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fletcher5555

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  1. Evening All I am researching external wall insulation and have learned so much from the posts so thank you to all who have contributed. I have an 1800 cottage which has been extended in the 1980's. Externally the cottage is painted white directly onto brick (no render) which is flaking off in some places but looks pretty good in others. It looks like this paint is non-porous but there isn't any damp in the walls, only a little bit from the floors of the older parts of the cottage. My question is should this paint be stripped before the EWI insulation is fitted? If it's not removed would this not increase the likelihood of damp given that moisture won't be able to flow out from the house? Lastly, if I do need to remove the paint can you provide any advice how I can do this as I doubt a wire brush or paint stripper would work? Thank you all for your help.
  2. Cheers @elite, think we will need to do something similar but please keep us updated as this thread is mega useful
  3. @elite are you able to provide an update on this thread? What did you decide to do in the end?
  4. I just wanted to thank everybody who contributed to this incredibly useful thread. This is what community is all about and it informs new projects significantly. Thank you
  5. Good Morning All This is my first post seeking a bit of advice if possible. We have a detached house originally built in the 1800's and extended in the 1980's. We had a survey completed when we bought the house which indicated the following... We are planning to insulate the loft area (Currently 🥶) and started to inspect the area closely. Our findings are included in the following videos. Videos It seems like the bitumen felt has came away and the tiles no longer lap (due to weather?) and therefore require repair. We also have rotten fascia boards and soffits creating a lovely opportunity for insects to get in (3 huge old dormant wasp nests 1 of which was treated last year). My main question is: Can the holes be repaired from inside the loft space by shuffling the tiles over, and putting the bitumen sheet back into place with an adhesive flashing tape type of product or would the tiles need to come off the house from the outside to fully inspect and replace the bitumen sheet if needed? Any advice much appreciated, cheers all.
  6. Hi @Brad Evans we have a similar issue and wondered how you resolved? Did it require a roofer?
  7. Hi All My wife and I bought a cottage just over a year ago in our dream plot. The property is a two-storey detached cottage originally built in 1880 with an extension provided to one side in 1981. The house is pretty dated with non-structural cracks present in pretty much every room. Nonetheless the rooms are pretty big for a house of this age which also has oil fuelled central heating. The plan is to renovate to make best use of the space and make the house more energy efficient and cosy. However, there are a few problems which need to be resolved on our renovation journey which include: • Replacement of some roofing timbers, repair of others • Damp proofing • Replacing rotted windows • Structural repair of damaged walls • Replacement of ground floor due to damp • Installation of water treatment plant • Repair of ceilings in the upstairs bedrooms • Rainwater goods • Replastering • Heating • Ridge tiling • Repointing • Reflashing of chimney • Elements of roof (Flat areas) • Canopy We are pretty good at DIY however novice house renovators and have already found this forum so useful so thank you to you all. We aim to keep you all unto date with our progress and also pass our learning onto others. Cheers Dave
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