Bounce

Yes we've stopped, hence checking, and looking to get someone. Just wanted to get an idea on what needs doing, to make sure it's done properly.

I've got a feeling thats what they were. The inner skin will be coming out as part of its a chimney breast, and have to be rebuilt with blocks or something I assume. Is it possible to bond them together if rebuild the inner skin of the section?

Sorry i was meant to say part grey brick and rest render where there is no grey brick. I've attached another photo that's all of the exposed element currently, I will try take a better one tomorrow. Now looking at it the small bricks look like they could have been used to bond the two walls together?

Bottom half will be grey brick and top half will be render. So the grey brick won't be rendered. I've attached a bit of the wall is exposed.

I need some advice on replacing the bricks on the lower half of an external wall on our 1920s home. The top half of the wall is currently rendered, and we eventually plan to re-render the entire house to match a new, lighter aesthetic. Our current focus is on removing the existing red bricks from the bottom half of an external wall and replacing them with light grey bricks. We've noticed a gap of approximately 10mm between the outer brickwork and the inner wall. There's no existing insulation in this gap, so we're planning to add insulating plasterboard to the interior. A significant concern is the apparent absence of wall ties connecting the outer and inner walls. Given these observations, what's the best approach to replacing the bricks? We're particularly interested in understanding if this is a straightforward "swap" of facing bricks, or if more extensive work is required due to the lack of wall ties. The chimney breast on the inner wall is coming out, so the inner wall on the bottom half may also be rebuilt with blocks. Also if there is no wall ties in the bottom half, we don't know about the top half. We are going to have the chimney breast removed from the top half, but may not need to rebuild that part of the wall, not sure at this stage. Our goal is to ensure the job is done correctly when we instruct a professional. Any guidance you can offer would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks appreciate that info.. In regards to saving money, they are supplying all the materials etc, so any additional costs for this, will be paid for by them, I just want to make sure it's all done correctly.

Do you mean photos like this? I will try upload sectional drawings too.

I assume they didn't want to damage the outer bricks, as they came from Germany. Plus they are expensive and take 3-4 weeks to get more.

Thanks all.. I'd spoken to recticel this morning over the phone and email. They've also confirmed in writing that it doesn't look correct. I went armed with this information and the instructions of how to Install this insulation. The building firm we've used, subcontracted the bricklaying out, and our building firm, didn't QC/Oversee it, it took me to notice it. They have agreed to rectify it from tomorrow. I think they are potentially going to take the blocks (inner skin) down and relay them, with the insulation attached properly. Do you think this possible? I've got to meet them again on site tomorrow to go over it what they will be doing.

Thanks. Is that something that can be done without removing the inner or outer skin?

There is a gap here, as they just have cut the tongue off.

Thanks. They are about 2/3 of the way up for the ground floor, still a bit more to go to finish ground floor, then they'll start on the upstairs. This one seems flush against internal wall, but the gap between external wall has snots. Again they've not used cavity clips to hold it tight against the wall, although there isn't any movement, I assume because of the snots.

Can we get a building inspector to check this? I am thinking, if they say its fine, I could suggest getting it checked if they are confident it's ok. If they say it's ok, we carry on, if not they rectify...?

Or they take the outer skin down and start again? Doubt they'll want to do that though..

Could installing insulated plasterboard help? I know it will eat into the room space...

This is video of one of the walls, the internal block wall is on the left... VID-20250311-WA0003.mp4

Thanks, I will try find it and have read. I've printed the instructions off for installation, I need to work out what the best solution is to rectify the existing, and ensure going forward they do this correctly. It's frustrating as they've bought all the materials apart from the clips (which aren't expensive), but just cut corners on the work, which wouldn't have taken much extra time in the grand scheme if things.

Extension to an existing house. We bought it about 2 years ago, but not lived in it yet, waiting until it's fully completed. The builders have done the extension to a close friends house about 5 years ago, and done all the internals, including plumbing, electrics etc and were happy with it. From what we've seen, we also thought ok. But now we are analysing everything and wanting to ensure everything is done properly.

Thank you. The builder said it should be fine... He's outsourced the bricklaying, but i dont think he's QC'ed it. I'm meeting him on site tomorrow, when the bricklayers are back.. I will print this off and ask him to look at it, I'm sure he will agree, that it's not fully to this spec.

There is a gap here due to the insulation from a cross section pushing against this piece.

I think I am going to have to have a chat with the builders. Just trying to arm myself with all the information so I know what I am talking about, otherwise they may just tell me everything is fine.

Thanks, as we are going double storey and they've only built upto just under single storey so far, is it easily rectified? Or does the wall need to come down? Does building control check it's been installed properly? Or is it difficult for them to check, once both walls are up?

They did the block wall 1st then attached the board and then outer wall. They used the metal ties to attach the insulation to.

I think 10mm was mentioned.