AidanGee93

Hello all, have very little pink paint left and after paneling and caulking I noticed the caulk cracked? Didn't want to take chance with putting the left over pink I have (not a lot at all) to hopefully seal the cracks. So bought a no crack decorative caulk and put a small bead over existing, said can paint within 5 mins but will leave it 24 hours before painting...have I done right thing? Any tips welcome...cheers

I'm in Greenock

Thanks mate, very handy comment...will check them out, cheers

Thankyou mate, appreciate that

Thanks mate, I'll get someone to do them definitely if it's just the hinges, reason I asked was I want to finish the room without the need to rip a window out, so I'll be fine to decorate whole room then replace hinges down the line? Do you know the name of the hinges? Other user commented 'click to center hinge'?

Hello all Looking for some advice, bedroom window for my future little one due January won't fully close, although it won't be an issue with water coming in (not a weather side window) it will be really drafty in winter. Any tips? See Pictures...it's as if the window closes at the handle side but the opposite side has a massive gap, can clearly see outside through the gap. Is this an easy fix, won't have to replace whole window? Hopefully just new hinges will sort? Any tips Greatly appreciated. (See pics below)...

Also mate, thought to say, only think I'm thinking is I gave it a generous doze of decorators caulk...thinking that's what's Mabey pulled? Just weird coz it didn't pull on the skirting with other paint. Anyway if I sanded the patches would it be okay assuming it's some cured caulk? Then filled with zinsser BIn or that primer I got for the pine wood panelling? Like I say above still love to use the frog tape Mabey go for yellow this time round? Hopefully you see this mate, cheers

Hi mate thanks for you're reply, do appreciate you! Material is plasterboard onto wooden studs with brick work holding studs. Yes mate I've given the skirting the painting first and went a bit higher onto the walls just coz I wanted to seal the decorators caulk, makes sense what you are saying but it's peeled at the sides and the top too?... definitely didn't satin the sides or top. It's strange coz when I pulled the tape off skirting in rest of the room the tape peeled nothing off and lighter shade pink stayed tact. It honestly feels like if I peel that dark shade pink I could peel lots of it off in one go. Like you say rough it up with sand paper and prime it, I have primer I was suggested to use for the pine panelling could I use that over the damaged parts? Or I have Zinnser BIN? Reckon once sanded and primed (if you still think that's the way) it would still be good to frog tape for that crisp line...heard yellow colour is low tack so could use this? If it makes any difference I pulled the other green frog tape from skirting after wall paint next day so completely dry...worked great, paneling area I pulled only 20 mins after second coat but was fairly dryish

Hello People, looking for any advice... Panelled my daughter's room then decorators caulked the gaps aswell as wood filled. I primed the Pine paneling and painted skirting satin brilliant white, then walls with a light shade pink Acrylic based paint. Then taped up panelling area and painted dark pink Acrylic paint again, gave it two coats then 20 mins after last coat pulled it and not to my delight, see pics... Looking for help as carpet needs fitted in 2 days, I could hand paint it tonight no issues but it's the tape that's definitely pulled paint off but would like to use it again or a diff sort...was green frog tape (which worked brilliantly against the white satin and lighter pink walls to skirting... Cheers Aidan

Pls see pics... Got 10mm copper flow and return pipes, have standard lockshield valves and want to replace to TRVs. Will the one in pic (Screwfix) work? I see it's 15mm but think it comes with a 10mm reducer for the copper pipe... Also, if I drain my central heating system (as have a few of these to fit while renovating rooms) and don't plan to use central heating can I still shower and run hot water for bath/basin etc? It's a combi boiler and currently on the switch for hot water only, won't switch it to hot water and central heating... Cheers, Aidan.

Worth mentioning I would like to use the crawl space loft for storage, nothing delicate would go up there for storage. That's probably another topic tho

Cheers for you're tips, I get you now with the foam top/sides/bottom then can plaster it. See the current set up is studs and plasterboard so when I replace it I'll possibly add a slightly thicker stud (room for insulation) and plasterboard as I'm happy with the space even if loose a tiny bit with bigger studs. The ceiling is quite high I thought this too but happy with the height...if get up the small crawl space loft above it and add plenty insulation. Will height of the garage be an issue regarding moisture/mould in future? Regards to sucking air out the house...I understand you're point just don't see how I could do it as the garage is about 2.5m off the gable end of our house, plus that's a path to back garden...also even if was a way it's into the living with closest room? I will keep my eye on the garage door next heavy rain fall but had a rough check and seemed no sign of previous water ingress. Thanks for you're tips I appreciate anyone's input with some knowledge behind them

