Richini

Thanks for the comments. I liked the idea of the insulated metal cladding just struggled to find any local installers of it.

Thanks for the information. This wasn't a particularly cheap mistake to make, so pretty disappointing the corrective work is so drastic.

I've gone back through our paperwork. His initial quote was for grey trims turned down into existing gutter. His opinion is it wasn't part of his job and isn't interested in coming back. Admittedly a mistake on my side and didn't really consider the consequences at the time. I'm already struggling getting a roofer to come take a look at the guttering to sort out, but what's the main points they need to address?

thanks for all the comments. A couple pictures attached. This is just a utility area. The main area was insulated with recticel, with the insulation roof lagging just used at the ends for some reason. The original glass roof was removed, but the original conservatory style gutter which connects to an alloy beam (synseal eaves gutter) was left in place. Unfortunately water is getting in behind the gutter and making its way down the inside of the patio door. First pictures shown above show the gutter removed. The alloy beam sits about 100mm back from the roof lip. I'm struggling to figure out how I can replace the guttering and make it watertight above the patio door. Thanks.

Thanks for the reply. Would it be acceptable to deepen the timber fascia by adding another piece of timber below the existing? Theres probably 5mm between the plastic fascia and the roof lip is this enough to get a gutter and clip in to?

Good afternoon. Looking for some guidance on what to do with our flat roof gutter. The roof was recently changed to a flat roof, previously being a glazed roof. The current guttering is based around the previous conservatory guttering system, but having pulled the gutter off I can see the roof insulation is coming through and water is collecting in the channel behind the gutter. I'm looking for ideas on how this should be sealed and finished properly please.

ProDave, no issues with a wet room, infact I really like how you've done your bathroom. The rest of my household is unfortunately pretty care free when it comes to splashing water everywhere and can just see a wetroom leading to water making its way out the bathroom and into the adjoining hallway.

RichardL, thanks for your comment. I guess my main concern with the over bath shower is water getting absolutely everywhere. My experience of over bath showers is typically that that water has one way or another ended up all over the bathroom floor. For my sanity I'd just rather know leak damage was being minimised as far as possible.

Mr Punter, point taken thanks. Pictures now to same orientation hopefully. - While I have seen a few good over bath options, I've never seen an over bath option that properly contains the water when having a shower. So my preference is to eek out room for a dedicated shower if possible. - We do have a separate WC elsewhere to hopefully help alleviate the morning rush.

Omnibuswoman. Thanks for your reply. Have you spec'd the overflow filler tap yet? Was keen on the grohe talentofill, but then noticed it has to run through a separate shower diverter, which doesn't really fit with what we're trying to achieve.

Good morning, I'm really looking for comments or suggestions for our bathroom renovation. The plan as it currently sits, is to take a wall down a move the door to create a larger space. Our requirements are to have a separate shower & bath. Young children so wet room isn't really practical, and to have everything as accessible for repairs / maintenance as possible. Can anyone suggest any layout alternatives please? Should the door open against the toilet or shower? Taken note of the Mcalpine traps for the shower and bath, are there any other top suggestions for things to incorporate into a new bathroom? Thanks.

Markc, thanks for the comment. This would make a nice clean aesthetic, how can it be wall mounted whilst also making the tap mixer accessible when things start go wrong to replace etc? We currently have a bath tap that's so boxed in we have to dismantle the whole bathroom to be able to access for a replacement and really hoping to avoid this scenario going forward. Thanks

Good evening, Planning our bathroom refit and would appreciate any advice people may have for accessible plumbing options with a double ended bath. Bath will be against a wall on 2 sides, with bath panels on 2 other sides. Initial thoughts are to have the bath overflow facing the wall and fitting a grohe talentofill overflow, waste filler tap so we could pull the bath panel off and have access to the tap easily. Ideally I would like to add a shower head and thermostatic mixer to this setup and looking for any advice on how this can be achieved / mounted whilst still making everything easily accessible when things start going wrong. Thanks.

Thanks for your reply. The DPC has been put in between house brickwork and concrete slab pathway.

Thanks. Not quite sure what it's trying to achieve

Mid way through patio refurbishment. Previous concrete slab and channel drainage was framed in parts with 100mm DPC roll. Some sort of half hearted approach at something. Is this really necessary? Well below the houses DPC course.

Finally got going on our patio renovation today. Seem to have uncovered a plethora of drains, and could with some suggestions on how to proceed please. We've uncovered a double drainage gulley as shown. The gulley is cracked and unusable, so looking for a suitable replacement. We only really need the part for the downpipe to go into, not both parts. What are my options?

Good evening, Started installing new doors today with XL joinery handle packs. The pack contains handles, tubular latch and handles. Can't find any fitting instructions unfortunately, but the handles don't return to horizontal, but droop at about 45 degrees. Will chase up with XL joinery tomorrow, but just hoping someone here may have some wisdom to share? I've tried several of the packs, and none of the latches seem to hold the handles in horizontal position. Has my chippie and me missed something obvious? Thanks.

Tony T do you have to run an additional thermostat for the hot water system also?

Thanks for the reply. Interesting that you've had a good experience with the bwt combicare, I had read they tend to get blocked up with limescale. We'll be getting a Bosch greenstar 8000, if there's any recommendations for this setup that would be great. Local weather compensation would be great, as would a thermostat that is quite robust if the internet goes down.

Good evening, We're about to replace our 26 year old combi boiler and would really appreciate recommendations on the accessories which should be fitted with it. As well as a magnaclean, our plumber has recommended we should be looking to fit a limescale inhibitor and an arrestor to prevent any pressure spikes damaging the combi manifold. Having read a few posts I'm tempted by the cistermiser combinate to act as the limescale inhibitor. Can anyone approve or disapprove of this choice? For the arrestor I'm not quite sure if a prv is sufficient or is a 4 litre expansion vessel the best idea, or both? We do have water hammer currently. Third question is regarding which thermostat. Was previously drawn to the tado but now not sure. Anyone have any wise suggestions here? Thanks.

Brilliant thanks, great information. Spend a lot of time reading through the paving expert site, thanks.

Thanks for your reply. It's a bit of an odd design, but the single skin building does step down from the main house by 100mm. Should I be looking to get an internal second skin laid followed by a new floor? Not certain, but would think the internal dividing wall of the outbuilding can probably come down without disturbing the outside shell.

Ok thanks. Is it 75mm below the air brick we should aim for? Can't actually see the damp proof course, but assume there will be one? House is from 1968.

I'm starting to suspect the concrete slab is too high against the brickwork? see picture showing it just below the air brick