nezdub

Thank you, even the greenish powder that is on the render itself?

Hello, looking to tear out the plaster under the window sill and came across this green tint between cement and a layer of wallpaper. This is in an old edwardian house. Would this be just mould or could be something worse like asbestos or other? Thanks

Thanks for your reply and thoughts on flooring - LVT was just an alternative to the tiles in the hallway, but nothing finalised. We plan on upgrading roof insulation, changing all windows to double glazing (we've just got the keys, so work is necessary), and appropriate underfloor insulation. Then I'll look into internal insulation on front and back walls (Externally facing). I did heat calcs based on the assumed changes (ex wall insulation for now), and reached heat loss of 7,000W, meaning I'd need a heat output of around 80 W/M2 in greater london. With that said I'd like to get a specialist in to do their own calcs. Thanks - it seems like the best option. Thanks very much for sharing thoughts. 1. Not planning on digging out concrete, will try to bridge the gap between joist and concrete with either omnie torfloor boards or the self leveller on top of plastic panels. 2. I've been reading about the non-breathability of PIR, but many seem to claim that on a suspended ventilated floor it works. I'm happy to use a different type of insulation as long as there is efficient reflective ability for the UFH. Thanks for sharing that article, need to evaluate u-value differentials, but I do prefer maintaining breathability (potentially hindering some of the heat retention). 3. Ideally I'd get it done, so I'll just have to check. At the same time, hard for me to see the benefits of heating under there unless we change the kitchen layout. 4. Plenty of room as ceilings are quite high. As you mention stairs and doors being the main limitation, we'd be ok with losing up to 30/40mm all in. Thanks! I do hope these dreams do come true - would be great to get the character of these old houses coupled with some decent UFH, slightly better efficiency, and no rot!

Another noob question from me, apologies. For wall area - is this only walls exposed to the outside? and does it include internal walls of rooms? I'm trying to do calcs for my terraced house and appreciate any input.

First post for me. We're looking to retrofit UFH into a 110 yrs edwardian terraced house, overall around 100 sqm split between ground and first. Majority of floor is on suspended timber, except for area in kitchen extension which is concrete. I'll be using 100mm Kingspan PIR everywhere (unless it's redundant in the 1st floor?) Coverings will be tiles in kitchen and bathrooms, engineered wood in living areas and bedroom, and perhaps LVT in hallway. I'm looking to fit it all myself, and have come to these 3 options. Between Joist Alu spreaders - lowest floor build-up but I imagine least effective in efficiency. Omnie Torfloor 2 or similar - chipboard with routes for 12mm pipe. Low enough build-up, but easy to install and can be used with most coverings. However, still have questions around efficiency and effectiveness vs alu spreader plates. (how much better is it?) Profix panels with 15mm screed (18mm if using LVT) - seems best for efficiency but I have concerns on setting it myself. Will have to replace subfloor from boards to ply or chipboard, adding to cost. And floors are not fully level, so may be even more faff. Would this be worth the work vs Torfloor 2 and what efficacy it has? I'd be happy with Torfloor if I know that it will work well in keeping house warm without ridiculous running temps through the pipes. Finally, I am looking not to move the kitchen units in the process and build around fixed units in such a case. I'd appreciate any advice, whether you've looked into this before or have already installed any of the systems. Naturally, if you ask the companies themselves, everything works great. Thanks!