boxrick

I am in the process of sarking my roof with Steico Universal 22mm wood fibre boards. One thing I am trying to decide is the best approach for the roof membrane. My joiner is currently on site and plans to staple the membrane on top of the sarking boards as he goes. The alternative is to leave this step for the roofer when he arrives, which would mean potentially fewer staple penetrations in the membrane but means I have to wait longer to be watertight Any thoughts around this?

In respect of EWI? That's likely the material I'll have to go with for EWI anyway above DPC.

120EWI all the way around with a combination of either render or cladding finish.

I've recently sacked my builder. Whilst trying to fix some issues he left behind I remember someone commenting on my DPC Tray at the bottom of my walls. They are either sagging or flat. Id like some thoughts about how serious this is and what I should do?

I am in the process of rebuilding my roof and one of the roofers I had out is recommending Kytun dry valleys. My current materials are already on order from Henshaws and include ( see pic attached at bottom for specifics ) Tiles & T&Hs Tile Vents Ridges Dry Ridge Kit Dry Upstand Valleys Felt Support Trays Dry Verge Tile Nails My house amongst trees in a forested and moss prone environment with lots of leaf fall. Are Kytun Valleys worth it in a leafy mossy area? Do they shed debris well, resist moss build up compared with mortarless valley troughs? Are they compatible with Sandtoft 20/20 tiles? Any issues with battens, valley board requirements etc? Any recommendations for Kytun model to choose for 20/20s and any ends or connectors I should order? Install and detailing: Eaves and ridge junction details for Kytun valleys Jointing between lengthsm gaps and any particular recommended fixings? Any recommended leaf guards, things to stop birds? If Kytun is the better route, I plan to return the generic valley troughs and order the Kytun equivalents. Anyone who has advice, experience or even some pictures to share would be great!

Sadly much of this build is a mixture of old and new. Knowing what I know now, should have just knocked down the entire building and started fresh. This is an old section of wall. Here is the lintels I bought, that particular one is 3.3m for a 3m gap so should have 150mm on either side but will measure and check.

I went out and bought 750mm of fresh steel the same size. Gonna chop it off and extend out as far as we need then take the end off. I have also had to take over everything, so toilet, H&S stuff, I have secured the site properly now, got acros so we can drop a wall, bought step ladders and cleaned everything up. The old builder has also taken all his stuff off site now. These padstones will need resetting to the correct positions, but we are going to raise these beams up a little bit and have come up with a plan from Pasquill. The joiners have found loads of bits such as the wallplate etc 50mm out the posijoist centres were also wider than the max 600 in many places. So basically we need a reset, gone back to basics. Measured everything and starting fresh from the previous disaster. Just throwing trades some day rates right now to get this all sorted. One of the supporting walls for these valleys was just floating without any return on it. Only held in position by some cavity ties to the outside skin. Gonna drop this and re-build it and join the cavities and add the return in. Then loads of blockwork is still crap, gonna get the new brickies to repoint all this rubbish. The joiners have made me a so we have a nice dry area, taken down the crap posis and valleys. Measured everything and we have just got the ladders up so the bricklayer and finish up all the gable ends on Monday.

Cheers for the help everyone... got people lined up. Joiners are on site now fixing up / measuring. Brickies and welders coming next week. Should have things fixed up in no time hopefully.

And the bottom of many of the posis

So some progress today. I've been working with a consultant who has been helping me with air tightness, MVHR and such. When this nonsense started we came up with a plan between us and the help from the kind people here. Today the consultant travelled to up to site and we got the steels / posis down with the help of a couple of joiners. I had a big site tidy up, we gently sent him on his way and now things can move forwards. Cheers for the help guys. Site secure, all his stuff safely ready to take away, I'm all insured up and I'll take on this principle contractor role myself...

Thanks for the advice, my "issue" here is my builder will almost certainly attempt to remediate these issues. See that as a problem or not but I have already tried to terminate him twice with me simply stating he cannot go near my roof and he is like one of those little seeds that sticks to your leg. Obviously I have had no help along the way to help me terminate, I am happy to deal with the financial part of this. I would rather him just not continue at this point. I don't think he s done a full house build before ( thats clear from my pictures ). So he wants it for his portfolio

No one is faultless, there has been changes in plans and he has dealt with me amicably. But I have done my best to mitigate this by letting him know immediately and providing updated plans and drawings. It shouldn't excuse him for the current shoddy work. But if I am raising any dispute, I think I have to provide clear examples of where has let me down to show that this was the last straw. I have just taken ownership of the scaffolding, got them to come and inspect it / tag it. And have paid for a further 2 weeks so thats all up-to-date and just sorted site insurance. So regardless hopefully I am a little more covered as I progress.

