athlonoc

I'm not aware that the FTC6 shows pressure but I could be wrong. Skipping through the menu I never came across it. My system is in the loft and I left the engineer to it. So I couldn't comment but I'd like to think he did it this way.

Well, the engineer did say the pressure in the expansion vessel was low and has re-pressurised it. So I will find out tomorrow morning. On that point, has anyone used a Bluetooth pressure sensor over the valve, so you can check instantly on an app and even get alerted when it drops below a certain level. As the valves are the same as those on cars, would a permanent pressure reading cap work?

Well, in terms of a programmer, I have set just the hot water on a timer. Twice a day, 3pm and 3am. The 3am kicks in when we are in a deep sleep and this doesn't wake us up. It's no problem changing just the stats. It does the same thing. Its controllable via the Heatmiser App so all 6 stats can be changed in a matter of seconds. The FTC6 controller is where I have programmed the HW and know I could program the CH that way too. My big issue was not being able to leave it on, while using weather compensation and forgetting it. The noise just prevents this from happening. We still get a COP of over 3 which I'm more than happy with. I have topped it up many times using the fill loop. However, its only recently that I have noticed this first thing in the morning. Since it gets up to pressure within 15 to 20 minutes I now leave it alone and no longer repressure it. I'm convinced none of this should be happening. Maybe once a year check the pressure and fill as required but not every day in the morning. Any explanation why its zero when its not been on for a few hours and then pressurises itself when the system is up and running? Also is it being suggested I keep topping up every morning to 1 bar until the day comes when the system doesn't need doing in the morning. If I keep topping it up, does this cause any issues if it gets to pressure when the system is running? There doesn't appear to be any air in the system. The two bleed valves in my original picture at the manifolds have no air. The valves in the loft of which there are about 9 dont let any air out.

As a side issue which wasn't dealt with by the service engineer due to time restrictions. Due to water flow noise in our system we have decided to turn off our heating when we go to bed at night as the noise stops us sleeping. Its been two years of poor sleep. We just turn the stats down a few degrees to ensure it doesn't call for heat. This is not the way in which we should or want to run our ASHP fuelled central heating. What I do notice other than it takes much longer to get the house to temperature 😠, is the pressure gauge every morning reads zero. Then after 20 minutes or so after the house calls for and starts flowing heat around the pipes the pressure goes up to the set bar of between 1 and 1.5bar. Is it normal for a pressured system like this to drop to zero overnight, then go up when the system kicks in?

There is a circulating pump in the loft. The rooms get warm enough, so technically I guess it's working correctly. Is there any value in just removing the actuators so the heat flow continues and then I would see if the colder elements of the pipe work do in fact warm up? I bought a thermal camera to highlight to my builder there were some issues and by chance I noticed the larger heating runs had cold areas, where I guess I was to assume the pipework would all heat up.

All 5 zones are now calling for heat and on

I have just had my Heating System serviced and asked the question about flow through my UFH I have attached two images showing the flow is not making it around the complete circuit and I have no idea why. Its a two year old system, run by a Mitsubushi Ecodan 8.5kW ASHP. I have 5 zones downstairs ( Hall, WC, Utility, Lounge, Kitchen ) and both the kitchen and lounge have what looks like two separate pipe feeds. My thermal image for the lounge shows even after the heat is pumped into the pipes for over 6 hours it still doesn't manage to flow all the way. The two blue coloured pipes in my thermal images as expected are cold but the two behind it for the lounge are warm. The heating engineer said I should try and run it with the actuators off. I'm advised that this will render the wall thermostats non operational and the flow will just continue. He also states that this will highlight if the actuator is working. Does this sound right? I also have a dense green solution dripping from both the large valves on the left in the non thermal images. It's not a constant drip, but I wiped the floor about 3 months ago and the leakage is there again. Before I fork out to get them back on a fault finding mission does anyone have any thoughts on what might be happening?

I know this is an old thread, but after looking at temperature discrepancy issues between my old slimline v2 stats and my new replacement NeoAir V3 stats, they look very much like those as above which Ultima357 suggested Heatmiser should use. It's now 2024 but maybe he had something...... I hope they thanked you Ultima357 as it appears they listened to you?