Thanks for input, definitely going to remove all the plasterboard, new studs and insulate so mind made on that one. Just looking for air control tips and appreciate you're comment with the fan. I will put and extractor fan in the loft with ducting leading from ceiling vent to external loft wall...as plan to do a lot of sawing in there in future for things like MDF wardrobes, fances, decking etc...allows me to work if raining which 90% the time it is. I know ventilation is good for getting stale air out and fresh in but just don't want it freezing...seems pointless. Heard 2 vents in opposite walls for a cross air flow, and 2 on top for warm air to escape...open to suggestions

Btw, closed cell expanding foam...would it still be needed if when I replace plasterboard I plan to skim it all anyway...so closing where the boards meet with scrim and plaster

Thanks Nick, the more I look at it the more I think the same strip it back to the breeze block and do it right, I'm thinking down the line fresh studs, insulate then plasterboard it, that way I can place sockets where I like as well as right now they are randomly on the wall. This garage is unheated btw and won't be heated, would you recommend using a vapour barrier over the insulation before plasterboard?...heard mixed opinions about trapping moisture etc. As with vents on opposite walls high and low for cross airflow and letting cool air in bottom for warmer air to escape through top...you reckon a lot of the air coming in would be carrying moisture and not really do much good? I do want it done right so will rip it all down but rather get everything on paper with regards to vents, vapor barrier, insulation etc etc. do it properly once like you say

Hi People, Looking for some tips, moving into a new home in a week, got a detached Garage with a proper apex roof. The garage itself is doubled bricked (outer house brick, air gap then breeze block) wooden studs and plasterboarded. I'll attach pictures...but the garage seems decent enough for what I'm looking for i.e. store all my tools, a basic home gym, a ceiling hung punch bag and general storage I.e. lawn mower, strimmer, bikes etc. I live in Scotland, near Glasgow and want to control the humidity in the garage as don't want tools to be moisture damaged in future, also looking to use this garage as a work area to cut timber for any DIY down the line and would be ideal to leave timber in the garage during renovation but don't want it to become damaged with the moisture. You can see in the pics that it looks to be rusted screw/nails showing through the plasterboard? Obviously moisture has got to these but I'm looking to control it so any tips. I have noticed the garage has two lower vents to the west side ( that's the prevailing wind in this area). And the current owner has taped one up which I imagine is to stop drafts maybe. I know since being built (2001 roughly, all new build estate houses along with the garage) the owner had put new front doors to make it more air tight so think Air circulation may be a big factor? Was looking to uncover the 1 out of two current lower vents and add another two opposite wall for air flow, also adding one high vent each side (west and east) as I know warm air rises...so thinking this would give good air flow and get humid air moving? Looking to put an extractor fan in aswell on ceiling in the center so it sits in the loft with ducting (mainly for when cutting wood or using the gym). These air vents are obviously good for airing the room but wondering about temperature as would no doubt get cold, similar temp to outside and I hear a damp house is a cold house, so just looking for any suggestions. I don't want to put heaters in as such a waste of money for wat I plan to use the space for. Dehumidifiers seem good but are they necessary if proper ventilation? Cheers guys.

Thanks mate, definitely going to get trickle vents sorted and I'll keep windows open aswell, will try this above method to get fresh air moving through and old out... cheers mate

Thanks for responding, very helpful. I'd it possible to add trickle vents to current windows? Also doors are a bit tight especially at the bottom so may remove and plane for a good gap. Getting a ln oil radiator for the hall so there's some heat. The fan for the bathroom there is none although I tend to keep the window open and bathroom door closed, especially while taking a shower...is this good enough as if like to try the rest out before adding bathroom fan, just be a pain to install and the height of the building too etc.

Sorry there was one trickle vent in one of the windows but looks as if it was added...is it possible to add a trickle vent to a window?

Hi guys, looking for some help here. I love in a top flat, my rooms have some signs of mould/damp on them(see pictures, hopefully they uploaded). All the walls the mould forms on are the internal walls of the external end of the building. Looking to renovate I.e paint, coving etc but I'd rather stop the mould/damp. Any ideas?? I have placed some cheap dehumidifiers around, will a plug in one at a better quality be a good idea? Also windows have the trickle vents open all the time for air flow. Will adding some heat to the house help this? Cheers guys, hopefully get some tips.

Mould inside bedroom probably caused by water streaks from the gutter/roof. Best way to treat after gutter area inspected and fixed? Any special Paints or damp proof seals recommended?

Back of building gutter isn't attached to down pipe

Front of building. See the water streaks from gutter... potentially blocked or not flush to the slates.

So I've had a look at the outside walls...front and back, what you guys reckon for the cracks? I see one of the bedroom walls has a bit of mould in the corner and can see water streak marks from gutter outside so that solves that, also see gutter at back of building isn't attached so will get on this. But for cracks any ideas guys? Been told to scrape away excess and fill the cracks with toupret flex then sand as they say this will cope alot more with movement in the building. (See comments for pics...)

New to the app mate, I put them in the comments if you scroll up you will see them