80's Owl

I do have a timber cradle under it tbf but it's under the main bowl, its coming away from the worktop where the half bowl is as it's shallower, once I've redone it ill put someting in to support that as well.

The lip on ours is only about 4mm, someones recommended a CT1 adhesive.

I don't they'd be suitable as we don't have that thick lip on the sink edge.

We have quartz worktops with a white plastic double bowl underslung sink, this was adhered to the underside of the worktop at the time of the original fitting, it's starting to come loose at end where the smaller bowl is and a gap is appearing allowing water through, it looks like I may have to disconnect the wastes, remove the sink and refit it, what will be the best adhesive to use?

Managed to sort, I did when I was a bit calmer and it fitted easily, thanks for all the help and Merry Xmas to you all.

I only guessed it was half inch due to the fact I couldn't get it to fit.

This is what I was trying to attach mine to, not sure if it needs anything fitting to that first.

I might try screwing a loose check valve onto it and see if that works, once I know it does I can try it on the fixed one.

Thats correct, the one I have is 3/4" but it looks like the appliance is 1/2".

That makes sense but it doesn't fit on the isolator I already have it seems like the appliance fitting is 1/2" and that's 3/4".

This ones built in at the appliance end so I can't just swap the hose, it looks like a filter but not sure, I've not seen anything like it before.

I've just bought a Bosch dishwasher and the water connection is of a type I've never seen before, the Beko one I have replaced it with had a standard 3/4" washing machine type connection whereas the Bosch has the thing below that doesn't fit onto the mains 3/4" isolator, there was nothing else supplied to make this connection, what do I need to do?

I've been told by a local authority that we need to fit backflow prevention to a bidet which I've not a problem with but just need to know exactly what I need to fit as there seems to be an array of options, it's classed as a Cat 5 fluid.

Do I need two though or is one sufficient.

I currently have a Lamona extract unit built into a kitchen cupboard above the hob that's using charcoal filters, I've decided to extract it outside and have drilled the relevant holes to do so, the extractor has a black plastic 150mm outlet on top, I will be using 100mm flexible ducting, for the reducing kit do I need a one piece kit (150 - 100mm) or will I need one piece on top of the extractor and a second on the end of the ducting?

I don't think it is as they are not subject to any direct weather, rainwater etc.

So you're suggesting raking out and repointing in lime?

Not 100% but I doubt it will be lime.

I assume for this you hack the plaster off, put this on then replaster over?

Its exposed brick on the outside, plaster inside.

I'm currently renovating a house for rental, its a Victorian terrace built in the 1870's. A damp patch about 250mm has appeared above the skirting board on one wall, the wall is external with no clear signs of damp on the outside, it's not an exposed wall as it's on in a gennel (as we say 'oop North) below is a basement with no obvious signs of damp in there either. I doubt we'll ever find where its comong from (rising damp has been mentioned) but is there a solution to hold it back?

Well done.

I'm planning on fitting some of these to a bathroom, never fitted them before but it appears you start with a corner trim (an internal one in this case) then each panels is tongue and groove, I'm just curious how you fit the last panel where it meets the next internal corner. These are the panels I intend to use: https://zestwallpanels.co.uk/

I've hacked the plaster off Mark and there's nothing there, the gas and water pipes are all visible.

This is the problem, there are none of those, the house was built in 1876 and has always had damp issues, its brick built with with white Tyrolean on the outside which is unaffected.