osprey

An interesting idea, and I would imagine it would be a lot better than nothing! I believe part of the subfloor ventilation in houses of that age came through the gaps between the floorboards in the wooden floor itself. Later house with T&G flooring tended to have more airbricks.

I am just going through the same process. My integrated extractor fan (Kneff) came with lightweight butterfly flaps to prevent back drafts. They fit on the fan outlet to the ducting, are small, came in a separate packet, and are easy to miss. Are you sure your fan does not have them? I was wondering if this was sufficient, as I have a couple,of meters of 150mm solid ducting to the outside wall, and I would rather not have cold air in there when the fan was not running. The same company that does the Bullnose vent mentioned by Spinny also does s/s vents with backdraft prevention. I also wondering how much they compromise performance. https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B09H5DTS9D/ref=twister_B09P4KVWW6?_encoding=UTF8&th=1

Having seen a wall that I had filled with Eps beads partially taken down for an extension build, I agreed with the nook and cranny part!

I think I have found it, or at least it looks the same. Thanks all! https://www.wrekinproducts.com/products/access-covers/recessed-trays-floor-finish/38mm/c271m060045

Thanks for replies. Those hooks look about what I had in mind. I have done picture searches, but nothing comes up. Maybe a chat at a drainage merchant,mas you say.

Hello you helpful lot. Any guidance on how to lift this drain cover (picture attached)? Is it latched in some way, or is it 'just' a matter of getting the correctly shaped tools into the holes and lift? IS there a special tool/key for the job? I have tried a robust screwdriver, but cannot get any lift. Thanks in advance!

Lower power consumption to meet regs.

Thanks. I went for 2400 in the end (as I had not seen any replies) so I am glad I withing your range. 300mm downstand looks about right.

I am having an extension built to make a kitchen diner (8 x 5) where the 'diner/dayroom' part will be approx 5 x 5. I will be having lift and slide patio doors. The doors are aluclad, as I like the chunky frames, and it fits with the 1920s period of the rest of the house. I can't make up my mind on the height of the sliders though. I know it is personal preference, but any thoughts? Sliders will be 3m wide, ceiling height 2.7m. The rest of the house windows (bays etc) go full height, but have toplights. I want a bit of a downstand and full height would too much imo. The frame is getting on 200mm wide at the top, before the glass is reached. I am thinking 2.4m high aperture (glass to 2.2m) so 300mm downstand but that seems a lot of glass! (Urban setting, but not overlooked, garden 23 x15 meters) Too high? Too low?

Ah, I changed my search terms and founf that this has been asked a few times before....

The plan is to have a 2 panel, triple glazed sliding door set (3 x 2.4m, U-value <1) on the new extension. This will be facing SW. Would it be worth getting an extra solar coating to reduce heating effect? I was considering it for double glazing, but I imagine triple glazing reduces the issue anyway. This would be in addition to the normal e-glass coating, of course. Also, for anybody who has had it done - is the additional tint noticeable? I would probably have voiles to reduce glare, anyway.

Yeah, when they quoted, the LV installers assumed they would be doing the 'double' pour, but they said they were happy if the UFH installers did the first one. (They checked, and said they use the 'same one as Wunda recommend', but I didn't know Wunda recommend two at that stage).

Great reply, thanks for the detailed help. I am really worried about not having a warm room, after all this work, but also worried about not taking the opportunity to have UFH where possible. (Even my architect has Wunda in and extension she did for her own similar age house). As I have already got 30mm height buildup, and I would want to insulate under the existing floors whatever the heating system anyway (100mm celotex), adding retrofit UFH seemed an obvious next step. The plan is to have the 'new solid floor' diner part of a separate circuit to the 'suspended floor' kitchen, as different heat loss, as you say, but also cooking generates it's own heat... Doing the hallway as well (while leaving radiator in place) was a more speculative idea - main heating by the radiator, but some radiating heat from the floor as background for now, but UFH heating in place should I get around to further insulating the rest of the house (e.g. with EWI). I appreciate balancing would be an issue, even with this relaxed requirement. But just the new kitchen/diner as UFH would be great, but a catastrophe if I had to rip it up to reinstall radiators! With the screed, I am told it would take two layers to get the right depth. The builder could do the first layer, or the Amtico installer could do both. Not sure if the Amtico installer could/would use the Mapei stuff. (WRT plinth heaters, is there no problem with hot air >>27⁰ being blown across the surface of Amtico?)

I think that is overstating it a bit. Just to be clear, in the new kitchen diner it is ONE system over two floor types - insulated solid and insulated suspended (the uninsulated solid part is small enough to leave out).

Using the in-screed system in the new extension was my first thought, but: 1) Amtico flooring must not be heated above 27⁰, so Wunda supply a temperature sensor for the floor. Not sure if this would work for screed, but even if it did, the 'access' pipe lay to the extension would run with the surface mount stuff across the kitchen, and may get too hot 2) Having a mix of UFH and radiators AND a mix of floor types put me off having a mix of UFH systems as well!