Transition

That is incredible fortunate indeed. One of the biggest issues is the lake of information the heat-pump provides. You'll definitively will have better control over the unit and whats more the new unit is more cost effectively ;-)) Enjoy!

Hi Reed, We had our remote controller updated last year. This was done by the same company that installed our heat-pump. We did it for the same reason you described. However, the functional result is null. That is because the heat-pump doesn't provide the triggers/ information for the remote. So no new information is displayed 😞

Sorry for the late response. I got this from a modbus steering. COP is actually the ratio of the magnitude of the heat given off to the (hot) water and the amount of energy needed to do this (power consumption). The flow/ minute (actually per hour, hence the x 60) represents the amount of water that is heated. The 1.16 has something to do with the amount of energy needed to heat a liter of water. It represents a moment in time and the actual COP on that specific moment. It is not us full in calculating the seasonal COP, or COP over al longer period.

I expect it to be a compromise. We like the house warm at the beginning of a (work)day. We work at home most of the time. And we tend to feel the "cold" more when sitting behind our desk. So shorter response time is welcome. This morning it was about 0 degrees when we woke up. Started with a target temperature of 40 degrees. Took a while but house (living room) is warm now. The COP today was reduced 3.9. Last weeks used to be somewhere between 4 and 5. Where COP = (flow per minute x delta T x 60 x 1,16) / power consumption in kW

This morning test with water temperature of 36 degrees and outdoor temperature 9, turns out to be too low. So I'll stick with 37. That's one point of the weather compensation line established. This weekend temperatures will go below zero over here. Next opportunity.

You're right that mainly because of the interlinked settings it is not always clear what the effect of the different settings is. I'm slowly building a better understanding. Now if I change a setting, the effect is actually what I pursue, or had hoped to achieve. LG's manuals describe every setting, but not in a way that it's completely self explanatory. It's trail and error and learning by doing. I've reached out to a couple of suppliers. But found no one with in depth knowledge. Great that @ReedRichardssettings are working nicely with your heat pump and characteristics of your house. Hope you'll reach a moment in time that there comes an end to the tweaking. I hope that after this winter, I've achieved a stable situation.

That's good advise. Already started a run this afternoon with a target temperature of 37. Still works fine. Than again outdoor temperature was slightly higher. Tomorrow another step. I understand the principle of Weather Compensation💪

What I know is that the radiators are designed to heat the living room to 21 degrees. The water temperature in is 50 degrees and out is 45. This should be to at least -10 outdoor temperature. On top of that I know the wattage (is that English?) each radiator is able to supply at 50 degrees water temperature. At the current circumstances (outdoor 10 degrees) a water temperature of 38 is sufficient to reach indoor temperature of 21 degrees (easily). This is going to be our first winter with the heat pump installed. But we tested for two years with our previous central heating (gas) system, set to a max of 12 kW and a water temperature of 45 degrees. We never had problems heating the house and we had cold periods of at least -10 at night and during daytime also below zero. At the moment I'm experimenting with a fixed water temperature. When it gets colder, I'll increase the water temperature to a level that delivers the target room temperature. This way I expect to define the (what you call) the weather compensation line for our house.

Thanks for your speedy reply! Our situation has some things in common. We have the same Heat pump (12 kW), use radiators only and use third party thermometer. British houses, especially the more traditional ones, have due to the thicker walls, better insulation. So on that part I will have to make corrections. And outside temperatures are probably a bit lower here in winter. It can get to -5 (and extremely to -10). But apart from these parameters, your settings will give me a head start. Thanks for sharing.

We do keep notes when we change settings. It helps me enormously when changes don't work out as I expected. Makes it easier to go back to old settings. And whats more, I usually only change one setting a time. A bit of topic, but we do switch off some standby devices each night. Such as TV, Internet radio, soundbar, coffeemaker (we don't drink coffee at night ;-)). Turns out we save about 300 kWh per year. At current electricity rates over here (GBP 0.88/ kWh) we yearly save about GBP 265.

