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SilverShadow

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  1. Re: the last post - AI says no. So I guess that's settled that part 😉
  2. Ps, are there any compatibility issues with linking any old external sounder box up to the alarm panel? 🤔
  3. Wow, thanks for the advice guys 😁 I think my AI skills are lacking in that dept. When I did try it the Texecom one was suggested to me. Which is where the OP originated from I will definitely take a look at those suggestions. I have an electrician friend, so we were looking at options of self install, if it was a possibility The idea of wireless sensors really suits our needs. Especially if we're looking to link them up to one in the outbuilding at the bottom of the garden. Doesn't have to be graded, but it helps Thanks again 😁
  4. Cheers Ragg - most useful Out of interest, does anyone have any manufacturers or models i should consider or avoid? For me, this will be invaluable when speaking to an installer - if they pick a quality firm/device then i'll know they are potentially savvy. It'll also help me decide what options/setup i can request
  5. Thanks guys - most helpful For the record, it doesn't have to be Texecom by any means. I only selected it due to what i'd read online, but happy to consider anything reliable and cost effective. What we're after is: Alarm & Sounder - wired to mains for power Separate keypad - wired or battery for power, wireless connectivity to panel 4 or 5 Wireless motion sensors and maybe similar for door/window sensors One motion sensor will be 20m away from the alarm, in an outbuilding Pet friendly 2 or more areas If it has a free app, then great - but not a biggie if not No subscription fees Reliable / well built We just want a decent system for a normal home, rather than Fort Knox
  6. Yip, yip - we would get a professional to do the hard work for us. However, i always like to have a good basic knowledge of what to ask for, so we don't end up over/under spec-ing the system
  7. Hey gang, This is probably a very niche subject, so maybe not many have any experience of this...... We're looking to install a new security system (full system) & it seems like Texecom have a very decent range of suitable products. The only snag is, they have a large range of products, and it's a bit confusing which one is most suitable without doing overkill Does anyone have any knowledge/experience of these products, please? I'm looking at maybe the premier elite 24, with one of their wired sounders, wireless keypad and up to 8 wireless sensors (one of which will be in an outbuilding up to 20m away from the panel). I presume the Elite 24 handle this without the need of the Ricochet Expander? 🤷‍♂️ TIA Shadow
  8. Sorry guys, been a manic few weeks 😅 I dunno if an indemnity would cover a WBS or not. Our last house we got 1 for the windows, but a potential fire hazard is a different matter altogether We had a fireplace fitter around & he thinks we won't need HETAS (as the outbuilding is exempt of BR). However, we'd likely ask for 1 anyway, to be safe with insurance or if we ever sell The stove we're after has built in heat shields, allowing 100mm rear & 200mm side clearances to combustibles, with a 12mm hearth. So I think we will hopefully be ok Thanks again for the advice guys Shadow
  9. Cheers for the input guys Apologies, but had a busy few days, so unable to respond until now.... In response to the above: 1) Alas, i don't think there is an existing HETAS certificate - the previous owner did a self-install (single flue pipe through breeze block wall). Although the outbuilding strictly doesn't need it (as it's not subject to B Regs,), i wanted to obtain one, from an insurance point of view (if the unthinkable happened, and i needed to claim) 2) Agreed, i was planning on using a HETAS certified company/person to undertake this. However, to save on cost i wanted to build up the fireplace & let them just sort the stove/flue. As part of this, i was hoping they could certify the fireplace during the install. If i did the install myself then i'd need BC to sign it off (i guess)< as i can't find any companies that specialise in inspection/approval 🤷‍♂️
  10. Ie, me! 😁 Hey folks, please forgive my naivity, but a couple of quick Q's around HETAS certification, if you would indulge me, please 1) In terms of obtaining a certificate for an existing wood stove/flue/hearth system - can any authorised fireplace installer inspect & grant certification? 2) if not a fireplace installer, then is there a recognised trader/entity who can undertake this? 3) if so, does anyone have a ballpark figure for inspection/approval? (Afaik, the certificate itself is approx £36) This is purely from a research perspective, for potentially renovating an old stove in an outbuilding (which is exempt from building regs) Many thanks for your time 😁 Shadow
