deuce22

So would a heavier insulation, whether it was marketed for thermal or accoustic, have better sound proofing properties? The plasterer has just told me that he uses standard boards, but doubles them up, rather than using accoustic boards. The double standard board gives better density and is also cheaper. I just want to understand if density is the main requirment for sound proofing. Thanks.

Hi. I am looking for some clarification. Does acoustic insulation have different properties over thermal insulation. I’ve been told, that for soundproofing, it is all about density. If an insulation that is marketed as accoustic, weighs 10kg m3 and an insulation that is marketed as thermal, weighs 15kg m3, will the thermal insulation provide better soundproofing? Thanks.

No, those boards are not there. They've used 200mm+ screws and fixed vertical battens, through the PIR and into the rafter.

No. Im not a roofer, but have an idea of how it all works. I'm now realising that the OSB should have been laid on top of the rafters, with the VCL fitted to this.

roof tile counter batten with breather membrane between 150mm PIR insulation 8x2 rafter with mineral wool between

The ceiling is not up yet. I've spoken with a company that has advised to do the following. Fit a VCL to the underside of the rafters, board and skim, use sealed downlights and seal them to the ceiling with silicone, then use a paint on VCL to the whole ceiling before emulsion. I like the idea of the spotlight shrouds, where do you get these from? Starting to get fed up with tradesmen, just had to go around re-fiting all the door straps into the concrete infill (ICF construction), the fitter used wood screws into the foam only, an almost 1/2 tonned bifold, being held in place by bits of spray foam. Thanks for the help.

Hi. I am looking for some advice on an issue I have with my roof. The roofers have fitted a warm pitched roof and told me that the vapour barrier gets fitted on the underside of the rafters. I have vaulted ceilings on the top floor and a lot of spots and sprinkler heads. I’m now finding out that the vapour barrier should have been fitted to the boards above the rafters. Is there a way for me to fit the vapour barrier underneath, without having a lot of areas where condensation can pass through? Thanks.

Thanks for all your help. I've thought against doing all the door openings like this now. I'll just do the 2 that are needed and the rest will be standard doors. Thanks.

Thanks Mike. I didn't think about cleaning or maintanance. Maybe I will regret putiing them in.

Thanks Thorfun for the advice. I've just spoken with the chippie again and he has given me a bit more info. He said that the kits vary in thickness, but as he doesnt use the steel wrapped timber studs, he works with a 120mm thick stud wall. He rips down all the timber to 35mm on the table saw, fixes these top and bottom, which gives a 50mm void for the door. He believes that doing it this way gives a sturdier wall, compared to the kits and costs a fraction of the costs. This seems pretty straight forward for me, but I'm wondering if this wall will be sturdy enough. I may just try 1 and see, unless somebody can confirm it on here. I'm wondering why pipes, cables and sockets/switches/back boxes can't be used between the 35mm stud or is it that your kits use much thinner steel wrapped studs.

Hi. I am looking for some advice on pocket sliding doors. I am in the process of putting all the stud walls up in a new build and trying to decide on whether to use standard or sliding doors. I have 15 doors in total and the kits I’ve looked at are around £200. I don’t really won’t to pay 3k for the kits, so if this is the only option, I’ll go down the standard door route. I had a quick chat with a carpenter and he said you don’t need the kits, just good quality parts/fixings. I just want to know if these can be framed without the kit and if so, are they still quality, or is it just a bodge job. Thanks.

Ok, so there's no comparison really. Why would the SAP company need to know, that I'm using MVHR over intermitent fans?

Thanks both for the explanation. I have not had a blower test done, just sent drawings to the company and they've sent back a spec for it. So it's not just as simple as doubling your 160m2 house and that would almost be sufficient for my 345m2 house? How does a MVHR differ from the intermitent fans I've been told to install?

Hi. I've been given my SAP calculations and it states that I should be using intermitent extract fans in the kitchen and bathrooms. I'll be starting on first fix shortly and so I'm going through things now. I've been told that the fans wont work properly as I dont have trickle vent in the windows, is this correct? If that is the case, the next option is MVHR. Somebody I know have just installed this in a 200m2 property and it has cost him approx £1500. My house is around 115m2 per floor over 3 floors (345m2), so I assumed it would cost me double (around 3k). I've just had a spec from bpc ventilation and the cost for the two options is between 5-5.5k. I've been told by somebody to have 1 unit for each floor as this will be more cost effective and if one fails it doesn't shut it down for the whole house. I'm looking for advice on what is the best option and what it should roughly cost per m2. Thanks.

andyscotland I'll give Celotex a call and see what they say. I've spoken with Kingspan and they said that there was no need to vent the roof with the current spec. Thanks.