LaChab

As we haven't yet decided on the final floor material inside, I've left a (bit arbitary) 18mm ready for it. Then when it's fitted we'll have a fairly level threshold.

It's a new build. With the insulation over the slab it seems the best method. We did the same in our current house that we built about 15 years ago and it's been fine. At the time seemed too simple to be correct!

Good Morning, I've mulled over lots of other threshold details on here, and produced this hybrid. I'd really appreciate any thoughts............. I was wondering about using a threshold drain instead of the slot drain. https://www.aco.co.uk/products/thresholddrain https://www.aco.co.uk/products/hexdrain-brickslot We haven't chosen the indoor floor covering yet, so the temporary slope inside is just a thought in case the BCO insists. I've allowed 18mm for engineered wood. Are all window / door thresholds roughly the same width? (we haven't chosen windows yet) Thanks for reading. Threshold detail.pdf

ICF outer walls, so they're sorted, but I realise a good idea for these. But even the Marmox only give a U of 0.5, so how much will I save for quite a lot of expense?

Hi, I'd welcome thoughts on how to start my internal load bearing walls. I'm sure it must have been covered before, but I can't find anything that exactly covers it......... My ground floor internal walls are going to be built up from the ground bearing slab. There's going to be 300mm of insulation on top of the slab, so the floating floor will finish up 300mm up the wall. So the cheapest answer seems to be just to use lightweight blocks, which I think will give an R value of about 0.6 at 300mm high. Or I could add a row of Marmox Thermoblock, which would give R of 2. But cost another £600. And if I did that, perhaps I might as well use concrete blocks, which I'd prefer. Does anyone know how to calculate what the potential heat loss is from a 9.0m 100mm wall resting on a ground slab? I just can't decide if the extra cost is worth it.......... Thanks for reading.

Morning, That sounds really interesting. @Dave Jones Could you post a link to the fancoils you fitted....... And where (floor, ceiling..) did you fit them?

@Gone West Thanks for looking out the photo, that's super helpful. I hadn't thought about using a 50mm AAV. That makes it much easier. Those "dual" pan connectors are rather brilliant. So much to find out about!

@Gone WestThanks for the response and photo. That toilet's very neat! Did you have 1 or 2 soil pipes coming up through the slab? I my ramblings I've come acros this, which looks made for the situation....

Concealed cistern in (I think!) a dummy wall to hide the sub stack and the basin in a counter top so it's easy to hide the plumbing...........

Hi, All suggestions gratefully received.... I've looked through loads of posts but can't find an answer! I'm sure this should be really simple, but I can't think where I should bring the soil pipe up through the slab for the downstairs cloakroom. Should I place it directly below where the WC will go, or to the side, perhaps 500mm? If it goes directly under the WC, which seems easy, then I don't see where I connect the wash basin. If to the side, then how far, and is there room for a "Y" above the floor. And are pan connectors allowed to go sideways. And where does the stub stack with AAV go? I'm having a floating chipboard floor with 300mm of insulation under it, so a bit of "wiggle" room perhaps..... I'm just keen to have the right solution so there's no problems actually plumbing things in. Thanks

@joe90 Sounds like good advice! After so long doing everything myself, I find it difficult to "let go".

@George @Mr Punter Thanks for the suggestions. Is it reasonable to ask the bricky to cut the concrete blocks to incorporate the lintels, or is it best to use brticks round the openings?

I'd welcome thoughts and advice on how to deal with drains (110mm) going through the (filled) cavity below the oversite slab. Having glanced through Part H, I don't fancy the built in method using rocker pipes and four flexible joints. But for the lintelled method, how do lintels interface with concrete blocks? Do you need to use bricks round each pipe? How do you keep the cavity clear for 50mm round the pipe when filling it with concrete? I'd like to get the drains sorted before the bricky lays the blocks, but that seems tricky.

Thanks @Chanmenie I've made a list after looking through lots of posts on here!

Sorry for such a probably odd question, but I can't find the answer on the forum, and pictures I've seen don't seem very conclusive. Is the topsoil (organic matter) cleared before digging stepped trench fill foundations, or later, and just inside the trenches, after the concrete has been put in and dried. I'd like to know as it would seem to make a difference of at least an extra row of blocks if the topsoil is cleared first. Any guidance much appreciated.