YorkieSelfBuild

No but it's similar to other hobs. Not sure if "ducted" means external or recirculating. But I didn't know these ducts reduce noise levels. I had thought they weren't necessary but now I'll look for one that will fit. Thanks!

Like Torre's idea, I can't go deeper with the island but there's a 42mm service void. Waiting for confirmation it's twice that with back to back units and if it's the same for shelves and drawers units Also waiting for DIY Kitchens support to tell me how big is the internal gap behind drawers to backing board.

I can't go deeper, need clearance next to dining table, but making the middle unit the smallest available is a possible idea, thanks!

Hi, I'm having trouble finding a downdraft recirculating extractor induction hob to fit regular British units in an island. I had planned a 80cm hob but they all require lots of room underneath the worktop. I can widen the unit to 1000mm to handle width and height under the worktop isn't an issue, as I know there's some unusable space. The real problem is depth from the front of the worktop to the back. DIY Kitchens base units are 560 but most hobs need 480-600mm plus a 25-100mm gap for venting, with or without a duct, down the back then underneath to the front plinth which will have a cutout. The attached image is just one model. Do other kitchen companies make deeper units? I can change from drawers to shelves but I'm still limited to 560. I thought they're 600 deep so is there a 40mm void? Do I sacrifice the units on the back of the island? So they mirror the front but have only shallow cupboard units on each end with a dummy panel behind the hob unit? Any suggestions are welcome! The alternative is a smaller 72cm hob, I've seen the Elica NikolaTesla FIT, but I would really prefer 4 full size pan areas (plates, burners or whatever you call them 😄)

So I had a chat about conduits with the builder and he's suggested some conduits but only straight sections and having some end underneath floors for future use. I'm not completely sure what he meant, might ask for a layout drawing, as still need to decide where the ethernet ports should go. I might have to settle for that due to budget and time constraints as 1st fix is starting soon. I guess some conduits is better than nothing

Did you use flexible or rigid tubing? I'm limited to only 25mm max. I was thinking of flexible ENT tubing unless rigid is better?

That won't work as I'm planning glue down LVT upstairs and tiles downstairs. Could I add access ports in plasterboard walls instead?

Yeah, someone suggested Tufflex elsewhere. A lot more expensive than flexible ENT tubing I was thinking of

Builder says maximum 25mm conduits in floor and wall voids. Their previous experience is it's hard even from road to house with 40mm semi rigid ducting, with draw cord getting stuck. I'll have to ask if they've tried it inside the house. I gather he's only using a sparky, not cabling engineer, so maybe not very experienced.

No flooring or ceilings finished, or even interval walls. Still shell stage.

Hi, how difficult is it to install conduits to feed ethernet cables through? It's a new self build house, no internal walls yet so I thought it's a no brainer to get it right now to make it easier to replace damaged or upgrade cables in future. My builder says it wouldn't work going through floors, corners, studs and joists. It's too cramped and they've failed to pull cables in other residential projects. A data cabling installer said you can't pull round corners or angle boxes so you'd need to cut into floors and walls to access them. Are they right?

I'm going to start another thread for data conduits, as I got my answer on WAP or mesh. Thanks all

Is having conduits so unusual? I found another installer, actually electrician finding but website says data cabling, and he said "I’ve never known conduits in modern day homes"?!

Great comments so far, really helpful. Does anyone know/recommend any data cabling installers in Sheffield who would consider internal conduits? I need 2nd opinion and more quotes to see what I need to budget for.

Yep, saw a YT video with EZ plugs. No punchdown needed

Probably true. I'll have another word, ask for quotes. Also try and find another installer who will consider conduits

I did initially think of internal conduits, some with just a builders line to pull cables through when I actually start to install cable or upgrade later, but that idea was shot down as told pulling cables is hard. How have you've been able to do that? Are they straight ducts, no bends?

Ok, sticking WAP, not mesh. I'll need to make sure cable layout works with that. Cat6a can go further than cat6's 37-55m limit for peak speeds but I think 37m will easily cover a 9 x 5m 3 floor house. Or am I wrong? DIYing the terminations seems to be the way, lots of resources online, but I have questions about that. 1. If I don't terminate immediately after cables are laid, I can't test if they work or have been damaged. Is that a big risk? 2. Do you terminate cables after they're laid, up a ladder for ceiling APs and outdoor cameras? Thanks for all comments so far

What do people think if I get installer to terminate just a few cables for immediate use then I can buy tools and parts to DIY later as needed? I think current prices are £100-120 per connection point, which adds up quickly! Go for it or is it hard and tricky to get right?

Looking at UniFi U6+ or U6Pro, for budget reasons and I don't have Wi-Fi 7 devices yet. Also thanks for warning about TP-Link. Now thinking 2F bedroom and 1F landing, instead of inside both bedrooms on 1F as house only 9m x 5m. 1F AP should reach GF or use router as it'll be in GF plant cupboard.

Hi, currently thinking of my home network in new self build. Spark can lay cables (likely cat6) but not experienced in terminating them. So I've asked a local data cable installer for a proposal for cabling to a data cabinet with patch panel, switch panel and router plus lots of ethernet connections for TV, PC, bedrooms, cameras, PV inverter, etc. For mobile devices using Wi-Fi, I was thinking wireless access points connected to PoE in each bedroom ceiling (router on GF so maybe no need). But he said that's the same as a Mesh system if all units are wired and they're expensive. A quick Google and it seems AP isn't the same as mesh, else why there's so many "AP Vs mesh" results? Something like this TP-Link EAP653 WiFi 6 Access Point, Three Pack £210 (can I reclaim VAT?) whereas Wi-Fi 7 mesh systems are £400+ https://www.broadbandbuyer.com/products/46108-tp-link-eap653-3 Am I barking up the wrong tree or is there another solution?

Yep, thanks. Kerakoll Active Prime Fix is applied diluted then neat, 2nd at right angles. Would you dry lay before or after it's prime? I think it'd be ok afterwards as tiles are clean

Architect agreed to not prime until it's dry, said cost of using Protecta boards is same as primer.

I've heard of Ozin. Was looking at Tilemaster but some things are discontinued. So currently it'll be Kerakoll Active Prime Fix primer, Kerakoll Biogel No Limits to lay Ditra mat and Kerakoll Standard Set Setaflex to lay tiles. Then Tilemaster Grout 3000 and TileMaster Silicon 3000 to finish.

That's more like my spec, sand early on then long gap before priming because you have to wait for it to be dry enough to tile. Did you put down boards or sheets to cover the screed while people walked and worked over it?