Philxyz

I spent a long time doing the airtight membrane myself so it is quite annoying to have had this happen. As a first time builder I am shocked at how hard it is to find decent builders and contractors.

Thanks for the replies. I think I will try to squirt a silicon or acrylic sealant down into holes (there is another solid batten behind) and then cover with tape.

A contractor fitting battens over an airtight membrane layer has left multiple holes without screws. Presumably screws were put in then removed. These screwless holes are all over walls and ceilings. Most battens have at least one. At worst there are 5 holes for one screw. From Google and common sense I think they have compromised the airtight layer. However, the contractor, who came highly recommended, says its no problem and come the airtight test if there is a problem he will come and fix it. I do not want to wait for the airtight test. I have two questions: 1) I have a problem that needs fixing, right? 2) How can I fix this? Can I spray a product, foam or some type of glue, through the batten holes onto the membrane? I really don't want to remove the battens and tape up all the holes and then put battens back up. Any advise appreciated. Thanks.

Thanks very much Nickfromwales for the recommendation and tip.

I am considering buying a Brink Flair 225 MVHR unit. I cannot find reviews and wonder if anyone can offer any opinion on this unit or the range? Thanks

Yes this is very impressive

OK, thanks Iceverge. Has your system been running long?

Is it worth the extra money to buy semi-rigid ducting with "Anti-Microbial and Anti-Static additives"? In my case, for a 100m2 cottage with 3 people occupancy. I need to choose between the Ubbink ducting with or without: AE48C Semi-Rigid Duct Anti-Microbial & Anti-Static 50m AE48C Semi-Rigid Duct 50m Thanks, Phil

What makes a decent roof terminal for a wet and windy location? I can't find any claiming to be better in wind which surprises me. For a pitched tile roof. The terminals will be on same side, 2m apart, and no closer than 1m to edge. 150mm ducting (Aerform). Is a low profile necessarily better in wind? These are two I am considering but with little confidence in selection: Low profile Verbas Slate £74 Chimney Ubbink UB47 Insulated £116

Great info. M5 is good enough for me. Thanks John.

I am about to buy an MVHR system. Largely driven by the need for side connections, I have whittled down to two units: Name Filters Spigots Vent Axia Plus B G4 & M5 Top and/or side Airflow DV300 Entro 2*G4 & F7 Side The location is rural and pollen filtering is very important to us. I would get the Vent-Axia but it doesn't have an F7 filter. So maybe the DV300. Can you help with any of these three questions: Is there a noticeable difference between M5 and F7 filters for reducing pollen? is the DV300 any good? I haven't found any comments or reviews. Can you recommend a unit >230m3/h, side spigot connections and F7 filter? Thanks

Putting together a parts list, and I cannot find install info for these Coanda grills. How close should they be to the ceiling? Can I connect these straight to a duct (eg in my case to a AE48C Bend 90°)? I am on a steep learning curve and trying to minimise my questions here. Just tell me when you've had enough John!

John, thanks again. You've been more than generous with your time and knowledge. I am going to do it myself.

In fact there is a mezzanine above the bathroom and bedroom 2. It will be used for utility and storage (the MVHR unit for example). Not a living arera but will be regularly accessed. Is it worth moving that supply vent onto the mezzanine?

Having got a design I now think I may install it myself. Maybe you would comment on my vent positions (see attached image). These are currently more positioned for ease of install. I suspect the far end away from the vent in Bedroom 1 might be lacking flow. How do they look to you?