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GaryChaplin

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  1. Good choice, Carpenter Oak have been established for ages, highly reputable. I guess you were going for an un-cluttered look and hence the metalwork for lateral bracing?
  2. Going well thanks, it's just so time consuming as I'm attempting to do everything myself, which I've took a little too far. e.g, turning trees into flooring and doors! Looks like your frame is going together at last.
  3. I thought I'd jump back on here and stumbled across this thread. I'm a fair way into my self-build, but I'd be keen on meeting up with you guys in mid-Suffolk next time.
  4. It's not hard to insulate at all. Just create an continous insulation envelope on the outside. My self-build has walls under 0.12 W/m²K.
  5. Just thought I'd follow this up to say that the inspection engineer said this only applies to underground work, what you do in your house is up to you.
  6. OK, so I've heard back from Anglian Water asking for a citation, apparantly this 'ruling' is from the "The Water Supply (Water Fittings) Regulations 1999." Quote: "The requirement is a safety measure when installing pipework internally and externally as per The Water Supply (Water Fittings) Regulations 1999. These regulations are a legal requirement to keep water quality safe. The regulations include information on how external pipework and internal plumbing must be installed and maintained and these are similar in nature to Building and Gas regulations." So I looked, nothing there referring to 350mm distances https://www.legislation.gov.uk/uksi/1999/1148/contents. Nevermind, I'll just pretend they are a knowledgeable authority and change my plans!
  7. Would be good to know where this is referenced in the BC regs.
  8. Thanks. I've just asked Anglian Water, so we'll see what they say. Seems a bit ridiculous once it's in the house.
  9. Hi all, I'm putting the mains water supply into my build, following the guidelines from Anglian Water. But I'm unclear on how close the water supply can be to the mains supply when it is within the building? The only guidance I have is that it cannot be less than 350mm, but I thought this was just underground. "Note: Your water pipe must be at least 350mm away from all other utilities." Can anyone provide any clearer guidance, quoting building regulations perhaps? Surely water cannot be kept away from mains power throughout the inside of the building? Thanks, Gary
  10. Yes, but only becuase the manufacturer made an unbelivable number of mistakes! Nearly resolved all the issues, but I'm not going to give the full story until it's sorted!
  11. I chose Reynaers as they are technically superior to the Origin in triple glaze spec. Reynaers have frames that support 44mm units, which provide better u-values. However, choose wisely for the manufacturer as I had a whole host of problems, which are still being resolved....
  12. The system to use is called "direct glazing", "applied glazing", "face glazing" or "curtain walling". Pick one! https://sessile-oak.co.uk/oakFrames/glazing
  13. Well said. I should imagine many are on this resource for basic information and have no intention of retaining the knowledge, and, for example, becoming a heating engineer. It's very easy for knowledgeable people to be condescending, which will only deter further questions. I probably do that all the time in my trade without realising it.
  14. Thanks Alan, it is low, which is what I was hoping. Walls and roof are in the region of 0.1 W/m²K, with triple glazing throughout I'm hoping it will heat itself! We are having a woodburner, but am omitting that as don't always want to have to light it, albeit having an unlimited source of free oak!
  15. From memory it was to do with a bigger unit having to switch on & off, which is less efficient than a smaller unit working steadily. I just need to know the basics as want to make a reasonably informed decision.
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