Ben100

The other dimmer switch is for the side lights.

Yes, I connected the cluster lights live directly to the permanent live and it worked, no issues (apart from the obvious not being able to turn them off).

Quick update – it looks like the issue is with the dimmer switch. When the cluster pendants aren’t connected, the dimmer’s live terminal shows as live on my tester. But as soon as I connect the cluster lights (live to switched live), the tester shows it as dead. So it seems that once the dimmer is under load, it’s effectively cutting the power on the switched live. Has anyone come across this before? Could it be the dimmer not coping with the load, or possibly a compatibility issue with the bulbs?

Hi all, I’ve just installed two new cluster pendant lights in my lounge, but they keep cutting out. A few details: The main switch in the consumer unit doesn’t trip — it stays on fine. It’s only the cluster pendants that go off. To get them working again, I have to remove all the bulbs and put them back in one by one. Once most of the bulbs are in, or when I turn on the second circuit on the dual dimmer switch, the pendants cut out again. Setup: 2 x cluster pendants (14 bulbs in total). Bulbs are 4–5W each (so not huge power draw). Controlled by a dual dimmer switch. Other lights on the second circuit work fine, even when the pendants cut out. Could this be an issue with the dimmer switch not being able to handle the number of bulbs, even though they’re low wattage? Or is it more likely to be a wiring/compatibility issue? Thanks in advance for any advice.

So I guess my two options are to get a longer sill and sit it over the insulation or install it on the outer leaf of brickwork.

Yep. It’s on the list of jobs.

Yeah, I was thinking that. Maybe I need to replace the sill and sit the entire window back a little.

I'm planning to fill the void with foam. S it looks like the window needs to sit back a bit more.

Hi, I'm replacing my old bay windows and have questions about how the new ones should sit. The window sills on the new windows are shorter than the old ones, so the windows need to sit more forward on the brickwork. This is the bay window space and new window. Is the sill ok to sit like this below? And is it ok for the middle of the window (not recessed) to return to the brickwork? Or does it need to sit more like this? Thanks! Ben

Cheers

Ok, I get what you’re suggesting, thanks. I can’t find the manifold joiners though. Where would you join the two manifolds together?

Hi guys, I need to add an additional 2 zones (4 runs) to my UFH. My original plumber has gone AWOL and no one else seems to want to take on the job. So it’s left down to me. Attached is a picture of what’s installed already. As you can see, there’s no more spaces left on the manifold. I do have 2 more ports left on the thermostat box though. What is the best option here? Replace the entire manifold? Add a second manifold in somewhere? Thanks for any advice guys! Ben

Cheers guys, good information!

Hi all, I know consumer units have torque requirements for the connection screws, but are there torque requirements for power and light switch screw connections too? Thanks, Ben

Hi all, I'm looking to build a new plinth wall around my new extension. The existing house (not the extension) is build with Lime Mortar. I'm not sure if I should go with Lime Mortar or a Hydralime/cement mix when building the new plinth. What are your thoughts? Cheers, Ben