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Hi All - I've spent the weekend digging a trench and installing 25m of drainage pipe to take the water from the roof out to a ditch that runs along the edge of my property. Is there a max length that I need to factor in for rodding etc? access can be gained from the ingress and egress points but I failed consider installing any rodding points along the way. Is this going to be an issue or can a professional deal with that no issue? Thanks, Paul P.S. Apologies, I've posted this in the wrong place but don't seem to be able to move it.

Thanks All. I have gone down to about 150 and will add some gravel to try and releive the splash back. It never occured to me to actually try and paint the bricks though. I'll wait until the cladding is up and the landscaping done and decide how noticable it is really going to be. Just seemed like an easy win if they could take it with no downside.

Maybe a stupid question but can I paint my engineering bricks? It will serve no other purpose than disguise the fact that I was to cheap to buy the blue ones and went for the orange only to now regret how much they are going to show up against the black cladding I am planing to install. I wasn't sure if engineering bricks would be an issue for regular masony paints. Thanks, Paul

Thanks for that. This is kind of what I was expecting if there was no way to clean it off. I am a little concerend by your fully cured after a day or two comment as I ended up applying in several stages with multiple layers over the course of about a month due to the weather. First coat was just a light resin to coat the boards as trying to keep the flat roof dry was a nightmare. Then separately I bandaged all of the GRP trims, screws and boards. Third was the main matting and then finally the top coat. Each layer was well sanded between coats and acetoned but there was a about a week between each. Re the stains I think I'll take the ignore it approach for now. I can always come back to it once I've got the main build done.

I know you're right, but I'm going to wake up every morning and stare at it out the bathroom window whilst brushing my teeth annoying myself for not fixing it.

Thanks. I only did this a few weeks ago and have some left over. If so would an acetone wipe and a light coat with the top coat work?' I used regular Cureit.

Ah okay, that's good I was concerened I'd have to take off all the top coat around the edges. Thanks.

When you say rub down you mean sand it down to the resin? I was hoping to avoid that if I can.

Hi All - My lead capping -- despited being oiled -- have leached onto the resin roof. I've tried some acetone which looked like it might work and does dull it down but the marks are still there. Has anyone any suggestions for what might take it off? Because I've top coated it I'm pretty sure you're not supposed to go over the top like you can the resin as it will just delmainate because of the wax content. Thanks, Paul

Thanks all. I'm going to try the joining angles together to make it work.

Thanks I needed that with all this build stuff at the moment

Hi All - As part of my work I was hoping to replace the pvc gutter with some nicer looking galvanised steel. The lean to roof is 38 degrees so a non standard size. I was hoping to find some kind of simple adjustable bend but this doesn't seem to be a thing. My next idea was to step it out slightly and then run it down the wall using a standard angle, however this will not look great as it will be at a different angle to the roof. In all honestly I am probably the only person that will ever see or notice this given that it's kind of hidden away. I thought I should ask if anyone was aware of any options for an adjustable bend. I did speak to someone from a reseller who said there are companies that will make custom ones but this will propbably cost a fortune and I am trying to stop myself doing stuff like that. The final downpipe will be fixed to the return wall on the extension. Thanks, Paul

I may just be making more complicated than needed. So just been looking at the environvent 160/300 MEV. The space I'm covering is a kitchen/dinner with a utility and pantry. If I run ducting from MEV to around the hob location as well as the utility room and tie that in with a humidistat voc sensor it should automatically increase the flow when cooking or it smells bad stuff (not sure how accurate and smart these sensors are). I'll call them tomorrow to find out. It's a really old cottage and leaks like a sieve I am not really concerned about being too airtight yet. The extension opens directly into the main cottage as well.

I'm okay with vents I think provided I can colour match. I did toy with just cutting out the slots but not sure that would look great.

BCO came out and didn't seem concerend either way tbh. He saw it more as a warranty issue than something he needed to worry about. He was failry indifferent to whether I did nothing or added some grills in front of the existing airbricks in the cladding. Re the top side ventilation again no concerns from him. I have decided to try and go for a thinner cladding and drop it down a bit, this should give 6mm gap which equates to 60 cm/3 which from what I've seen is sufficient for some of the manufacturers, The people I was looking to get the cladding from had no view at all. Thanks all for your advice here.

BCO has been today and it turns out my thinner insulation is not an issue as my application went before the 22 reg changes. Re ventilation, he was happy with no trickle vents provided I can provide a design for a properly speced mechanical system for the rooms. He went on to say that a mechanical system could handle the hob extraction if designed correctly, that there was actually no need to have an extractor above/next to. He also said recirculation alone wasn't sufficient. A good result really. Thanks all for your help.

You make a really good point I've been fretting and stressing over so many things around this over the last couple of years and ultimately little to none of them really amounted to a substantive difference. I'm very much trying to use the good enough approach to all this now. Not least because all this nit picking is going to leave me skint when I'm done.

Thanks. BCO just been. He was not concerned about the external steels at all. If I understood correctly the primary concerns were if it was considered a primary fire exit and whether it was supporting a floor above. He did comment on pink boarding in so much as apparently there is a bit more to it to technically meet the spec in terms of clipped fixings but was making the point that it almost never gets done that way and is effectively overlooked at this point.

Thanks. I've got a call with the BCO tomorrow so hopefully get a steer in the right direction. I did contact a company that sells the paint but it turns out this is way more of a thing than I had appreciated. I need to complete a form detailing all the specs for the steels to come back with a recommendation. It sounds like this is something I'll need get someone in for as a lot of boxes seem to be needed to be ticked. I was a bit miffed at the suggestion that the expensive extra coating of zinc galvanising might need to be stripped off. Having said all this. The only reason the shelf is exposed is because I wanted to house the glass doors in the cavity for aesthetics, maybe I just go with sitting them in the outer leaf.

Internally PB. Externally it will be exposed and likely clad with some kind of alu trim.

Thanks. I'll take a look at direct to insulation option you mentioned.

Thanks everyone for your responses. Of all the things I am trying to figure out at the moment this was not on this list and had me worried last night as retro fixing it seemed next to impossible. Thinking about it I do have a 90mm SHS corner post where the glass doors intersect along with steels above to hold the wall up. These are galvanised. The post will be wrapped with aerogel but hadn't really got a plan for the top steel. I've no issue priming/painting this though as it doesn't have the blackjack all over it.

Thanks. I was going to raise this as a separate Q but since you mention it. My objection to trickle vents is simply that in my area the farmers always have some kind of fire on the go which just stinks the house out. I was hoping to go with some kind of ducted MVHR/MEV or PIV combo to control the air in and out. Are you saying that even with a properly sized system that trickle vents will still be needed. I can certainly get them as I haven't ordered the glass yet but was hoping the mechanical option would be acceptable.

Thanks. I like this idea as an option. Need to check my levels for the though with the telescopic air bricks.

I am hoping that the architect is soundly using note 4 from 4.2 of part L1(a) 'If meeting such a standard would create significant problems in relation to adjoining floor levels, a lesser provision may be appropriate.'