ricardo100671

My bathroom has two lighting loops, House and Mood. We have an illuminated mirror, which I would like turned on with either loop. Can this be achieved please ?

Thanks for the very detailed advice

Floors undulate cross joists about 7mm and dip down by one wall to 10mm over about 800. Planning 12mm laminate over, which brings up another question of whether I still have to use underlay if I do pour leveling. Also its about 74sqrm into four connected rooms

We are considering leveling out our joisted timber floors with Setcreet Latex Self Leveling compound to 7mm avg. thickness. The deck is ProWarm UFH routed boards with 6mm over ply. Some people have said tis is a waste of money as it will eventually crack and crumble over time due to vertical flexion form walking. We can see a bit of movement when we walk but wondered if concrete would weight this down and give a more sturdy base. Has anyone has success/Issues with this ? Thank you

I am designing a door with Solidoor designer and one of the option is to ommit the coupler, which is me preference. The overall door dimensions are 843 Door +357 sidelight. I assume, without the coupler the two are screwed together for each side, with mastic between ? Would this pass Building Control ?

There is no doubt that there is a leak, question is about solutions. Thanks

15mm Pex and its ground floor, inaccessible void below floor. full pipe run fittings at each end.

My 'Plumber' (turns out is a dip sh$%t), did not do a pressure test on my bedroom rad runs before laying communal areas underfloor heating over it ! After insisting this be done, we have found a leak, 3 bar loss over a day. All loops are pex and run to outside manifold, so can address each line individually. is there any solution, other than ripping up the floor ? Was thinking leak stop solvents but womnder if anyone has had experience with it being a permanent fix. Or, maybe, even snaking a microbore bore through the damaged pipe and running that rad off that.

Thanks for the replies and the tip on the Y branch for a rodding eye. It just sounded absurd what he was saying, also claimed rodding tools are all 4" WHAT ! and he is practically retired ! I do wonder where he bought his credentials. Worse still and if I read Part H, section 2.6, correclty, it states "Appliance discharge pipes should discharge into another discharge pipe before discharging into a stack, unless they discharge to a gulley." I have all my appliances discharging to a common discharge before discharging into the stack. So to me that seems perfectly compliant right ?

My plumber has designed our bathroom sewage as per the picture below. All branches are 50mm pipework and there is a rodding access on the stack branch. Our Inspector said that all braches need to be 110mm up to each service point and can then be reduced down. Claiming this is because they are below floor level and for rodding purposes. But Given the connetion angles, I don't see how a 110mm pipe would be any easier to rod than a 50. Is this design wrong please? If it is an issue, would this be acceptable instead to provide better access to each branch ? Thank you

We are doing a refurbishment and want to plan for the possibility of adding a Battery backup, like Anker SOLIX or Mango Power E, in the future. The grid supply and Main CU are located in the middel of the house and the batteries would be in an outside Plant Room, which Has a CU supplied with 16mm2 cable from the Main CU. In the future we would like to run the house entirely from Batteries, charged either by solar or overnight on cheap tarrif. is the current 16mm2 cabling coming into the Plant Room adequate for charging the battery from grid and I assume I would need an additional cable inplace to run power back to the Main CU to power it of the batteries, as well as CAT for any controll pannels? Am I missing anything please ? Thank in advance

Thank you. Not quite sure I understand all that. I am planning to fit the weather compensate sensor, for sure and also have a single room stat. Are these thing mutually exclusive? Assumed the weather compensate would adjust flow temp so we don't overshoot and also be mre efficient

We will be having UFH in communal areas, 5 loops and 5 rads, in bedrooms. UFH is ProWarm 16mm foile faced routed boards and I have used Heat Punk to calculate the exact rad sizing to run the lot at 45deg C. Will set loop flows to ensure each loop achieves its design output as well all preset lockshield on rads for the same. Our heat loss is about 49W/m2 and so will use a Vitodens 050-W combi. Was thinking I do not need a separate pump on the manifold as, from my calcs, the one on the Vitodens should be plenty good enough, given that it all ground floor, single zone and only 5 rads. Am I mistaken ? Thanks in advance for any help

Thanks Nick, for the perfect explanation. Exactly the assurance I needed since this will all be burried so didn't want to do something I would regret. All pipework is either 110 or 50 and the kitchen run is around 2m (excl. Upstand)

I this design and concerned toilet flush will pull out traps all traps. So thinking to add air inlets, at and, above sinks, but wonder how to deal with low level of shower and bath.