AidanGee93

Worth mentioning I would like to use the crawl space loft for storage, nothing delicate would go up there for storage. That's probably another topic tho

Cheers for you're tips, I get you now with the foam top/sides/bottom then can plaster it. See the current set up is studs and plasterboard so when I replace it I'll possibly add a slightly thicker stud (room for insulation) and plasterboard as I'm happy with the space even if loose a tiny bit with bigger studs. The ceiling is quite high I thought this too but happy with the height...if get up the small crawl space loft above it and add plenty insulation. Will height of the garage be an issue regarding moisture/mould in future? Regards to sucking air out the house...I understand you're point just don't see how I could do it as the garage is about 2.5m off the gable end of our house, plus that's a path to back garden...also even if was a way it's into the living with closest room? I will keep my eye on the garage door next heavy rain fall but had a rough check and seemed no sign of previous water ingress. Thanks for you're tips I appreciate anyone's input with some knowledge behind them

Thanks for input, definitely going to remove all the plasterboard, new studs and insulate so mind made on that one. Just looking for air control tips and appreciate you're comment with the fan. I will put and extractor fan in the loft with ducting leading from ceiling vent to external loft wall...as plan to do a lot of sawing in there in future for things like MDF wardrobes, fances, decking etc...allows me to work if raining which 90% the time it is. I know ventilation is good for getting stale air out and fresh in but just don't want it freezing...seems pointless. Heard 2 vents in opposite walls for a cross air flow, and 2 on top for warm air to escape...open to suggestions

Btw, closed cell expanding foam...would it still be needed if when I replace plasterboard I plan to skim it all anyway...so closing where the boards meet with scrim and plaster

Thanks Nick, the more I look at it the more I think the same strip it back to the breeze block and do it right, I'm thinking down the line fresh studs, insulate then plasterboard it, that way I can place sockets where I like as well as right now they are randomly on the wall. This garage is unheated btw and won't be heated, would you recommend using a vapour barrier over the insulation before plasterboard?...heard mixed opinions about trapping moisture etc. As with vents on opposite walls high and low for cross airflow and letting cool air in bottom for warmer air to escape through top...you reckon a lot of the air coming in would be carrying moisture and not really do much good? I do want it done right so will rip it all down but rather get everything on paper with regards to vents, vapor barrier, insulation etc etc. do it properly once like you say

Hi People, Looking for some tips, moving into a new home in a week, got a detached Garage with a proper apex roof. The garage itself is doubled bricked (outer house brick, air gap then breeze block) wooden studs and plasterboarded. I'll attach pictures...but the garage seems decent enough for what I'm looking for i.e. store all my tools, a basic home gym, a ceiling hung punch bag and general storage I.e. lawn mower, strimmer, bikes etc. I live in Scotland, near Glasgow and want to control the humidity in the garage as don't want tools to be moisture damaged in future, also looking to use this garage as a work area to cut timber for any DIY down the line and would be ideal to leave timber in the garage during renovation but don't want it to become damaged with the moisture. You can see in the pics that it looks to be rusted screw/nails showing through the plasterboard? Obviously moisture has got to these but I'm looking to control it so any tips. I have noticed the garage has two lower vents to the west side ( that's the prevailing wind in this area). And the current owner has taped one up which I imagine is to stop drafts maybe. I know since being built (2001 roughly, all new build estate houses along with the garage) the owner had put new front doors to make it more air tight so think Air circulation may be a big factor? Was looking to uncover the 1 out of two current lower vents and add another two opposite wall for air flow, also adding one high vent each side (west and east) as I know warm air rises...so thinking this would give good air flow and get humid air moving? Looking to put an extractor fan in aswell on ceiling in the center so it sits in the loft with ducting (mainly for when cutting wood or using the gym). These air vents are obviously good for airing the room but wondering about temperature as would no doubt get cold, similar temp to outside and I hear a damp house is a cold house, so just looking for any suggestions. I don't want to put heaters in as such a waste of money for wat I plan to use the space for. Dehumidifiers seem good but are they necessary if proper ventilation? Cheers guys.