  11. Ps, regarding your last paragraph: may I ask how long (or how many) systems you've used it on Just helps give me a perspective of reliability 😉
  12. Cheers, Simon - very sound advice! 😁 I'd not heard of it before, but this plumber swears by it. He's invested in the tooling - which means he has the kit & know how. Although probably means he'd push this as his preferred option regardless I was concerned about the joints - I've heard push fit on plastic pipew can give over time & leak. I presume with these, having them sealed on the inside is preferable to anything push fit & will be sturdy enough From what I gather, this has been used on the continent for a while, and also on commercial heating. So (to me) it definitely sounds robust enough. Being slightly insulated probably also helps with any freezing problems too 👍 My only concern is: if in the highly unlikely scenario of needing to maintain it later (eg: some leak), it would limit options on emergency plumbers We'd be looking to extend the heating layout later (after house extension), which I presume would be easy enough to do with this set up A good many plumbers shun it, and I'm trying to figure out what (if any) disadvantages there are. Or if they're just old skool & stick to what they know Plenty of useful info to consider tho mate 👍
  13. Indeed - the last one i mistakenly put in the wrong thread, so opened this one here
  14. Hi there, We're looking to replace our CH system from the Jurassic era. This will involve installing a new combi boiler (to replace old gravity fed boiler) & 8 double radiators (replacing the old single panel ones). As the system is so old (i'd guess >30yrs at least, probably 40+) we imagine it'll need a whole new pipework system (especially as the combi will be in a different location), so plan to replace the old pipes One plumber mentioned using MLCP - has anyone any experience of this type of pipework? While it's cheaper & more flexible, i wasn't sure if anyone had concerns over durability and if the connection joints degraded over time with systems like a combi? We'll probably end up with copper pipes & soldered joints, but always worth asking around before making a choice - Pros & cons are always worth thinking about up front! Thanks for your time & thoughts Shadow
  15. Cheers, Gus - very appreciative of you taking time out to explain all this to us. I'm not bad at most DIY stuff, and despite doing Tech Drawing many years ago, a house extension goes way beyond my mere mortal skills. We're opting to go with this company: https://planning-by-design.co.uk/ Our reasons being: All-in-one, solution - so there should (in theory!) be minimal issues with mis-communication & time delays between parties, prior to commencing construction We prefer to let somebody else take the strain with the design aspect - they're the experts & should know all the wrinkles, and ultimately be responsible & have the know-how for planning submission / approval & revising the design if approval is not granted The photos below, perhaps gives another insight into our proposal, as it shows the orientation of houses & rough size & scale of the extension. It's a good point about curtilage, but as you can see - the extension is almost completely built upon the existing garage (shown in red), so shouldn't increase the footprint. The only slightly contentious bit, is extending the garage front (1st pic - shown in green, which is approx 0.5m by 3m of extra footprint). Being flush might bend the subservient roof rule slightly, but if the pitched roof is lower than the main dwelling i'm hoping we'll be ok. I'm not 100% sure, but i'd guess our chimney will need an extra 1-2m of height, to accommodate the new pitched roof area Appreciate that pics can sometimes give a slightly skewed perspective, but these (imo), give a reasonably clear illustration of how our extension would avoid any terracing effect. I think they also underline how much lower than our neighbours the extension will be, so won't impact their light too badly In the meantime, i need to make sure we arm ourselves with plenty of examples of nearby properties where side extensions are flush with the front profile, and formulate clear documentation as to the reasons why our proposal should be approved. The draining (hopefully) won't be too much of an issue - there's a downpipe between to the garage/front bay window (in the green area of 1st pic) for the front roofing, and an old downpipe (disused) at the back corner of the property. Provided these are still in good working order we should hopefully have this aspect covered Thanks again, buddy - really invaluable stuff you;ve shared with us
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