AidanGee93

Should read (while boiler switched off*) which then indicates im loosing pressure via the flow and return pipes to the rads or rads itself...and boiler not the issue

Cheers mate, I'll try this out so I know what's the issue. Seen someone say if my pressure drops, I can isolate the flow and return valves under the boiler (while boiler on) and if the pressure stays the same as what it was when isolated, then the boiler isn't the issue?

Here's better pic with 6 pipes... Cicrles the pipes outside, green is central heating drain valve. So the red must be the Trv discharge? What I can do is tie a sandwich bag to this (preferably on a dry 24hours) then if it's wet inside it means?

So picture with tumble dryer in it is the bottom floor where pipes run up to next floor for the boiler. There's a T piece on the 15mm copper...mabey this is the pressure relief valve pipe leading to a drain pipe? (Where that T piece leads to is the en suite).

Yes mate, bare with me I'll post a picture of the boiler with pics of the pipes running up...later tonight

Thanks mate, I think I'll check the blow out pipe and do what you recommend to see if any water gathering...only issue is my boiler is located in the central of the house upper floor, so not against a gable end wall with the blow out pipe heading through that wall ..any idea where the blow out pipe will lead to? There's an bathroom in room next to boiler cupboard so thinking it mabey attached onto the drainage pipe from sink/bath?

Got a 23/4 year old combi boiler (vokera) runs good and no issues with heating but I am expecting to change sooner rather than later. I've been topping my pressure up every other night as I notice it drops 0.5. - 0.75 bar of pressure every 24 hours... wondered why? Recently fitted new radiators and one of them at the tail Valve has the smallest drip (I wrapped 20 times in ptfe)...it's so small I only noticed a few drips on the laminate and I've since put a cup under it, every couple of days I'll throw the water away but it's no more than a few drops of water. Another existing rad had similar, but drops were from the thermostat rad Valve so I just closed that off and no leaks. (Closed just as I'm not using that radiator) Could this pressure drop from boiler be caused by the leaky rad tail Valve?...just find it mad for the pressure to be dropping from a few drops of water. There's no other leaks anywhere, no signs of water stains on ceilings etc from pipes...mabey a leak under the house in crawl space? Any ideas, appreciated 👍

Thanks alot nick! I'll leave both switches on in cupboard, and kitchen switch off...if used alot of water I.e bath and need more I'll flip switch at kitchen! Really appreciate the feedback

This is my 2x consumer units that are fitted. Hopefully sheds more light...

Guys, thanks to all you're comments...Found them really helpful! Plan is to phone current supplier find out their peak times and go with off peak supply...hoping be enough for throughout the day .ie showers hot water for dishes etc so should be fine. Will bare in mind about octopus energy and give them a phone as be handy for my electric heaters. (Realising smart meter needed). So plan is to leave my off peak switched on all the time. Q... (Double checking) I know the kitchen switch is the booster switch if you like for 24 hour supply hot water to activate if needed (i.e used all hot water that day and wanted a Bath in evening say). Will I leave the cupboard 24hr switch supply on ALL THE TIME and the only way that will heat is if I switched kitchen switch on so it's acting like a breaker when switched off?...so without both switches on the 24hr heat won't activate? To test that's the case I'll knock peak supply switch,24 HR switch and kitchen switch all off and should be quiet. Will then switch 24hr on hopefully still quiet, next put kitchen switch on and if I hear any noise in cylinder I know that's the case. If that appears correct using kitchen switch with cupboard 24 HR supply switched off won't work. Bit long winded above just means if all correct I can get other important things rectified in flat before coming back to this matter with no big electric Bill waiting for me. Cheers again guys!

Advice please? (Attached pics) Got unvented hot water cylinder in a flat (1995 build) I just purchased, fully electric flat no gas. The unvented hot water tank has two switches... 1 is off peak supply (through the night it runs only- cheaper prices). Other is 24 hour on demand so heats at any time throughout day (peak times so normal elec rates). But...There's a third switch (in kitchen).... So I plan leaving off peak switch on and others off so that tank heats up during night and is hot enough next day as I know if left 24hr on, the tank would constantly heat up to a required temp via thermostat so using alot of electricity... I was told that if I wanted a bath say, and the hot water wasn't as warm as I'd have liked (Ie last heated in the tank night before)I can switch on the 24hr switch for hit water in demand...which makes sense. My question is, following on from above I was told I'd have to switch the kitchen socket (silver switch) on along with the 24 HR supply switch to achieve the on demand hot water? Does this sound right...or is it possible that the silver switch located in kitchen is for hot water on demand to the kitchen sink? Also told if just showering and no baths just leave the off peak switch on and rest off so uses as little electriciy as possible. Any tips on this would be great before I waste a small fortune. It all makes sense just the third kitchen switch is throwing me off a little like why is it there and not just use the switch marked 24hr next to off peak?? Any help much appreciated.