Thanks mate, definitely going to get trickle vents sorted and I'll keep windows open aswell, will try this above method to get fresh air moving through and old out... cheers mate

Thanks for responding, very helpful. I'd it possible to add trickle vents to current windows? Also doors are a bit tight especially at the bottom so may remove and plane for a good gap. Getting a ln oil radiator for the hall so there's some heat. The fan for the bathroom there is none although I tend to keep the window open and bathroom door closed, especially while taking a shower...is this good enough as if like to try the rest out before adding bathroom fan, just be a pain to install and the height of the building too etc.

Sorry there was one trickle vent in one of the windows but looks as if it was added...is it possible to add a trickle vent to a window?

Hi guys, looking for some help here. I love in a top flat, my rooms have some signs of mould/damp on them(see pictures, hopefully they uploaded). All the walls the mould forms on are the internal walls of the external end of the building. Looking to renovate I.e paint, coving etc but I'd rather stop the mould/damp. Any ideas?? I have placed some cheap dehumidifiers around, will a plug in one at a better quality be a good idea? Also windows have the trickle vents open all the time for air flow. Will adding some heat to the house help this? Cheers guys, hopefully get some tips.

Mould inside bedroom probably caused by water streaks from the gutter/roof. Best way to treat after gutter area inspected and fixed? Any special Paints or damp proof seals recommended?

Back of building gutter isn't attached to down pipe

Front of building. See the water streaks from gutter... potentially blocked or not flush to the slates.

So I've had a look at the outside walls...front and back, what you guys reckon for the cracks? I see one of the bedroom walls has a bit of mould in the corner and can see water streak marks from gutter outside so that solves that, also see gutter at back of building isn't attached so will get on this. But for cracks any ideas guys? Been told to scrape away excess and fill the cracks with toupret flex then sand as they say this will cope alot more with movement in the building. (See comments for pics...)

New to the app mate, I put them in the comments if you scroll up you will see them

I'll get a picture of outside walls Tomo mate. These pictures tho...one with the skirting board showing is a partition wall separating living room from hall. Other pic is living Room and external building wall to the left of it and to the right the neighbouring flat

It's a flat but he's top flat, that's what I plan to do see about anything blocking gutters etc, tbh I think the damp can be ruled out had another look tonight but appreciate the feedback about movement. Any tips to dealing with it? You reckon Render mesh would help and once blended in at least be more hidden that the eye sore that's there?

I also noticed the walls look a different shade so Mabey it's to do with damp? I don't know tho

Brother recently bought his first house so just going to give rooms a lick of fresh paint for now but living room has a few cracks at top of wall just below ceiling (will post pics in the comment section). Looking for reasons as to why this happened and how to treat...was thinking scrape of loose paint, apply bonding plaster with render mesh, then top coat multi finish plaster and blend it into existing plaster? Any other suggestions welcome.

I think what is must be is some of the slabs are bigger spacings than the others so possibly just the shallow gaps thats no took well. I'll try again with a little SBR in it tho point it compacted... hopefully works out....happy with the bulk of it

Hi all, looking for some advice here... Got an old patio that was laid on soil and sand years back, took the weeds out and pressure washed and patio is solid no movement but repointed to stop any weeds coming through...some gaps are a bit more than others with some gaps smaller (patio laid on a slope so shifted over years but like I say solid no shifting now). I made a pointing mix of 2 parts builders sand 1 part cement and added a tiny amount of Feb mix...zero water was added but the consistentcy of the mix I could squeeze into a ball without it crumbling so heard that's ideal. Brushed the mix into gaps and compressed quite deep with a finger pointing tool, repeated and then finished with a smoothing pointer before moving to next slabs. After finished due to the following days being dry I lightly mist coated the area and done this 2x per day for the following days. This was done start of September so temperatures were good. Overall I'd say about 85% of the repoints are solid. The other 15% it's as if the mix has dried and lifted as slight bounce in it where it's not adhered to...not sure why that's happened but any tips? I've been suggested go 3:1 for next mix add Feb mix only tiny amount aswell as a little SBR as ideal for outside work. Remove loose mortar, dust etc and repoint? Any other tips or your thoughts as to why the repoints lifted would be great. (Will post pics)