SB2023

Thank you @Nickfromwales and @Kelvin. All makes sense. Will get the bolts in and see how it is. But more confident now.

Excellent thanks @MikeSharp01. This adds more confidence. The studs are reasonably short at about 2m and connected to the top plate that connects to the rafters. It all feels pretty solid as a wall...

Thanks @markc. I guess if doing that, I might as well just double up!

Thanks @jayc89 this will solve it. And it all feels pretty solid I assume?

Hi all I have a small loft space above a bedroom that I am framing out. It is going to be used primarily for the 50kg mvhr unit a bit much else. The head height goes from 0 to 1.4m over a 4m span so not much good for anything else. For all sorts of reasons I won't get into, one of my neatly spaced 400mm joists hit bang on with one of my posi rafters. All the rest carry between the rafters onto the roof plate. Is there a suitable hangar I could use for this purpose? Would be rafter at 25 degrees to the horizontal joist. Or am I just going to have to add a joist either side of the rafter so I don't break the "no greater than 400mm centres" rule from the engineer? Thanks!

Hi all Hoping for some guidance or moral support here. We have a void behind one of our bathrooms as in the picture, mainly due to the height of the roof. According to architect plans, I have built a stud wall as designed. My problem, if I have one(?) is that the wall hung toilet frame is so far from the rear wall (600mm) I can't attach it to it. However the very poor instructions that come with this villory and boch frame seem to be saying I can screw through the studs and into the frame to support it. But they don't supply those screws. And I think it might be referring to metal framing. My questions 1. Does it sound like I have understood the instructions correctly? 2. Am I missing an obvious way to support the frame? 3. Any suggestions to solve my problem!? Thanks!

Yes the floor build up will be about 80mm off the slab so I will need some framing. I am wondering if I can find a tray that lets me have the drain towards the left and then I get closer to the hole we will have in the slab and drop down lower into the soil pipe... I might have to just give it a try!

Oh yeah... That's a very good point.

Definitely not a stupid question! I hadn't actually considered that, a good idea. We would need to move the door entrance (none of it built yet), maybe turn it into a slider. The HWC isn't where it is shown anymore.

great simple document, thanks!

I felt like I was on the journey with you @Thorfun ha! but super helpful! The regs were a start but I struggled a little converting them to real life in those situations above. I think the shower waste in the second picture is a no-no, but I would like to avoid digging up concrete!

Hi all Having invested time reading every entry on this magnificently useful thread (50mm pipe has been drilled into my head), I thought I would post my own questions as I am still confused on a few points as I start on my own first fix waste. I have two main questions based upon my shoddy powerpoint drawing, I am hoping someone can help. 1. In my image below, can I connect pipes like this, is that what the entry points on the sides are for? The toilet will go immediately into the front of the 110mm soil pipe (assuming the frame can pipe straight out the back) which goes immediately into the ground. Washing machine and utility sink will come in from the left and toilet basin from the right. 2. In the second image (in reverse), upstairs, I have toilet, basins and shower in a line before going into a different soil pipe. Can the shower drop in below the waste pipe as I have shown as I am not sure how I would get the required fall otherwise without digging up the concrete slab first floor. Or do I have to make sure I have a 200mm gap below the soil waste for the 50mm drain? 1. 2. Thank you!!

As the OP, just to clarify I am talking first floor. Definitely dpc on ground floor concrete slab under studs as designed where I will be using concrete block and mortar as a base. Upstairs I will have about 20mm of insulation on the concrete slab just to stop some of the ufh heat travelling downwards in the slab. I think the heating will be rarely used upstairs anyway. Thanks for correcting me on the chemical reaction @JohnMo.

Thanks all, some good points here and actually, yes I should check with building control too. Will definitely have a sheet over the insulation as apparently the foil can interfere with the ufh pipes. Nice call on boarding the walls first.... Really useful, thanks everyone.

Hi all I am shortly putting up stud walls in our icf new build. We have done full concrete slab for our first floor on a metdeck. It will have insulation, ufh and screed (same as ground floor). I plan to build the stud walls before screeding due to soil pipes, ufh etc etc. I am curious, is there any need for damp proofing or even a block course for the stud walls?l on the first floor? I assume no dpc as this is first floor so no damp...but maybe need it for the screed (I will have it over the insulation). Then build stud walls entirely of timber rather than a block course underneath? Thanks for you thoughts!

Thanks @freshy, appreciated. I may well have some as we progress over the next week or so!

I think it is worth mentioning the following here. If people had have done this earlier with insulhub then a lot of us wouldn't be seriously out of pocket and having our lives turned upside down. Be aware that Jamie's wife has started two new companies just after insulhub went bust. It should be a warning to all to steer clear of company numbers KLONIX LIMITED (14785303) and OVEGO LIMITED (14785241). At least do some serious research of your own if you are involved with them.

Hi all Having been a insulhub isotex fallout victim, we are re looking at options. It feels like Jackon could be a good choice due to local builder availability (Vs nudura resource) and not entirely confident on beko. Does anyone here have recent Jackon experience or thoughts on this one? Although it is starting to feel like their is only minor (insignificant) differences between EPS style ICF options and it comes down to the builder....

I can't find any insulhub contracting contact details as it is all just Jamie. But their website, while just a template, doesn't say anything about administration. It appears employees were were with insulhub limited and didn't work for insulhub contracting.

This clarification is really helpful for those of us with little history on this forum, thank you. It makes me feel as each hour goes by that we perhaps were "lucky" to only lose our block deposit (and architect setting out fees and structural engineer fees!) and have a chance to look again at our build method.

These aren't things I have heard from others using (and completing with) isotex. Is this an opinion or fact as lots of people already nervous about next steps. To answer the earlier comment, I am nowhere near their registered business address, it won't be where they actually are right now and they don't have any listed phone numbers and in reality I have better things to do than sit outside a random place. Hence my original question to see if others were billed by IH contractors ltd or insulhub ltd.

My job for Monday!

Hi all - a question... It has been said earlier that insulhub contracting is still trading but insulhub ltd is the one in liquidation. However, I was invoiced and paid insulhub contracting in march so my money must have gone to that company....or am I missing something? Anyone else the same?

I doubt Andy will respond. I believe he is still recovering from a heart attack so probably isn't on social media of any sort. He probably isn't the best one for us to be contacting either...

Just adding myself into this thread as we have also been caught up in the insulhub saga having only paid for our blocks in mid March and now seeing that money disappear. Apparently we were buying ones sitting waiting in the yard as another client had large delays on their project. It was around the time Andy had his heart attack too... The isotex offer is ok and useful as we were weeks away from demolition (so all structural and layout drawing done) but I don't think there are any/many isotex builders with enough experience out there now. So may have to redo all of that work as well on a new build system. I struggle to believe the money isn't somewhere......