gambo

@richo106 I have couple questions as your installation seems similar to what I'm planning. Why so many ducts are so close the eaves? What vents do you have outside? Is there no issue with mould/condensation when outlet from the unit go upwards?

I'm in the same boat. Leaking house and the main reason for MVHR is to supply air to smaller rooms (bedrooms and study) when clsoed. Im planning it for a year but haven't had time yet. My main reason for MVHR is that trickle vents would bring too much noise from street.

What do you mean here? Outside air to mvhr or mvhr to room? I don't have space for 150mm in soffits but mvhr -> room can be whatever I want as everything will sit in the loft. It won't filter the air in the rooms as well as mvhr and there is lots of noise coming from the road which is another reason for not opening windows. Mrs also likes idea of having cleaner air and less dust on flowers.

A bit complex situation because house was renovated small couple years ago so want to limit the damage. I really want MVHR with some nice/good filters. The reason is I want cleaner air inside + kids close doors in their bedrooms which causes lots of bad air during nights in winter. House is a usual late 80s build with loft above and positioned in such a way that in order for summer bypass to work well I need to run external ducting through the roof or sofits. 1) Can I run inlet/outlet through sofits? I think I can fit 100mm but could I split the ducting into 2x 100mm to make the flow better? I want to avoid scaffolding for lifting roof tiles. 2) Does it make sense adding MVHR unit to a leaking house? I guess I can do some improvements around windows but am not planning anything massive. I don't need a huge efficiency, it's more about getting some fresh air well filtered + some recovery of the heat. 3) Can I install MVHR working only for upstairs? I would size the unit so that we can at some point extend it to downstairs too but initially we want to do it as simply as possible and DIY (got an offer for supply and installation of £12k for 110m2 house whereas supply only is around £3k). 4) Anything specific to look at when looking for a very quiet unit? I hate noises generated by fans when trying to fall asleep? Any good places where I could see units working?

I've looked at a few and looks like a good option but how do I prevent water coming on patio?

My (small) garden is quite uneven and lower close to the house and then goes up. Now I have a new patio slabs which replaced the old concrete ones and they are put in a way that they end up around 5-8cm below lawn level further from the house? What are my options to sort it out? Trying not to spend a fortune also don't want to remove it given I've already paid a lot for laying it.

House from late 80s, with paving (probably from 80s as well) cumulating water in the middle. I want to replace it with a decking 2.4 wide x 4.2m long. I've looked at the bricks and there is something like a black material between bricks at around 16cm high from paving so I assume it's DPC. 1) Shall I remove the paving or use it as support and put DPC below it? 2) Wall plate - how much space should there be given I won't be under DPC with the plate, 3) Is there a good tool to plan it? e.g. how to optimise number of decks etc 4) What joist shall I use? Does it really need to be 150mm height joist? I would prefer it to be lower so that it doesn't add to much height.

There is a box outside the house and the virgin media cable goes through that box. i've now disconnected the VM cable going to VM box inside the house and connected to one of the extra cables going into another room and it's working fine. I have a mesh solution but it struggles, perhaps too little boxes or just the VM hub itself is poor.

I'm a bit sick of poor wifi in my house so I thought I'll try to make a use of existing cables (installed years ago by previous owners). No idea how old the cables are and but I can see lots of coaxial cables running outside of the house into sockets in most of the rooms. What's the best approach to check if they are suitable for LAN? Some of them are branded virgin media.

Why is compression fitting such a bad thing? the same principle is used at the connection with TRV

Seems like I can't make further edits. I've watched YT and found pipelife easy-lay pipes which have quite good rating (7bars for 80degree).

I'm replacing a few radiators and some of them will be in a different size, so I may need to change the pipes as well. At the moment the pipes are 10mm copper. Given it's not a straight line to TRV I'm thinking about using JG PB pipe. There are couple things that worry me: - the plastic pipe has a rating of around 3 bars for >90 degrees. I know it's still more than what the system is used but it's not way more (comparing to copper). - the plastic pipe has inner diameter same as copper but the outer is slightly bigger due to multilayers. Will it cause any issues when connecting to TRV? - TRVs are 15mm, copper 10mm so I need to use a reducer. Does it make a difference if i connect 15mm plastic to 10mm copper for the last 20-50cm rather than reducing at the trv point? - the plastic pipe requires insert at the joining point so the 10mm pipe is reduced to 6-8mm? Does this cause any issues? The other thing is that I'm willing to do it to avoid draining the system and soldering. So, ideally i would use compression fitting to connect plastic with copper and then straight to trv. But if I'm using the compression fitting then could I not just use copper on both ends with compression fitting instead of plastic?

I'm about to make sketch a plan of the house and send it to companies for quotes but I'm expecting £2-3k for the full kit (without labour) for a 4 bedroom house. I don't know yet what the best way is to lay the ducting downstair but I'm thinking about using walls upstairs. One of the rooms downstair can be tricky but it's neither living room nor kitchen, so I'm thinking about single room mvhr unit as a backup if it causes lots of issues.

So derating circuit will mean the fuse switches off before the wire gets too hot because of to thin cable being laid under thick insulation. Is this what you are suggesting? If i can stick insulation under the wires there will still be a short piece of wire (30-50cm) under insulation. Would this not cause an issue? Sorry if it's a dumb question!

What would it change?