Rick734

Thanks for that @Nickfromwales - apologies for the delay! I've got some STS 12.5mm insulation board - would you normally ply behind that board as well? It does have extremely high compressive strength but maybe not so much 'bending' strength, if that makes sense...

Thanks, got it. Don't think I ever took it out of that noggin (just leant the top half back) so should still be correct. Now onto boarding...

Saw you mentioned it in a previous post and it was on offer in Screwfix so... 🤷 Aha will check that, thanks 👍 - don't remember seeing a lower tab so will check

Thanks @Nickfromwales - super helpful. I think in this case I'll leave them off then - gives me 'access' from the front to the fixing points should I ever need them. Added some Sikaflex EBT and 3 chunky screws down each side, let's see what happens! Hopefully never need to get it out. Great point about the demountable cistern as well - had no idea it was so simple to remove...

To jump on the back of this thread...just installed a Geberit WC frame in my downstairs WC. I did it the wrong way round and built a tight framework first to shoehorn the frame into and then fix, but it works. The only thing is I haven't yet fitted the top 'rail' (Which can be seen on the LHS) - anyone know if this is essential? As far as I can see it doesn't do all that much and prodtrudes out the front by 2-3mm, thereby pushing the backer board off the wall slightly when I fit that, so I was thinking of leaving it out. Thoughts please? Edit: the 'rail' is the blue bit sitting on the floor leaning against the wall, for clarity.

e.g. similar to this image:

@Russell griffiths Images attached - overall porch size is 7.2x2m approx. So pretty small as flat roofs go. Having looked at it last night I think I might go down the route of lifting the ledge plate just enough to get all fixings into the blockwork, and then use a long-leg joist hanger to drop down below the bottom of it to take the roof joists at the right height. Sound sensible?

Potentially, but my understanding of a masonry hanger is that it's bedded in and nailed down through the top, before the brickwork above is laid... so not very feasible?

Just to clarify - the main fixing point for the joist hangers would still be in the main ledger plate, but there'd be a few nails into the bottom fillet piece for stability and extra strength. Id attach that piece of timber with straps/plates or long screws up into the bottom of the actual ledger plate.

Thanks Russell/Save, it is a decent size opening and agreed definitely not ideal to drill into it. Might be able to keep the ledger plate high enough to just fix into the blockwork if I can use long leg joist hangars to drop down to the right level - any idea if that's acceptable? I guess they'd be hanging down off the bottom of the ledger plate by approx 150mm to get the heights right...maybe could fix another piece of timber to the bottom of it for extra strength/rigidity...does that make sense? Something like this:

Thanks, it spans approx 3.6m which is the opening from the porch into the hall. Happy to go the resin route, was just debating the pros and cons of either so thanks.

Morning folks, Hoping for some assistance with this one, I need to bolt a ledger plate to the front wall of the house to take the roof joists for the new porch (which is approx 7m long x 2m deep i.e. not massive roof load). My problem is that at the height I want it, the ledger plate sits partly in front of an existing concrete lintel which I'd need to bolt into (as well as the wall above) to secure the wall plate. Lintel is pretty massive at around 280h and 240d and I'd only need to bolt into the top half of it...anyone know if that's a good idea or alternatively if there's a better solution? You can see most of the height of the lintel below the unfixed wall plate (which needs to drop down a bit further)...

thanks Mike - not sure there's anything short enough for what I need though...

Have you had bad experiences with them? I've talked to one or two pretty experienced plumbers/bathroom fitters who are happy to use them for technical jobs where there's no other solution...

And this is my plan for the waste, unless anyone has a better idea... The wall has to be positioned where it is due to the minimum sizes wanted in each room, so I figure this is the only way I can get both wastes into the main soil pipe. Obviously the two wastes from the WCs are offset, so one is behind the other in the image shown. Not ideal using a flexi but I don't think anything else is going to work for that type of bend - down, turn under the opposite WC frame and then down again into the main soil. Is that workable?

Thanks Onoff - I've already built quite a bit of the wall... so don't want to redo unless I really have to. Originally used 145 as I didn't want to add too much weight or bulk to the whole wall, as I've only just got enough depth in each of the rooms anyway (and I didn't give the plumbing enough thought :)). Figured that if I just boarded off to get the extra depth it might give me more flexibility later (e.g. I could sink the end of the bath into the wall by just trimming the board around it....) But also still need to sort the problem of not having a brace or stud behind one end of the WC frames...

Hello guys, New here so TIA for any help received. Hoping @Nickfromwales can comment on this one, from what I've seen of previous threads as a lurker. So in my house refurb project I have decent size bedroom that I've turned into a bathroom and ensuite. Not massive but big enough. Not sure if the bathroom shower is going to be a bit too much but we'll see. The issue I have is that the sensible layout for both rooms will have the two wall-hung WC frames back-to-back behind each other - slightly offset, but the majority of the frames will be literally back-to-back. I've partially built the wall in 145x45 timber to provide some solidity for the frames and some extra depth - I figured I could get away with a couple of slimline frames plus boarding off one side of the wall in 25mm OSB/ply underneath the tile backer board to give me 20-25mm extra depth. However just trying to figure out if I will be able to fix the frames securely enough, given that one of the top main bolts won't be able to be fixed, as it will be behind the other frame. Obviously I can stick the frame in place, fix sideways and upwards through timbers, etc - will that be enough? I could potentially drill some holes through the top of the frame and bolt them together to share the load (hopefully they're both in use at the same time to balance it out 😆)Hope that makes sense... The wastes are a different story...we'll come onto that shortly...

Hello guys Young guy doing a complete house refurbishment in Plymouth, Devon - here to learn about all things DIY and beyond. I will have questions for you 😁 Thanks in advance!