Painters advice: Using a water based paint for my walls, first coat went on lovely but when dry I noticed on most of the walls little air bubbles (some as big as a fifty pence piece). Let it dry and I sanded them down which worked. Upon painting second coat most of them bubbles have reappeared? Id love to know you're thoughts/advice for treating as I'm thinking the walls where never plastered...just plasterboarded and joint taped and Mabey the paints seeping behind the paper on the plasterboard causing bubbles?

Hello all, have very little pink paint left and after paneling and caulking I noticed the caulk cracked? Didn't want to take chance with putting the left over pink I have (not a lot at all) to hopefully seal the cracks. So bought a no crack decorative caulk and put a small bead over existing, said can paint within 5 mins but will leave it 24 hours before painting...have I done right thing? Any tips welcome...cheers

I'm in Greenock

Thanks mate, very handy comment...will check them out, cheers

Thankyou mate, appreciate that

Thanks mate, I'll get someone to do them definitely if it's just the hinges, reason I asked was I want to finish the room without the need to rip a window out, so I'll be fine to decorate whole room then replace hinges down the line? Do you know the name of the hinges? Other user commented 'click to center hinge'?

Hello all Looking for some advice, bedroom window for my future little one due January won't fully close, although it won't be an issue with water coming in (not a weather side window) it will be really drafty in winter. Any tips? See Pictures...it's as if the window closes at the handle side but the opposite side has a massive gap, can clearly see outside through the gap. Is this an easy fix, won't have to replace whole window? Hopefully just new hinges will sort? Any tips Greatly appreciated. (See pics below)...

Also mate, thought to say, only think I'm thinking is I gave it a generous doze of decorators caulk...thinking that's what's Mabey pulled? Just weird coz it didn't pull on the skirting with other paint. Anyway if I sanded the patches would it be okay assuming it's some cured caulk? Then filled with zinsser BIn or that primer I got for the pine wood panelling? Like I say above still love to use the frog tape Mabey go for yellow this time round? Hopefully you see this mate, cheers

Hi mate thanks for you're reply, do appreciate you! Material is plasterboard onto wooden studs with brick work holding studs. Yes mate I've given the skirting the painting first and went a bit higher onto the walls just coz I wanted to seal the decorators caulk, makes sense what you are saying but it's peeled at the sides and the top too?... definitely didn't satin the sides or top. It's strange coz when I pulled the tape off skirting in rest of the room the tape peeled nothing off and lighter shade pink stayed tact. It honestly feels like if I peel that dark shade pink I could peel lots of it off in one go. Like you say rough it up with sand paper and prime it, I have primer I was suggested to use for the pine panelling could I use that over the damaged parts? Or I have Zinnser BIN? Reckon once sanded and primed (if you still think that's the way) it would still be good to frog tape for that crisp line...heard yellow colour is low tack so could use this? If it makes any difference I pulled the other green frog tape from skirting after wall paint next day so completely dry...worked great, paneling area I pulled only 20 mins after second coat but was fairly dryish

Hello People, looking for any advice... Panelled my daughter's room then decorators caulked the gaps aswell as wood filled. I primed the Pine paneling and painted skirting satin brilliant white, then walls with a light shade pink Acrylic based paint. Then taped up panelling area and painted dark pink Acrylic paint again, gave it two coats then 20 mins after last coat pulled it and not to my delight, see pics... Looking for help as carpet needs fitted in 2 days, I could hand paint it tonight no issues but it's the tape that's definitely pulled paint off but would like to use it again or a diff sort...was green frog tape (which worked brilliantly against the white satin and lighter pink walls to skirting... Cheers Aidan

Pls see pics... Got 10mm copper flow and return pipes, have standard lockshield valves and want to replace to TRVs. Will the one in pic (Screwfix) work? I see it's 15mm but think it comes with a 10mm reducer for the copper pipe... Also, if I drain my central heating system (as have a few of these to fit while renovating rooms) and don't plan to use central heating can I still shower and run hot water for bath/basin etc? It's a combi boiler and currently on the switch for hot water only, won't switch it to hot water and central heating... Cheers, Aidan.

Worth mentioning I would like to use the crawl space loft for storage, nothing delicate would go up there for storage. That's probably another topic tho

Cheers for you're tips, I get you now with the foam top/sides/bottom then can plaster it. See the current set up is studs and plasterboard so when I replace it I'll possibly add a slightly thicker stud (room for insulation) and plasterboard as I'm happy with the space even if loose a tiny bit with bigger studs. The ceiling is quite high I thought this too but happy with the height...if get up the small crawl space loft above it and add plenty insulation. Will height of the garage be an issue regarding moisture/mould in future? Regards to sucking air out the house...I understand you're point just don't see how I could do it as the garage is about 2.5m off the gable end of our house, plus that's a path to back garden...also even if was a way it's into the living with closest room? I will keep my eye on the garage door next heavy rain fall but had a rough check and seemed no sign of previous water ingress. Thanks for you're tips I appreciate anyone's input with some knowledge behind them