SB2023

That could work too. I guess then the plaster can feather in to that from the bead to make the wall seamlessly plastered again.

I almost re-worded my note. Just to be clear - it will be a professional plasterer doing it. He is away for a few weeks but I want to get on with prep if its feasible... Sounds like it is which is good news! Just not sure then how best to chip some of the plaster away from the plasterboard then. Maybe sliding a small chisel around...

Hi all A plastering question... I didnt really think through everything in time/properly.... We have a shadow gap (flush skirting, 25mm gap using QIC trims and then plasterboard). The walls have been boarded and plastered up to the rough opening but no door linings in yet. I am looking at fitting the door linings and using the QIC trims around the doors to create the shadow gap around the door without architraves. Can I cut back the plaster somehow, fit the trims and re-plaster neatly or is this a really bad idea?? Thanks! Doug

Thanks Mike! Appreciate the thoughts. Given me some ideas and direction!

A vertical condensation trap looks like it might completely resolve the risk here. That might open up my options and should probably be fitted regardless. Not sure why bpc didn't include/suggest it as they knew it was venting vertically through the roof!

Fair point on the airtight bit! The zehnder doesn't seem to talk about a drain on the outgoing/incoming pipework in their manual that I can see. Will look again.

Thought I would update this in case anyone stumbled upon it... Trick 1: don't roll the pipe behind you over your shoulder, this naturally makes it bend up.... Keep the pipe coil laid flat and roll out it out from the side. This is why UFH companies have those decoiler things! Trick 2: I used some large round plastic insulation washers and concrete screws to hold the really bad bits down into the concrete slab. Trick 3: as Mike said above, punch through some UFH staples. This works well when not near corners where it could lift the whole insulation and crate up. Trick 4: don't stress too much. One water is in and the screed goes over, you wonder why you worried so much.... Trick 5: don't use egg crates!

I did think about this but worried that a drain would also let air escape, it wouldn't be truly airtight if the water needs to get out?

Hi all Having a bit of space challenges with mvhr incoming supply and external exhaust pipes. It would make things a lot simpler if my exhaust pipe to outside could have a slight dip in it but I am worried if this will cause a mould/moisture collection point. Is that a concern? The pipe would come vertically out of the mvhr unit then run 1.5m with a slight downward fall (to avoid rafters) then .5m vertically up and out the roof. All of this is inside a warm insulated roof space that is effectively part of the house. Thanks!

Thanks all, interesting points! Looks like a conversation with building control before I do anything as it could potentially save a bunch of work ! Or not... Appreciated!

Hi all I cant see a similar question on the forum on this... I know no-one can give Building Regs advice but wondering if this is a daft idea or someone has something ingenious... On our new build, we have a retaining wall at the front and then a drop to the house like in the top picture and it shows where a railing would need to be. This then is quite an eyesore from the road with railings blocking out the view of the house. I am considering (see the second diagram) building another wall in front of the existing one that would just retaining a small flower bed and put the railings on that as in picture two. This would lower the railing height noticeably. Anyone got any thoughts on this at all? Or know if it should be building regs ok? The aim is to really get the railing down as low as possible and still be safe!

Hi all Having a mini meltdown in a race against the clock for screeders coming. We were specified egg crates upstairs as we only have 20mm insulation and none in some areas. I am laying the pert pipe and absolutely losing my mind. Every 90 degree corner I do causes the egg crate to lift. It goes back down easy enough if I press it but obviously it can't be like this for the screed. Am I missing a trick? Appreciate any insight!

Yes running ashp too so this also valid and true!

Noted. Super foil is out of my mind! Thanks everyone.

Thanks guys. Good point on the MVHR too! I hadnt considered that. So just ditch the insulation completely then, not worth the risk of an unstable super foil I think. Good to get some validation on this. Never know if you have talked yourself into something in your own head

its first floor just to be clear. Concrete slab on a metdeck so only reason for insulation is to stop the heat travelling downward into the first floor slab and getting a little wasted there. We were only recommended 10mm but upped to 20mm as Karndean so much thinner. There is a good chance it will barely ever turn on upstairs as we are so well insulated (ICF, triple glazed etc etc) We have PLENTY of insulation downstairs and that is all good.

Hi all We have a concrete slab upstairs and just looking at our UFH. It was a late decision to move away from radiators so we dont have a lot of build up available (78mm in total). Where we are laying karndean this is fine (20mm insulation, 50mm pipes and screed, 8mm Karndean). But in the bathrooms where we need to allow 25-30mm for final floor (tile and ditra etc), we only have 50mm left. I was considering superfoil underneath the UFH egg crates but I think this is too squishy and likely to cause the screed to crack as it compresses? So therefore thinking of leaving insulation out completely in the bathrooms and accepting a little bit of heat will transfer into the slab in those spaces. Thoughts? Thanks!!

Cool, easy enough thanks. A lot of noggins to cut and was praying I was done with them! 🤣

Hi all After a quick bit of help. The sole plate(s) on my stud walls arent going to be high enough above the insulation and screed to support the perimeter strip going around. My question is, does it need it? I assume without it there is a good chance the screed will bow the perimeter strip out or could break through. Should I put a length of ply around the base of all the stud walls as support? Or do I need to add what would basically be ground level noggins between each stud... I am currently thinking the ply would work and is necessary.... Thanks! Doug

Thank you @Nickfromwales and @Kelvin. All makes sense. Will get the bolts in and see how it is. But more confident now.

Excellent thanks @MikeSharp01. This adds more confidence. The studs are reasonably short at about 2m and connected to the top plate that connects to the rafters. It all feels pretty solid as a wall...

Thanks @markc. I guess if doing that, I might as well just double up!

Thanks @jayc89 this will solve it. And it all feels pretty solid I assume?

Hi all I have a small loft space above a bedroom that I am framing out. It is going to be used primarily for the 50kg mvhr unit a bit much else. The head height goes from 0 to 1.4m over a 4m span so not much good for anything else. For all sorts of reasons I won't get into, one of my neatly spaced 400mm joists hit bang on with one of my posi rafters. All the rest carry between the rafters onto the roof plate. Is there a suitable hangar I could use for this purpose? Would be rafter at 25 degrees to the horizontal joist. Or am I just going to have to add a joist either side of the rafter so I don't break the "no greater than 400mm centres" rule from the engineer? Thanks!

Hi all Hoping for some guidance or moral support here. We have a void behind one of our bathrooms as in the picture, mainly due to the height of the roof. According to architect plans, I have built a stud wall as designed. My problem, if I have one(?) is that the wall hung toilet frame is so far from the rear wall (600mm) I can't attach it to it. However the very poor instructions that come with this villory and boch frame seem to be saying I can screw through the studs and into the frame to support it. But they don't supply those screws. And I think it might be referring to metal framing. My questions 1. Does it sound like I have understood the instructions correctly? 2. Am I missing an obvious way to support the frame? 3. Any suggestions to solve my problem!? Thanks!