throughout and removing trickle vents from the windows. There is no letterbox though there is a catflap planned (https://www.thepetflap.com/passivhaus-pet-door/) Not intentionally building to NZEB but there is a desire to build to the best standards we can afford. Already have a 30Kw PV array, solar batteries, ASHP, MVHR, UFH planned. The cavity is 150mm.

Hello all, the architect has forwarded me a response from the SAP consultant and wanted to gauge what target (and actual) people have had for air tightness in a traditional block and brick masonry build? what the SAP consultant said…

@Gus Potter, thanks for your reply. Now got the report back which I have attached. Also attached some floor plans and elevations so you can see what the foundations need to support. Any advice/feedback is appreciated. BH Forum.pdf Geotechnical investigation report 0- redacted - mads.pdf

Yes, I did and have also shared with the architect but apparently not helpful. I need to go back to the company and see if can get anything more but thought I would ask here in case others have sussed this before.

How did you fit them? Do you have any architect diagrams that I could share with mine to give him a different way to look at this?

Hello, Following on from my post asking about external blind suppliers, I tasked the architect with incorporating some external solar blinds into the construct (brick and block with 150mm) so that the boxes are hidden rather than being face fixed to the windows. He has come back with the following response: I wondered if anyone has managed to do this? Thank you, Atif