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AdTee

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Everything posted by AdTee

  1. Ah that's great, thank you.
  2. Hi folks, Desperately seeking a solution here! I'm about to embark on a DIY stick-build timber frame 'wraparound' 2 storey extension on a Victorian end terrace cottage. The wraparound part of the extension adds a new front entrance and hallway along the side of the house where ground level slopes from front to rear. On the drawings, DPC is the standard 150mm above ground, but at the front of the house ground level is pretty much at where the DPC will be. I can't excavate outwards as the build is right against the boundary. As it is, the low cottage ceilings and my increased depth of ceiling joists over the originals, mean I'll have a less than ideal amount of headroom in the hallway. I'd love to be able to drop the floor level further but the high ground level at the front prevents me doing this without going down the tanking route (which I'd rather not). Is there anything I can do here? Aco and some kind of reinforcement/retainer to the boundary? The orange highlight is closer to where I think the cladding is more likely to come out to after cross battening etc (maybe just a few mm overdrawn by me!). Thanks in advance.
  3. I'm about to stick build our 2 storey wrap-around extension and we're building bang up to the boundary on both sides. We're the end terrace of a small row of victorian cottages, so one side we're around 30cm from a conservatory, and the other side we're around 3m from the flank wall of the next house. We're tight on room, so the wall make-up as per plans (I may change the insulation if I can get better acoustic properties within a similar depth and still meet the required U value) is: skim 37.5mm insulated pb with taped joints 120mm Kingspan K112 between studs 140x38 studs (can't remember if spec'd as C16 or C24, but will use C24 as that's what my local sawmill carries) Non-combustible sheathing (just about to start looking into options for this) Breathable membrane Cross battened Standing seam steel We'll have normal (unprotected, not fire spec) alu non-opening high-level windows on one flank of the ground floor only. There's a max area that you can have for unprotected openings, so I'll put in a fire door to compartmentalise the the ground floor (where new rear kitchen meets new side hallway) as fire resistant windows are sooo much more expensive.
  4. Hi Canski, just to let you know I've sent you a PM. Cheers.
  5. Ah great, thanks for coming back to me and apologies for the delay in picking up your reply. I'm looking for around 10 (needed in 3-4 weeks time), but I think I'd need to hire a Luton to come and collect them as they won't fit in my van. I took some quotes from Anyvan but they weren't cost effective. Will look into local hire costs tomorrow and come back to you.
  6. Hi Canski, I'm just gearing up for the first part of my DIY 2 storey extension and have realised I'm in need of site fencing! Did you find a taker for your panels in the end or would you still happen to have them? Many thanks
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