agamemnon

So I don't know how to check the chimney stack, as I don't want to fall down checking it. I am based in hampshire, no mining close to where I live (as far as I know). Tiles has had asbestos check done, as had artex ceiling as well, both negative. Okay, great, would builders check the chimney stack, as the surveyor's aren't, and firestove installers mainly would take a picture.

So everyone who is a damp surveyor went to a secret conference/holiday and can't get anyone closeby booked until at least next week. One of my questions, does it matter if a dedicated "damp survey" needs to be undertaken, where you pay £100-150 for the survey, they then give you a quote for the work and if you go ahead you pay the additional difference. Or would you get a damp proofer, who looks at it and says "likely problems with damp proof course, this is the price...", from the sounds noone is going to go up to the roof to check, or do anything intrusive beyond visual inspection and moisture meter reading. Or am I missing something about "damp surveys" and there is more to it? For an update anywhere near the socket the moisture meter readings were 20-22% I took an hammer and chisel and removed all the cement and just above the floor level, moisture is more increased below and close to the socket instead of the chimney area.

There were a couple of factors. Firstly as we going to have laminate flooring without any carpets we want a warmer floor, secondly it is more energy efficient, thirdly our pipes aren't in the floor but are mounted to the wall and coming down from the ceiling, so no more pipes. I disagree that it is not suitable, but it is personal preference. I may have to raise door lintels mainly, as calculating the u-value, the minimum thickness i require is 40mm. So overall size will be 85mm height changes in elevation, I am not fussed about ceiling height reduction as smaller volume to heat up, but mainly about the door heights.

The built is 1960s semi bungalow. From my understanding and looking at the old floor plans, it's concrete, screed, bitumen and then marley tiles. Doesn't look like any floor insulation. I will certainly use the U-calculator. thanks for that. My subsequent question is, I am thinking of going for the Wunda Rapid Response, which are 20mm thick, am I required to add another layer of insulation below the boards? If I am adding another layer of insulation below the UFH boards, should I only consider the Insulation's U value of combine the Insulation and UFH boards? I am certain, that I will use the board system instead of the plastic sheets and screed one. My final question is, as there will be a 8-10cm difference in the height, should I have my doors bottom cut, or have the lintels above the doors moved higher up?

@twice round the block On the other side of the wall is the neighbours living room, missus went over and and told me they have a bookcase there, no boiler or radiators nearby. @joe90 Yes, will do that.

So the handyman will let us know about someone who can check the roof and chimney. We believe we are at the same level and house is above external ground. I am thinking of getting a moisture meter Protimeter seems to be standard, can I get any? E.g. brennenstuhl from Amazon?

Thank you. So, how do I decide about the thickness for the insulation below the UFH? Prior to our decision of wanting the UFH, we bought 5mm XPS, and 10mm laminate, the wunda system which is 16mm, a insulation thickness 10mm? And then dpm plastic sheet?

Thanks for the welcome @joe90 @Roundtuit

So none of the walls are external, one was historically but there is a conservatory on one side of the living room, then kitchen & hallway, third wall next to a bedroom, fourth and final is the party wall. @Radian So I had two wood burner installers after the handyman with the potrimeter, the handy man also said it could be the chimney, both chimney sweepers/stove installers said it’s likely coming from the floor or other side. Handyman went to the neighbours and their walls are in good condition.

Thanks So with a room height of 2.4m what kind of insulation would I be looking at. Reading this forum values of 100mm are being mentioned which means 10cm, but I am not sure if that is in a new build house or a retrofit. The flooring is concrete, bitumen DPM and then marley tiles as floor level. It would be good if there is either a tagged threat, which would be a tutorial of what to look for, especially as different values including delta and so on are thrown around. I am not familiar and would like to know what they mean. I am able to measure the volume of a room, and the BTU, but not sure how that translates to UFH.

Hello, We are considering to get rid of our radiators and wanted to retrofit UFH, we want to go ahead with Wunda's products and I wanted to double check what the difference is with using the board based Wundatherm rapid response, against the Screed based kits? As the screed based kits are cheaper, can they be used for a retrofit? Any advantage vs disadvantage of one system over the other apart from the costs?

Hello, We recently moved into a 1960s semi bungalow, we stripped the wallpaper and removed some of the outdated skirting boards, interestingly enough one of the skirting board was completely rotten and had some mould on it. The living room shares a party wall with the neighbouring house, their layout is mirrored, hence they also have a living room on the other side of the party wall. We had someone come in with a protimeter and the reading were at least 11%, we aren't sure what the cause for the dampness is, and want to have it investigate further, there is a chimney on the same side, but the chimney plaster is in generally good condition without any sign of flaking or loose plaster. The floor has marley tiles, with no issues of them becoming loose. The DPM is bitumen and the marley tiles level the whole floor. All the waterworks runs on the other side of the property, so none of the pipework is theoretically close, however, I can't confirm this, because when I tried to turn off the main water supply, the stop valve started leaking, so reverted it to the original position and need to get that replaced to check for any leaking. Any advise would be appreciated. Including some pictures.

Hi there, New to this forum, first time buyer, moved into my property, complety stripped it bare and looking for ideas on UFH and also wanted to get advise on a damp issue in the party wall, which is very peculiar. Nice to be here!