Here are my thoughts of a message / email: I want to make my position fully clear and address some points about documentation and changes to plans. Throughout the project, whenever plans or specifications have changed, I have made you aware as early as possible and shared all updated documentation without delay. Any differences from previous versions were always clearly highlighted, and I sent emails to confirm and explain these changes. On several occasions I also noticed you were working from outdated plans or documents, and I pulled this up immediately to prevent further mistakes. To ensure there was no confusion, I paid my architect to update plans professionally, and I shared these updated documents with you at the earliest opportunity. Additional works from these I have bore the payment for, and I have never asked for any favours or reductions in cost for genuine mistakes or additional work you had to undertake. Any changes as you highlighted are often you just not working to the architects specifications, and the majority of these items have never changed. In addition to the previously mentioned issues with the roof, DPM and insulation, there have been other significant problems on site, including: Charging me for remedial work required due to your own errors, some of which is still unresolved and now my responsibility to fix. Knocking down a wall by mistake and then charging me for rebuilding it. Poor quality blockwork and general workmanship. Building walls in incorrect locations, which I had to raise and have corrected. Failing to prepare for the DNO electricity main relocation despite multiple warnings, causing delays and extra cost. Improper installation of the water meter, which I then had to have rectified last minute at my own expense. Failing to secure the site, with scaffolding left open and untagged, and put onto a neighbour’s land without permission and all over the pavement without the permission of the pavement owners. These are not minor snags but ongoing breaches and poor practices, despite my efforts to provide accurate, timely information. I have comprehensive pictures at every stage and am happy to share as needed. Given all of this: I will take full responsibility for the roof works from now on. You will have no further involvement or liability for the roof. It is just too important and I need to have full confidence it is built to a high standard We can proceed with the brick works as quoted, paid on satisfactory completion only. Once those works are complete, I will re evaluate and decide how or if we continue with any further work. I trust this sets out my position. Please confirm you understand and agree, or let me know if you wish to discuss anything further. Regards, Rick

See contract with any details omitted here. Ill hopefully be getting SE report soon and rectification, since we are now going to address a few further issues and get the steel completely finalised. ommited.pdf

I met the builder on site yesterday and to date he has not apologised once for this roof mess he is still blaming Pasquill etc, despite that when things were unclear all he needed to do was stop. I put to him about just walking away, ill take on the responsibility (costs) of fixing this roof and bear the cost we shake hands and finish it and he can walk away. But he constantly keeps shifting blame to me, saying he can put it right, guilt me etc. There have been changes, but often to resolve him ignoring architect notes or drawings. The only significant change is changing from a raised tie truss roof to a vaulted roof. If you search my recent posts here, you will see a small selection of what I have tried to fix. Regardless here are some final messages which appeared at 6am this morning to share what I am dealing with, the constant mental gymnastics going on here is screwing with my head.

I am currently waiting for Structural Engineer to share a report. But Pasquill gave me quite a comprehensive email but in summary: They have confirmed that the main issue on my site is that the steel valley beams have been set in the wrong position and at the wrong angle, they should not go through the internal corner as built and need offsetting a little this means the pitch is out by one degree. This has also caused the problems with the fascia and soffit lines. Pasquill say the Posi rafters already fitted may still usable if the beams are moved to the correct positions, though if any hidden cuts are worse than visible they may need replacing. If I do decide to replace the 12 rafters sitting on the valley, Pasquill have offered to supply new ones at a very reasonable price for me ( Which I have said yes to ). The next step is to fully dismiss the builder, take ownership of site. I have found a good joiner to come sort the posis, and will just await the SE to give me a plan of action for these steels.

Cheers for the help and thoughts guys. Got my SE and Pasquill ( roof manufacturer ) coming tomorrow. I've made the builder cease and spoke to some folks today to help me get straight again. Also have some other potential avenues to get water tight. I'll await these reports then I'll crack on from there.

To add to this, the valley beam which has the posis rested on it, it's been welded at the bottom with this thing. So perhaps not as bad as it initially looked, but still far from ideal.

Thanks for the reply folks. Not much I can do due to it being weekend, but I'll prepare my pictures and written stuff and contact SE, roof designer and maybe BC on Monday. I'll have to tell him at some point before that work needs to stop. The unfortunate thing is I've been waiting 3 months for electricity north west to come. They are due on site Monday to start digging and I've got scaffolding in the way the builder was going to move. So I'm going to have a fun week..

Yea this is the same guy One picture I didn't share is they have also just cut this steel. It's one of the valley beams. It's not in any SE plans or similar.

Honestly don't know whats going on with the brightness of these. Lets try again:

So... after much pain and agony my posi joists have arrived. I paid a lot of money for all my hangers and correct fittings, yet they seem to have been drilled into oblivion and the ends cut up. This document states that they shouldn't be drilled, notched etc. https://www.mitek.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/sites/23/2018/10/WoPT-Issue-7-2.pdf I'll get more pictures tomorrow, but I would like some immediate thoughts. I am a little bit upset with this right now... From the POV of a layman: You can see where they drilled them in just to get the positioning and they have drilled them in so hard the wood has split a chunk off the middle On this same positioning drilling the end piece has actually gone at an angle as its pulled each part away They have drilled so much on some pieces it looks like it has been mangled with a hacksaw Angles and big notches have been taken out, chunks out the top and bottom Random drilling constantly all over I'll contact the manufacturer on Monday, but from my POV this looks like absolute shit.

In the end for future searches I went for 'Sandtoft 20/20 Antique Slate' which are clay slight like and dark. Ideal for a shallow pitch, and got them delivered in a few hours by henshawsroofandbuild for about 7k including batons, ridge and valleys etc. Will update here with pics as they get installed.

Originally my architect specified Tapco or similar for my roof. However due to some changes in my plans my roof is now much stronger and I can basically have anything. With that in mind for around 140-150 square meters of 19 - 23 degree pitch roof. What would be a good option? It would be nice to get the whole roof for under 10k Thoughts?

Price wise the Sarking boards are about £200 more expensive ( for my whole roof ) than OSB3. Roof designer feels they are probably fine, and my builder too. I guess for that much it makes sense to simply get them ordered. I got a quote of £1550 for 120 boards delivered (Steico Universal 22mm 600x2230mm wood fibre sarking board) which feels pretty reasonable and I can have them by Wednesday this week so no real delays. Solitex Plus looks excellent too. I guess its a little higher spec than Proctor Roofshield?