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Hmm interesting, I'll check out if there is a similar issue on mine. I'd love to build a house! I'm actually an Aussie, and it seems way way way more common to do self-builds there. I can't figure out here how to get decently priced piece of land - if you have hints let me know! 😀

Brilliant thanks, I'll do a google on the draining capabilities. And also more googling required on the mould susceptibility - we already have internal mould we are battling, and that's one thing I am hoping this insulation will improve, I certainly don't want more mould issues.

I am going to put in some cavity wall insulation in my 1980 build house. I was planning on using the beads simply due to the better insulating values. However, the last man that came around to quote spent quite a bit of time telling me what a bad idea the beads are. He said they are way more susceptible to a poor install - it's way easier to end up with patchy installation, the glue and beads flow from different outputs and it's so easy for the installer not to notice the glue not flowing and the ratios not to be correct etc. I can't remember if he talked about other mechanism to basically end up with cold patches. He said mineral wool is far superior in terms of being able to get a decent installation. Do people here have thoughts about the pros and cons of different type of materials to use for the cavity wall installation?

I'm looking at buying a composite front door. What should I consider? Below are my thoughts so far. Is there any type of construction I should consider that is better than another e.g. one method may have more warping? E.g. I see some companies do stiles and rails whereas a company like Endurance cut out their doors from one piece? Are there other methods? Are composite doors made out of different materials? Is there anything I should look for or look to avoid? I'm guessing the fit within the frame is important. Is there something I should look for with a certain manufacturer? Or it this more a reputation thing (if so any recommendations)? Or a fitting thing? I want to get a blue door so I don't want the colour to scratch off easily (particularly as I have a young child and another on the way). I'm guessing there are different ways to colour a door (e.g. I saw something about foil wrapping). What are the methods and is which is most scratch resistant? I've considered u values. From what I understand the building standards now say that they need to u=1.4. If this is correct, this is ok with me. I've decided it won't make much difference to my house but if I can get a better u-value without spending extravagant amounts more, this is a bonus. My question is, do you think any companies are actually not meeting this u value standard? I've looked at a lot of door company reviews and all the companies I have read about seem to have pretty damning reviews. Are there any companies that are clearly better (without spending in the high end bracket)? What else should I consider? Thanks in advance for any help you may have. I'm in the fairly confused stage at the moment so appreciate anyone who can give me some guidance.

11 (2 of which are bay windows) and a french door. I got some Rationel quotes but these were £25k-ish.

How do I do a fabric analysis? I have 200mm loft insulation so I suppose this u value is quite low (<0.2?) Once we get the cavity wall insulation then I suppose this will also have u values of <0.6? Floor? Not sure but my googling says this may be up to 1.2. Does this sound right? - If so, I guess the windows don't make sense to go for the extra £4k. We're changing the front and back doors also. Getting rid of the cat flap and letterbox. We're trying to also borrow a thermal camera from the council to look for weak spots. I also did some calcs later on and if I assume 0.2 delta u value, 20m2 of windows, 20 degrees difference between outside and inside for 3 months, and 10 degrees for 3 months. then 260kWh saving per year or less than £45 at the prices after the price cap goes away. So, on a price basis - not worth it if I've done this right. And I def won't feel warmer if my floor u value is that bad. So the question is then which of the others? Is there really any difference, or nothing between them I should consider?

I'm changing out all my old double glaze windows (with cracked seals etc) on my 1980 double brick detached house (with a single brick + insulation bit where they have converted the garage and I think extended a bit). I have a few different options I am trying to choose between and I was wondering if people could help me decide! Overall, I'm trying to make my house more thermally efficient and warmer but also consider costs. Liniar Energy+ 90 - triple glaze 48mm (4-18-4-18-4) - planiclear / Planitherm Total+ FG / Planitherm Total+ FG - u = 0.77, g = 0.61 wer = 29.47 - £10.3k supply only (I know a window fitter who will fit at a good day rate) Liniar Energy+ - triple glaze 36mm (4-12-4-12-4) - optiwhite / k glass s / k glass s - u = 0.97, g = 0.67, wer = 20.99 - about £6.3k supply only Rehau Total 70c - triple glaze 42mm (4-16-4-14-4) - optiwhite / k glass s / k glass s - u value just under 1 I think, still getting details £6.1k supply only Liniar Energy+ - triple glaze 36mm (4-12-4-12-4) - planiclear / Planitherm Total+ FG / Planitherm Total+ FG- u = 0.98, g = 0.61, wer = 16.2 - about £6.1k supply only In a nutshell, is it worth forking out an extra £4k to get the thicker casements and move u value down from just under 1 to 0.77? If not, which of the other options should I go for? I had been hoping the Rehau would be a better u value than the Liniar as it is 42mm vs the Liniar 36mm, however, the numbers look like they are going to be very similar (I don't know why this is the case?). I'm also getting a quote to fill the 36mm-42mm options with krypton, and this will bring the u value down to about 0.8, but I have no idea currently how much extra this will add to the quote. Considering my house (80's detached double brick which I hopefully soon will cavity fill), is it worth going for the 48mm casement? Am I going to see much difference in a place like mine? Thanks in advance to anyone who can help me work through my dilemma.

@Kelvin I know this thread is a few months old but wanted to ask - where did you get you u = 1.0 door? I am struggling to find too many suppliers even in this range. I want to get something better than the 1.4-1.6 that I have seen offered but also not go crazy and spend huge amounts of money.