Smallholdertoo

What was the lead time when you put in the order to when the meter was installed?

Our 3 phase 42kVa supply is due to be installed on 12th December. It is to be installed in a new stable shed but will power our new annexe when it is built. On contacting Octopus I was told it will be more than 4 weeks before the smart meter can be fitted. I will find out the first available fitting date tomorrow. I believe that when you swap electricity suppliers you now do not need a new smart meter. I guess, I could get one of the other other electricity suppliers to fit the meter and then swap to Octopus once meter installed (and new PVs are on the roof). My question is - Does anyone know of other suppliers that are quicker to install 3 phase smart meters ? Thanks for your help, in advance.

@nod What are the main causes of the damage? - contact with the Power float, scuff damage from boots etc. and how to best avoid if determined to have UFH pipes in the concrete slab ?

Many thanks for your responses - Luckily the concrete will not be the finished floor. We will be tiling over it! Are you aware of any youtube videos that show this?

As this is something I have never done, does shuttering off the area work for a reinforced raft? The drain will be at an edge rather than the middle. How did you do yours?

I guess the intention will be to tie the pipe to the rebar that will be 200mm apart. Would it help if the manifold was pressurised with water? I accept it will be slow to change temperature . Thanks for your comments.

Agreed wellies are unlikely to damage the pipe. Thickness not yet finalised SE has yet to do soil analysis but 250mm has been mentioned. Wet room issue relates to how to plan for appropriate falls in the downstairs wet room to ensure that water runs to the drain.. Screeding feels like it may be better for adjusting levels in a small area. If I'm honest I haven't a clue how to address the drainage of the wet room. Suggestions welcome!

We are finalising the plans of a one and a half storey house (c.90m2 footprint). This will be well insulated -with u-values of walls .12, roof .10 and the insulated structural raft 0.10. It will have MVHR, so should have a heat requirement of around 2kw even when -10celcius outside. I suggested to the SE that UFH pipe would be within the power floated structural raft and this was his response "I am apprehensive about this detail as there are several risks including damage to the system during pouring of the raft and the requirement to maintain sufficient cover to the reinforcement. I suggest that the more conventional screed-based systems may be more suitable and would likely make the detailing of wet rooms etc. easier." I would still like to go this route. I am not convinced that there be any material increase in risk from having the pipe in pumped concrete as compare with a pumped liquid screed. Any damage is more likely to come from hobnail boots than the concrete. and in regards to his comment re coverage, this could easily be addressed by increasing the depth of the slab by 25mm. This cost of 2m3 extra concrete is tiny compared with the hassle and cost of 60mm of screed. I accept his point re the wet room. I am unsure how to address this other than having shuttering to reduce the height of the concrete where the wet room is and screed to hive required levels. Any thoughts how should I respond.

We have permission for a small 1.5 floor house. This is due to have some green oak framing internally (not structural) and an external oak framed door with a fixed triple glazed pane ether side. I want the house to be well insulated and airtight. I am therefore getting a bit twitchy about the green oak and am wondering whether I could use oak glulam instead as it would then be possible to glaze using aluclad softwood windows and door frames within the glulam frame to match the other windows. Yes i would lose some light but I would have less hassle in the longer term and better thermal efficiency. Any thoughts on the concept and who I should get to do the work? The frame is 2.7m long and 2.1m high. Has anyone done anything similar?

Thanks I will!

Have you got your glazing in yet? We have just got planning permission for a small 1.5 storey house which will have some external green oak which will hold a single french door with a fixed pane each side. Like yours all glazing will be triple glazed. So I was wondering how did it go? If well, I would be very interested how you did it.