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So this is what I am worried about at the moment. It doesn't at all. The lead is going to be pretty tight to the top with maybe 3mm open to air coming up and under. This was by design from an asthetics perspective however I am now concerned I have an issue that is going to be difficult to fix as the lead is going on at the moment.

Thanks I've got some perforated aluminum trim to go all the way round the bottom. The top will be effectively shut in by the lead so no access from there. The frequency was due to the lack of bricks around the door opening, Circa 6m, and no cross ventilation in that area. What's the concern with the plastic air bricks? They eat them? I am in a rural area so plenty of critters around.

Hi - This is going into a new extension on the back of the cottage. The build up was specified by the architect. I am expecting to have dMVHR or PIV (this will be another set of questoins as I wan't to avoid trickle vents). My experience of recirculation hasn't been great when it really matters. I bought a new fancy aeg hood a few years ago with recirculation and it really did nothing to stop the things you really need gone from coming back through the filters.

Hi All - I'm trying to figure out how/where to install the flat ducting from an island hob extractor to outside. I can't find anything useful on what is an acceptable way to pull this through the floor. The build up for the floor will be a 80mm PIR with 50-65mm screed + hardwood floor. The flat ducting needs to be 90mm so not sure how best to install. I was originally thinking about going as close to the block and beam as I can but the concern becomes whether the air flow would be stifled by the temperature change it meets when colder. Either way it is going to be in both parts of the substrate just not sure which one gets the lions share and why. If anyone can point to an example someone doing this that would be appreciated. Thanks, Paul

Hi All - Just wanted to say hello before I start brain-dumping all the problems I've been losing sleep over for the last few months. I started my extension/renovations last year. Its been slow going and way more expensive than I could ever have imagined but starting to make progress now. That said it very much feels like one step forward and three back. Up until this I had zero experience in building so it's been a mega steep learning curve and only seems to be getting harder. Anyway, thanks in advance for any advice I get here. I've found it very hard to get good advice so far and most of the questions that I have found good answers to came from this forum. Paul

Hi All - I am about to install my cladding and came across a potential problem with the cladding dropping past the telescopic air bricks that vent the beam and block cavity. The site is sloped therefore the air bricks on the far side sit quite high above the ground. My intent was to bring the timber cladding down as close to the ground as I can. To do this I will need to cover over the air bricks. I am not sure if this is a problem or not. I'm installing vertical cladding so have counter battens giving a 25mm space for air flow. Will this be enough on its own to feed the air bricks or should I to install addtional grates into the cladding directely in front of the existing air bricks, or is none of this permissible and I can't drop the cladding over the air bricks. I'm really hoping its not the latter as I manged to buy bright orange enginnering bricks that will now stick out like a sore thumb against my black timber cladding. I can't really find anything on this anywhere so would appreciate a steer. Thanks, Paul

Hi All - This is my first post (though I probably should have starting posting here when I started my extension). I've just been searching through my BR drawings for something unrelated and came across statement on steelwork stating that all steelwork should be coated in water based intumescent paint to provide 30 mins protection. In and of itself I would have had no issue with this requirement had I not painted all of main steels in bitumous blackjack when they arrived on site on the recommendation of the fabricator and the SE. It is not practical or even possible to undo this at this point given that the goal post is now either fully or partially embedded in the walls. I was planning to pink board over this but am not sure whether I have a serious issue to contend with now. I've had BC control out 3 times since the steels went in and other than glancing at them to see that they were there there was no comment. Would appreciate any advice on what if anything I need to do. Thanks, Paul