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Robert Clark

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    East Sussex

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  1. How would you improve drainage on a narrow lane without hard edging?
  2. Good idea đź‘Ť a job for the summer me thinks
  3. The road planings were laid on top of previously laid crushed rubble and type 1 MOT.
  4. It’s the surface breaking up. There’s also water damage as it’s a sloping lane and rain water has nowhere to go other than over the surface
  5. The land owners (similar to National Park) won’t allow it
  6. Hello Live down an unadopted lane which I resurfaced approx 7 years ago with recycled road planings, laid with a ride on vibrating roller. Its lasted far better than previous surfaces (type 1 mot), however it now has deep potholes and is in need of repair / replacement again. Im wondering if gravel, laid onto interlinking plastic honeycomb tiles would be a more permanent solution? Or is there a better option. Sadly tarmac or concrete is not allowed Thanks
  7. Will do when the time comes
  8. guess it helps if you read the question đź‘Ť
  9. Hi Guys How much would it cost to dig up 21 cubic meters of sub base materials (crushed hardcore) with a mini digger and cart away ? Based in Sussex Thankz
  10. Sadly I don’t know who manufactured the sealed units and the builder is not providing any info about them.
  11. I should have mentioned in my post that our sealed units have 6mm spacer bars
  12. Hi Guys Our builder appears to have dropped the ball when building our green oak framed extension. Long story short.. the architect specified triple glazing, however I suspect that the builder ordered the frame to take double glazing. By the time this mistake was noticed the frame was built. Sadly the specifications didn’t mention the thickness of the sealed units, only that they should meet building regs and be better than U 1.6 The builder has installed 24mm thick triple glazed units, which look very thin compared with other triple glazing we have in the house. I know that the units have low E glass, however I can’t tell if they are gas filled. I’ve asked the builder to provide evidence of the U value, but so far he has failed to do so. To add to the problem, he fitted the sealed units into simple oak frames which are tightly fitted into the green oak frame. Over time the oak has moved and there are now gaps around the window frames which let in draughts and rain. Any idea how I can find out what the U value of the sealed units might be? If I can prove that the sealed units (and their frames) are not fit for purpose then I can reject them
  13. It is on show and on a 100 year old house, so prefer traditional
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