hauntedicecreamvan

Thank you, this is what I went with in the end. Looks fantastic in the slim profile aluminium frame.

I'm looking to replace all my windows. Most windows are a mix of either 2400x1200 or 1200x1200 squares. Currently they are mostly split with a vertical mullion into 2x 600x1200 or side casements with a large fixed central pane, but the design of the property looks so much better with the original simple square windows. I understand that 1200x1200 is right on the limit of a standard uPVC awning window when using 4-20-4 glazing, and exceeds it for 6-18-4. Anecdotally I've seen large uPVC awning windows fitted to properties and they felt so flimsy and were barely usable after a few years, whereas my smaller 600x1200 openers are fine after 30-odd years. I can't fit tilt and turn due to obstructions in the window reveals internally. I see that fully reversible systems like Rehau Total70R allow up to 1400x1400 sashes. They have a "flush casement" appearance when closed, and some systems have a brush pile to cover the hinge slot. I don't need any of the reversible features, although even on ground floor I suppose it could make cleaning easier since you're standing higher inside. Does anyone here have these windows? Any disadvantages to be aware of? I guess they require more care with squaring the frame and toe-and-heeling glass during installation.

I'm planning on fitting a fully glazed aluminium door in my porch to let more light in the hall. I want the door to be glazed full height but can't decide between a single large glass panel or two panes with a midrail separating them. Adding the midrail adds a significant cost to the price of the door, but I'm not sure if there are any real benefits. I don't need to fit a letterbox slot. The fully glazed I assume wins on thermal and acoustic performance, having just a single pane. I assume that the midrail would improve the integrity of the door, but given that it's aluminium, how much does that matter? There's also the argument that if the bottom pane gets broken, there's half as much glass to replace, but then would I be able to get the same glass to match the top pane anyway? The midrail seems to win on security too, because if you smashed the full pane, you could push it out and step through, whereas the midrail glazed door would require crawling through broken glass. Any thoughts welcome.

If you go for a higher-end trickle vent (e.g. humidity-sensitive) check that they can physically fit on the frames in terms of width/height. There used to be a product sold by Aereco (their "EMM" vent), that were quite slimline at only 27mm height. I fitted a few before putting in a PIV unit and they work well for opening and closing themselves based on humidity levels. Now, Aereco only sell the EMM2 which looks similar to those offered by Brookvent and is a much larger unit (the Brookvent HY is 45mm height!). I think out of the standard vents (like the Slotvent), they're all much the same as each other. The only consideration you might have is upward-deflection or downward facing for the interior part. Upward-deflection vents should be less prone to feeling drafts. They also do a better job of hiding the holes, in case you are incapable of drilling holes in a straight line like whoever did some for my home's previous owner.