@ReedRichards our AI settings differ a little. May I ask how the climate is in Berwick-upon-Tweed? How cold/ warm does it get in winter and autumn. Based upon that I can start changing your setting to work over here. I was using AI, but as you wrote "it is trying to run before you can walk". It didn't result in a comfortable temperature at every outside temperature. So we switched it of. At the moment I'm using a set water temperature. As you, we are using a third party thermostat. Mainly because the hysteresis the LG remote offers is too big. We keep getting overshoots and as @Ronnyexperienced, the living room cooled down to much after the overshoot. Do you have underfloor heating, or just radiators? What type of LG Heat-pump do you have?

Before buying a new remote, you could check with LG. You've possibly still got warranty?? You can reach them at ae.svcsupport@lge.com. Just a thought.

That shouldn't be to difficult. It's connected only with 1 plug/ three wires at the backside of the remote.

Found some more, even cheaper: https://www.orionairsales.co.uk/lg-air-conditioning-premtb100-standard-iii-hard-wired-remote-controller-in-white-9843-p.asp https://aircon-online.co.uk/product/standard-iii-wired-remote-controller/

By "remote" do you mean the LG PREMTB100? If so, I found this. Don't know if the price is competitive, but the sell the remote separately. https://www.lgcomfortcooling.com/products/premtb100-encxcom

@Ronny Have you been able to reduce the offset bases on the hysteresis settings? Over here it's relatively warm, so testing the effect of setting changes is restricted. Maybe the same in County Durham? Let me know if I can help!

And part 2 1819152027_LGThermaVServiceManualMFL68682007GM1217(settingsdebug)part2.pdf

Look what I stumbled into 😉 This manual describes besides settings, also error codes and possible solutions. Found some information that is new to me! hope this helps. Because of the maximum up loadable size, I split the document in two parts. Have fun. 646403533_LGThermaVServiceManualMFL68682007GM1217(settingsdebug)part1.pdf

The lowest for water is -2 and +2. The lowest for air is -0.5 and + 1.5. Which isn’t too accurate also.

This may answer why hysteresis is high when using the LG Remote (PREMTB100) There are four settings to adjust hysteresis: TH on/off Variable, heating air TH on/off Variable, heating Water And then there is also a setting for "TH on/off Variable, cooling Air" and "TH on/off Variable, cooling Water". As @Ronny doesn't use cooling, I didn't add the data. Using Type0 for Air and Type3 for Water (if not already) may reduce hysteresis. Alternatively use, like @ReedRichards does, a third party thermostat and set "Select Temperature Sensor" to "Water" (in stead of "Water + Air"). Third party thermostats have hysteresis as low as 0.2.

Learning more and more about LG HP. Copying settings from other installations/ locations may not have the desired effect. My opinion: if it works fine/ good enough, don't touch it 😉

This manual is very helpful! Especially regarding settings and how they effect the HP. Thanks for sharing! Point of attention is that is refers to U33/ U43 and U44 types, monoblock and split. This is not always clear when reading the information. Sometimes remarks have been added (see blow e.g.). This is not an issue, just good to realise when reading.

Between 4 and 6 o'clock, 6 times on, is about every 20 minutes. Which is okay if there was a heat demand during the night. Looking at the short time the HP was on, it doesn't have to mean there's a buffer (or volume) issue. We had the same a couple of weeks ago. We solved it by setting the room temperature back to 15 C during the night (setting Temperature Sensor is on Water+Air). What puzzles me, is that the HP stopped heating after about 8 o'clock. What changed there?

You're right, have not found this in any documentation and I've read a few 😉 We've been experimenting with a third party thermostat (Google Nest). Downgrades the heat pump to an on/off system. Had hoped to solve a couple of issues (hysteresis -2/ +2, an easier way of setting room temperature and a more understandable response). In our situation it didn't bring what we had hoped. In order to use the third party thermostat dip switch 8 has to be set to on and than certain settings are greyed out. So back to the LG standard thermostat (PREMTB100). @ReedRichards thank you for sharing the Product and Installation Manual!! Haven't seen this manual befor. I'm sure it will help in a better understanding.

Looking at your LWT (30 and 47) and Outdoor temp auto mode (-5 and 27) settings; did the heat pump ever reach 45 C? As far as I understand now, this will only be the case if outdoor temperature is below -5. Don't know how cold it gets in County Durham, over here we need a higher water temperature. Do you use additional heating?