zoe61

Thank you that makes sense! Ideal Vogue max combi 40

@Zed I've just checked and the failsafe mode was enabled. I've been struggling with internet connection the last couple of weeks and the problem only seems to have arisen then actually so hopefully that may fix the random kicking in of the boiler. @Nickfromwales if I was to fit a 2 port zone valve to the radiator pipes would this then fix my issue and put the raditors on their own zone please? Or would it create more problems (i'm a bit concered about the short cycling comment and dissipating heat)?

@Nickfromwales- no i dont have anything like that image. All teh UFH is from that manifold. Yes the pipes going upwards go the raditors. I wanted it so the radiators could run seperate. i.e.i like having the warm tiles in kitchen even during summer but dont want radiators on upstairs as its too warm

Hi so I have an issue with how my UFH and radiator zones are plumbed or maybe wired up- can someone please help advise on what I need to do? Currently my boiler just keeps turning on at random times and turning the radiators on evern though the Neo stat for radiators says it shouldnt be on. I had my UFH system designed by Wunda, I also told them that I wanted my radiators on a seperate thermostat so they sent me out the Neo Heatmiser kit with my order. My cousin then installed by boiler for me, at the time he said he thinks I need a seperate valve for the radiators because theres nothing to seperat it from the UFH zone, I've contacted him again and he has just told me I have the wrong system and can't help. I have attached pictures to show what the current system looks like. In my mind I have 3 zones on thermostats: 1 UFH for the lounge (wired), 1 UFH for the kitchen (wireless), radiators (wireless). The lounge and the kitchen work fine, it seems that the kitchen and radiators are the one that are linked together. Thank you.

Thanks @Neil- the staircase looks amazing!! Can I ask what thickness your strings are? Ive been told I need to increase mine to 42mm but im worried its going to look massive! @Mr Punter I wonder if its because we only have 12mm then, and increasing the glass to 15mm just gives it that more rigidity. Ideally I don't want a handrail due to visual appearances. The staircase is a straight flight that divides the open plan ground floor room into two halves, but I want to try keep my options open incase once installed I decide it needs a handrail then at least I can install one.

Trying to decide upon a staircase, ideally wanting to go for a frame-less glass balustrade on the stairs and landing as per the example. However having just installed a frame less Juliet glass balustrade on a balcony I'm shocked at how much the glass flexes and I'm not concerned about my choice. For anyone that's installed one or ever seen one in person, do they move? Is it disconcerting? And is there a difference in movement between the bottom mount (u-channel) fixing and the side mount metal stud/buttons option?

Floor construction is currently 219mm deep posi-joists with 22mm eggerboard on top. If I have a 100mm cavity would I place 100mm of the RWA45 or does it only need to be partially filled? If I chose to stay with mineral wool does just increasing the thickness from 25mm to 100mm have a significant effect or not really?

Trying to decide on what products to use for the stud walls and struggling to find any definite answers anywhere. My understanding is all stud walls need some sort of insulation in them- regardless of whether there is a door opening or not, but the bathrooms need increased sound insulation for building regs. Our stud walls are constructed from 100 x 50mm. Is it sufficient to use a roll product here or should I be using batts? Bathrooms- should I be using batts? Again what thickness- 100mm? For rooms where I think sound transfer could be bad I will be placing Soundbloc on both walls. For the ceilings we have a lot of batt type insulation that we got for free so I will be using that in the ceilings.

It's a conversion, but existing floor is a concrete slab, we are installing 140mm PIR insulation, 3 walls are effectively basement walls, that I'm putting 100mm insulation on which is massive overkill according to u-values but we had lots so might aswell use it. The front exposed wall does have quite a bit of glass in it (double glazed), but all in all I think our heat loss should be quite low!

Ok I've emailed Wunda for a quote. In terms of pipe spacing what have people installed there's at when they have undertaken the calcs? the quotes so far have assumed 200mm, is this roughly correct? Yes fairly practical, undertaken the majority of the work so far so I'm hoping the UFH shouldn't be too hard. My only concern is the pressure testing!

So in the process of ordering the wet UFH system, thing is I've had a mixture of quotes (supply only). At the top end of the scale is Nu-heat, they say that there system is insurance backed, so should it not be warm enough etc they will pay for the remedial works, it also comes with a manual and specific pipe layout. At less that half the price I have a quote from U-Heat, no manual, no insurance and a rough pipe layout drawing. Any suggestions, advice on which i should go for? Do I need the manuals and specific drawing? Or am I getting ripped off? Is the U-Heat system good? Also when installing do I need a pipe decoiler or can I make some makeshift thing on site? Thanks

Wouldn't that move the issue to further down the line when they come to fit the plaster board?

Thanks- not looking forward to this! Ill be working with the joiner so ill be trying to get the centres as close as possible to make the plastering work as easy as possible and minimise waste! High aims and all that!

