boxrick

For anyone browsing this in the future these BG electric ones are fantastic. Really thick and nice, not many holes. Highly recommended. At £2 ish each also not much more over the plastic junk. I should have never really been put in this position let alone having to cut all these out, but at least these are a nice solution

Thanks, I'll buy both sets and see which works better. Maybe foam the buggery out of them too

Hello folks! I am currently trying to acoustically all my back boxes which with metal ones is quite straightforwards. I put caulking around the edges, pop the cable through and then add my acoustic putty to the back as shown below. The issue is with 'fast fix' boxes which have been liberally used all over. Which sadly until I was plastered didn't realise had been used so far through my build. They are littered everywhere which is very unfortunate since we literally had open studs and could have used metal ones everywhere. Anyway, right now this is presenting me a real issue since I cannot install pattresses and install the standard metal ones, I cannot add wood to the sides to screw from the front into since I am plastered. Does anyone have any suggestions? Simply put I need to get the backboxes in and fixed solid which will then allow me to 'finish' around the edges, backs and side with my acoustic seal and putty and it not move again. I am thinking some of these may do the trick which seem to have a spring which lightly clamps them in until the faceplate is installed? Or is there any available with ratcheting type lugs? Or maybe foaming the boxes in? https://www.builderdepot.co.uk/bg-2-gang-47mm-fire-rated-dry-lining-box-hgs07-fr

A small bump here.. I have cemfloor. I am about to paint mist coat and want to seal the floor. Will be a final finish of carpet / tiles / laminate depending on room. I am thinking a watered down ( 1/3 or 1/4 SBR ) and maybe a couple of coats to seal the floor?

I have passed this new info onto Norssken. Just awaiting a reply now..

You can see the frequency here which is almost completely unblocked. This is what is leading to the 'whoosing' sound. The blue is fully open and the red is closed. You can hear how hollow the door sounds in the centre, this is where most of the sound is coming through:

My friend brought round a really decent calibration microphone and we measured different scenarios against a baseline. In the 1.5khz range there is basically 0 attenuation. The door is actually rated at 33db in sound reduction. But even the difference between the most drastic sound reduction is well below this. I'll share some graphs shortly. Also as you knock along the skin of the door, some bits are completely dead and others sound completely hollow. I'll share some more info when I'm at my laptop.

Interestingly enough my friend does have a decent one, he was wondering around last week. But we didn't concentrate on the door

Traffic noise I believe is the issue, but it's a high pitched sound which is basically created by the panel of the door. The sound is obviously coming right through the leaf. I wouldn't expect the Marmox material to make it worse given its mostly just insulation. I've got it in all the reveals for every window and they are generally fine.

With this gently in front of the door. The majorly of the whistle is gone. Even if the door is open it's miles quieter with this random stack of Rockwool

MVHR isn't running yet I've taped fully around the edges with masking tape and also ran a piece of paper all the way around with it shut. It's tight everywhere. It just sounds like it's coming right through the leaf. Also if you knock on it, it almost sounds hollow

Hello folks! I have gone to fairly extreme lengths to make sure sound doesn't come into my property which included buying Norrsken triple glazed windows / slider / front door. I have filled literally every gap you could imagine in the property. However my front door is like a massive amplifier. Its actually noiser with it closed than open. See attached video show the problems and some pictures of the detailing around the door, but I would love some advice. I believe that if I had simply gone for a glazed door as per my windows I wouldn't be hearing this sound. I have gone back to Norrsken support and waiting on a response. The sound is absolutely coming directly through the leaf of the door the surrounds and roof is silent.

Hello folks. A simple question, my plasterer is booked in. There is still a lot of boarding to do. Simply put should I get a room plastered whilst still fitting boards in other rooms? Or will the dust ruin my finish?

Hello folks I'm about to fully membrane my ceiling before my cellulose insulation goes in. Simply put I've watched a few videos about membraning. My joiners were going to do it, but I reckon myself and my girlfriend can do a better job. With that in mind, can anyone share any resources or tips for me to get this right?

Hello! I'm just about to get the tiling finished on my new clay tile roof. On my previous concrete tile roof moss was always a problem since I'm surrounded by trees. Simply put is there any good solution I can do now whilst it's still mostly new to help stop moss growth?

Mad rush to screwfix. I got a few ducts in one location but not the other... threw them in as they were pouring the screed. Better than nothing..

What would you hold it down with? I'm worried it will float. Also got potential crossing of UFH

Hello folks. I have around 250mm of insulation with some water pipes underneath and UFH pipes installed on top. I've just realised I need networking / power and speaker cable to next to my sofas and kitchen island. See above pictures, do I panic cancel the screed company who are due at 9 or is there something I can do in a few hours before they arrive?

The roofer suggested lead valleys too. Think that's probably the way forwards! Cheers for the extra input.

Hello folks. I have a roofer due to come today and I ordered a "closed dry valley" system. My worry is I'm surrounded by trees and this will get clogged and full of junk. I can get something like this GRP open dry valley locally and collected easily or I can opt for something like a Kytun Aluminium valley which will take 2 weeks to come. https://www.travisperkins.co.uk/fibreglass-valleys/danelaw-group-tile-valley-trough-grey-380mm-x-3m-rp3/p/915427 I can't really see the valleys from ground level so this is all about performance. Any thoughts on what I should do?

Hello folks! A quick sanity check. Norrsken want quite a sum of money ( it will be around £1200 inc vat on around 10 windows / doors ) Simply put should I leave it to them or do it myself? I am guessing there is a few hundred pounds worth of tape there. Norssken use 'Elite Installations' to do their installs.

I have a quote from guttercrest. You got some pictures of the finished product?

Got any pics? Happy with finish?

Hello folks! I am in the process of renovating my bungalow. Got lots of posts here but I am wondering if I should use anyone in particular for my aluminium downpipes / gutters / soffits and fascias? I will be going for Basalt Grey - RAL7012 These are the companies who have quoted so far and prices coming back in the 6-10k range for everything. https://www.marleyalutec.co.uk/products/ https://www.guttercrest.co.uk/downpipes/ https://alugutter.co.uk/collections/aluminium-guttering Anyone have any thoughts or recommendations?

I am in the process of sarking my roof with Steico Universal 22mm wood fibre boards. One thing I am trying to decide is the best approach for the roof membrane. My joiner is currently on site and plans to staple the membrane on top of the sarking boards as he goes. The alternative is to leave this step for the roofer when he arrives, which would mean potentially fewer staple penetrations in the membrane but means I have to wait longer to be watertight Any thoughts around this?