LaChab

I'm using this stuf to bond wooden battens onto PIR and concrete. Seems to work really well. Possibly cheaper from elsewhere.... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B08NK8CHJV?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_1&th=1

@Nickfromwales I'd really like to take advantage of BUS, and I don't like the idea of using "straight" electricity to heat the hot water. A small heat pump is exactly what I'd like, but it seems impossible under BUS, so I think I'll be forced into at least 7kw. So using the UVC as a large (giant!) buffer seemed a good idea to reduce cycling. Agree completely about A2A, and we've had the pipework fitted for a multi split. Just daren't fit it until I get BUS sorted! Then in practice the HP should be almost entirely for producing hot water.

@JohnMo Thanks for all the suggestions. Hadn't thought about affecting the hot water temperature. Suppose I thought the heat pump would just be using the UVC as a large buffer, so it would always be within a few degrees. That's a very interesting suggestion about a "direct" UVC. I could have a tank with no heat pump coil and two output coils (middle and top) to provide heating and hot water. (prefer a coil to a PHE if there's a choice) Think I've got room for a 500l cylinder, so would be able to "carry over" quite a bit from the early morning charge up. Ordinary days 1kw should be enough.

The BH heatloss spreadsheet says that I should need well under 2k for space heating in our new build. We aren't having UFH, so I'm thinking about using just one or 2 kickspaces (fan coils) in the lounge / kitchen. To get over the low water content issue, I was wondering about buying a UVC with an extra output coil at the top to power the space heating. Effectively a thermal store. C2Go say no problem specifying one. Then the heat pump would simply keep the tank at the set temperature, and the space heating cirulation pump would be controlled by a room stat. Good idea? Daft? Pointless? All thoughts appreciated.

Personally, I just put DC Isolaters in the attic to terminate the cables from the panels. No MC4s needed. Then you can sort out the "on going" safely at any time. Similar to @JohnMo's approach I think. I find it hard to see "never switched" DC Isolaters as a fire risk. Less than an inverter I would have thought.

@Markuz Thanks. LOts of choices! TP are close so I'll give them a call.

@Nickfromwales Thanks, we'll give it a try.

@Markuz Thanks for the suggestions. Biggest problem with these cement boards is finding a local supplier. All seem to be mail order only, with usually ridiculous delivery charges!

@Nickfromwales That's a thought!

@Nickfromwales Thanks for the quick response. That's rather impressive looking stuff Not even too expensive. I'll give it a test!

Hi, I need to fit a panel to the outside of our house (ICF K-rend) in order to mount the solar inverter and trunking. Trouble is, I haven't a clue what to use. I need something that will take screws like ply, but be fully weatherproof. I've never used cement boarding type materials, and I've no idea whether they take screws well. Any suggestions........

You can download a pretty comprehensive guide from this page.... https://knauf.com/en-AU/knauf-gypsum/services/training/plasterboard-installation-manual

I used https://www.toolstation.com/floor-tite-tri-lock-pozi-screw/p65750

The Egger instructions seem to say either is ok...... https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&ved=2ahUKEwjI0OOZp7iPAxXjbEEAHX5LOO4QFnoECBwQAQ&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.egger.com%2Fget_download%2Fc19090af-796c-4d84-86bf-33909a20f6bf%2FFlyer_Advanced_Structural_Flooring_System_Fitting_guide_UK_05_2024.pdf%3Fcountry%3DGB&usg=AOvVaw1t1ze_7xhNmM1ygxieNHff&opi=89978449

These don't have a clear flow, but at least they're designed to be "clearable", and hopefully they'll save the trap from getting clogged. https://www.qssupplies.co.uk/bathroom-furniture-shower-taps/90185.htm