Sorry if this is covered else where but spent a fair bit of time searching and cant find a definitive answer. So far this is what I understand, stud walls are to be constructed at either 400 or 600mm centers (600mm means a 12.5mm thickness plasterboard). Having read a previous blog and looked at the options for insulating these walls (acoustically) the options come in either 400 or 600mm widths meaning you have to cut on site. I will be using 100 x 50mm timber so 50mm will have to be cut off every time which seems a lot of hassle. Why is the insulation not made to fit the actual opening size? Is there a way around this or does it just have to be done?

Ok, so I've tried doing some research and struggling to come across the exact answers, may be a really stupid question though. We are planning on installing our own floorboards- which i think we have the method covered (22m P5 T&G). But prior to laying the floorboards is there anything I need to install first. For example, our posi-joists are at 400 centers, but do we need to install noggins between the joists for future stud walls where they don't sit on top of a joist, or run parallel not perpendicular to a joist? Do we need to install anything to take account of stairs, showers, toilets? And I was looking at a video of how to install a wet room tray and they cut the floorboard out and installed a new board between the joists not over the joists. Once the boards are glued down im assuming it will be a very messy job to come along and cut out later, therefore do i need to be leaving a cut out for the shower area now?

So looking at external front doors. I want to go for a solid oak door but need to decide upon the locking mechanism. We live on a farm so are constantly in and out of the house. When I grew up my parents never locked our house so as children we could freely go in and out. When I have children I would like the same but want the security of having the house locked. Carrying keys seems like a bad/ unpractical idea- someone will always forget them. So I was thinking of a magnetic lock with key code entry, then it doesn't matter (unless someone forgets the code). What are peoples opinions on this? Does anyone have one? Any I should go for/avoid? Thanks

Structural Engineer. She actually sized as 125, I increased it!

Am I correct in saying Building regs state Roof = 0.20W/m². If so then when I input the values into the Simple U-Value Calculator I get a U-value of 0.15- have I done something wrong? You state 120mm PIR in two layers is this in between the rafters? Seems like a really horrible job

Think you can use a standard template but does use a lot of room. Autodesk Vehicle Tracking is the software to use to create the drawing. Really simple and quick! And companies charge a arm and a leg for it!! Benefit of doing it this way is that you can show where the final axle sits and have the rest of the wagon overhang the garden if you like. On this size of wagon it isn't much but suppose it all helps.

So I'm in the deep end here frantically trying to learn as much about roofs as possible in a short space of time. I have a joiner and roofer lined up (both close family friends), very good and reasonably priced hence using them, but old fashioned in there methods and knowldege and not that helpful at communicating the finer details so I'm trying to ensure I have a good solution and that they wont miss anything out. I'm swayed towards a cold roof. Reason being height build up. At the moment I'm proposing the following: Slate tiles Battens (do I need counter battens as well, also how do you determine thickness of these?) TLX Gold or Actic Hybrid R (thoughts welcome?) 150mm rafters at 400 centers with a 50mm air gap followed by 100mm insulation (ideally PIR- but dreading the cutting so maybe go for earthwool- thoughts again please?) 50mm PIR Internally 25mm battens Plasterboard. Does this sound like a reasonable solution? Any better alternatives please? Am I correct in saying I don't need any extra venting? When it comes to the wall plate is there any special detail required here? And at the ridge do I just need to lay the following https://www.roofingsuperstore.co.uk/product/cembrit-ridge-vent-roll-5m.html Thanks

Had a quick play with this now and seems good. Thank you very much! Interestingly to achieve a 10% heat loss or less I need 200mm insulation. Much more than the average values that are recommended by UFH companies. Also watching a episode of 'Building Alaska' last night, obviously they have log burners but even so the insulation in those buildings was scarily thin!

Thanks everyone for your comments so far. Based upon this and reading more topics on this forum I think we will only install wet UFH downstairs and fit radiators for the bedroom floors, with electric UFH in bathrooms. My reasoning being the house should be very well insulated and based upon peoples experiences the heating will have minimal use. It seems a lot of money to install something that may not be used that often, I feel we would be better spending this money else where. Plus I believe we will have faster response times with radiators which is a important factor for bedrooms. But there's still time for me to change my mind and as I'm designing and procuring the stuff I can do this without the other half knowing ?.....so watch this space.

Do you mean 150mm PIR on a ground floor, this seems normal/slightly above todays values. What makes you say its possibly not enough?

Haha I cant wait, what doesn't kill you definitely makes you stronger! When you say its saved you large amount of money, can you name any specific that may be useful to me too please? Luckily for me I haven't worked directly on either, neither are great examples! Although currently designing some upgrades for the ECML which will definitely remove some of its resilience issues!

Thanks Dudda. Externally the house is reclaimed stone so do not want to cover this. In terms of ceiling heights this isn't a issue the ground floor will have a ceiling height of 2.5m after all the insulation and screed, and the other floors are also generous. Not fussed about loosing wall space either as large rooms. Floor joists are all at 400mm centres and can take a screed load. It seems like I definitely need to heat all floors, I just need to decide upon the extent of UFH.