Can anyone see how to select or more tot the point know which channel my UH8-RF V2 is using? Also what are the zone switches for? I can see they are all set to 3. The others which I don't use are set to 1

Thanks for your reply. Picture attached.

I am replacing Slimline stats for NeoAir for app control. I have the UH8-RF V2 for controlling the UFH in 5 zones. Installations states you must find the Channel by looking for the two dials by which the Channel is set. I'm unable to see these anywhere inside the UH8. So taking a guess at it being one of the 99 channels, the manual states you should select the same Channel in the stat. Power - then Setup - then arrow down to P2 ( UFH control ) I can't get it to pair at all and as of yet not tried all the 99 channels. Is there a way to know what channel the UH8-RF V2 is set at where there are no black dials? Thank you Lee

Does anyone know if the Slimline V2 thermostats are capable of being seen by Home Assistant to monitor room temperatures. Not sure if I need to upgrade to the Neo stats or not?

Hi Beelbeebub, Well spotted and thank you. I have now informed them that what they left me with and to be honest it's a schoolboy error on their behalf.

I hope these are the three you mentioned. FTC - Main Control Panel - Isolator switch for ASHP? Thanks - report back once done

Also forgot to mention that when it started doing this again 2 days ago, the radiators were luke warm. I only noticed this as I got my towel from the towel radiator and noticed it then! Does this point to something. My controller also constantly shows the play symbol on the hot water, which indicates it permanently trying to heat the water to 48. It's as though it hasn't finished it's attempt to heat to 48. Is there a way to stop it from doing this?

The Bin Man-Thanks for the reply, yes it's had its annual maintenance and last one was 6 months ago. I'll call them today if this doesn't get resolved. PhilT- Can you confirm how to power down. I've seen this video and followed it a couple of times before. The soft reset is done but that isn't having the desired effect. akjos- No I didn't but will do that now and then see what happens Thank you all Lee

Hi all, I have had a dozen L9 errors since my install about 18 months ago. In that time I have a one full service. The L9 error I'm well aware of it being a flow rate issue. Around June of this year I had a random L9 error and just reset the controller and all was well again. July this year it happened again twice so I called out the installers ( they have gone bust but running under a different name ) On that point the guys who worked for this company are still local and were laid off with a days notice but one of them is a mitsibushi tech guy. I have no doubt the installation was carried out fine. My neighbour has the mirror of my new build and he has the identical system to me and installed by the same installers. The now defunct company sent out a nice chap who wasn't proficient in Mitsibushi heat pumps. He checked the filters but was unsure how to resolve and left with an open ticket to do some research. This isn't what I need and will endeavour to push for a mitsibushi heat pump professional. In the mean time I was not able to call for heat after he left and no hot water went to the tank. Every 10 mins or so the L9 error happened. Then I noticed the pressure in the system was around zero ( this I guess is because the engineer they sent over flushed or check the two filters which I guess would have dropped the pressure and he didn't re-pressurise )!! Anyway I've re-pressurised it to 1.6 bar as per mitsibushi's guidance and still it L9 error's Now to the bit that has confused me and why I'm here. I have changed the source of power to immersion in the service setting by altering the setting on the controller from 'standard' to 'heater' This engaged the system and does actually heat up the tank. So all I can say is that there is a lot of stuff up in the loft. I've bypassed the ASHP heating the water up but something up in my loft where all the gear is, is not working correctly. Any thoughts before I call out someone detached from the company who is honouring the warranty install but has since gone bust!!

Just a secondary question with the MEL Cloud App. Both zones (zone 1 and 2) appear to be on indicated by a sun symbol. But all of zone 2 (downstairs UFH) is at room temp so shouldn't be onand isn't according to the FTC6 controller but is according to the Mel Cloud App. Zone 1 is the upstairs rads and it's this stat that is set to heat upstairs at a higher temp but is cutting out on this occasion. The app shows two room temps at 22.5 and the set temp at 20. Can you confirm if they should or can override the rooms stats around the house? Reason I ask this is when looking at the summery settings on the FTC6 , page 2 of that menu has two temperature settings - HRoom1 & HRoom2 These temp settings change when the settings on the app are changed for each zone. So are these independent temp settings from the actual room stats?

It has been used before and appeared to work ok during last winter although it was only installed from December 22 So this is it's second winter.

I believe I do have a buffer tank The buffer being a second tank and is much smaller than the main tank? Is that right. And if yes to buffer then I'm not aware that it is controlled, just the main system.

Hi, I have just tied out for the first time this winter but coming up against a problem. Heatmiser stat is set to 26 and room is 20 Flame appears on the stat The FTC6 controller shows the play symbol and after a short while the ASHP icon appears Check the ASHP outside and it's on. However after about 2 to 3 minutes the ASHP stops. The ASHP symbol disappears on the FTC6, yet the flame on the stat stays on and the play symbol on the FTC6 stays on play. Any thoughts why this might be happening. The stat is next to the RF switch so it's not out of range. Pressure in the system is at 1bar Thanks Lee

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Indeed I agree, but in my case the UFH is on one feed and the upstairs ( radiators) are on a separate feed. I guess as with much of this stuff, it depends on the individual, the type and size of house, how you perceive the cold/warm and type of system you have running. All in all I think I wanted to try and understand was whether getting a separate electronic thermostat attached to towel rail was a good way forward to heat just that one small on-suite room despite the installers telling me to leave it all alone as it will mess around with the COP/SCOP readings. They also advised against setting a timer for my hot water. ( another story )

Hi all and thanks I hear what pro Dave says and yes I understand - my misunderstandings and thought that too, that heat in that towel radiator would get lost once the system pushes ASHP heated water about(upstairs only) JohnMo, thanks - Is there any specific make and model to consider for a 500 x 1600 towel radiator? AliG - Thanks, yes I have 5 stats for 5 rooms with UFH, all downstairs. I have no issue with these and all set to 21 as that's our desired comfort of heat all doors open and we don't touch it. - Perfect I guess. The upstairs as stated is just the one stat. Its battery operated and I took it off the wall and mounted onto a cradle so I could move it about as it was originally at the top of the stairs. This was where most of the downstairs heat came from and caused that upstairs stat to believe the whole upstairs was at that temp which isn't correct. So putting it onto a cradle meant the main two rooms we use upstairs ( Bedroom and onsuite ) we had more temperature control. It lives either in our bedroom or our on-suite. However neither of us like overly warm bedroom hence why were quite happy with the residual heat from the downstairs to fill the upstairs bedroom. It's almost perfect but what it doesn't do well is give us a warm on-suite first thing in the morning or when having a shower. If we put the portable stat just in the on-suite and set that to say 23 or 24 degrees, it will get there eventually but it will mean turning all the other upstairs radiator stats to off, otherwise the whole house overheats. There will be occasions when coldness of winter truly sets in that we might want the upstairs radiators to come on for a while. I can't fault the idea of modern full electric Air Source Heating for water and house but it doesn't have that instant push of heat from Gas or Oil. So I thought I could put an electric element into the towel radiator to give the towel radiator some heat on a timer, it wouldn't impact the rest of the house but I guess that it's not the most efficient way to heat water.

My home and water is heated via a mitsibushi ASHP. Its less than a year old and wanted some advice for the forthcoming winter as we struggled to get the balance right when we moved into our home in January this year. The house also has UF heating downstairs and rads upstairs. It seems the general flow of heat from downstairs keeps upstairs warmish and we found running the stats downstairs at 21 stopped the need for the upstairs rads to come on. However the on suite which is tucked away is off our main bedroom and away from the main flow of heat in our house and has a towel radiator with no thermostatic valve on it. For us to make this room heat up we would need to turn off the radiators upstairs and put the single portable stat in the on suite to make it heat up and ramp that up to say 22 or 23 degrees. So I wondered what anyone's thoughts were putting an electric thermostatic valve on this towel radiator. I can't help but think an electric 300w or 400w TRV could be cheaper to heat up than a single towel radiator using the CH system to pump hot water to just that rad. As I've come to learn ASHP heating systems take an eternity to generate heat but once done in a well insulated home it seems very good. Does this impact the heat of the water in the rest of the CH pipework upstairs? What stops the heated water in the towel radiator seeping into the rest of the water in the system?