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Lesley72

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  1. Lesley72
    Well we ended up leaving the crackmat down and we got some fibre reinforcement screed over the top and then some glue down karndean to finish. Obviously looks no where as nice as the huge porcelain white gloss tiles but at least it’s not cracking now and is safe to walk on and is functional. I think when we charge the kitchen we might pull everything up and go back to the joists and replace the floor then. Huge thanks to everyone who took the time to reply it’s really appreciated ..
  2. Lesley72
    @Dave Jones the 22mm board is routed to fit the ufh heating in and so are the 6mm ply that went ontop. We had the option to put 12mm ply but the tiler says it would be fine with 6mm and the crackmat.. wish we’d gone with the 12mm ply. 🤬🤬🤬
  3. Lesley72
    Thanks for everyone.. I think we’ll get the tiles up and see if we can get the crack mat up and take it from there.
  4. Lesley72
    @nod thank you. If we can get the crack mat up and see where is safe to screw another 6mm ply will that fix it? or does it mean we can’t have any size tiles now? Will all other flooring be ok?
  5. Lesley72
    @TonyT no we can’t get access underneath now the UFH is down. ☹️
  6. Lesley72
    @bassanclan no idea about hangers.,but there is plenty of insulation I hope ripping the tiles up isn’t going to damage the sub floor as the underfloor heating is in it. There is a crackmat down so not sure if that needs to come up. Or if self leveller will be able to go down on top of it? I don’t think the builder will be back as we paid him his final payment last year and have been working with the tilers to try to get the cracked tiles sorted. When I asked the builder about the joist and floor he just said it was built to the architects spec 🤷🏻‍♀️ I would love to rip it all up and start again but with the new kitchen in and underfloor heating in, we can’t take everything up so are going to have to do the best fix possible. Whatever that is and try and get some flooring down that isn’t going to crack
  7. Lesley72
    @Adsibob thank you. Can you recommend any companies I could approach for a quote? I live in the north east. South Shields
  8. Lesley72
    Thanks will have a look.
  9. Lesley72
    Really sorry I don’t know the answer to the questions. When I asked my builder he said he built the joists as per the architect spec 🤷🏻‍♀️ Am I right in assuming lvt would also crack and resin flooring would crack with the deflection? so that leaves me with carpet or lino? neither I would want in my very expensive extension /kitchen diner 😭 can anyone advise on the best flooring option is we can’t now have tiles?
  10. Lesley72
    @Dave Jones I’ve found this photo.. not sure what use it will be
  11. Lesley72
    @Dave Jones thank you so much. What can we do to fix it? Can we just now not have tiles due to deflection? If not what type of flooring can we use that won’t crack?
  12. Lesley72
    @joe90 The TorFloor 2 Standard system comprises of a 22mm chipboard deck panel with a 6mm woodfibre cover panel with bonded layer of AL HEX aluminium diffuser foil.
  13. Lesley72
    @Dave Jones apologies there was routed chipboard system we bought from Omnie which then had their 6mm ply put ontop.
  14. Lesley72
    @Dave Jones 6mm ply Omnie board, then the tilers crack mat Span is 3200mm new extension which joined onto an existing kitchen suspended floor which spans 2300mm 😬
  15. Lesley72
    @Dave JonesOur builder said he built as per our architect spec which was “Structural floor to be in timber floor joisting. Install 200 x 50mm C16 floor joists at 400mm centres. Joists are not to be built into walling but are to be supported on restraint type joist hangers. Joists to have one row of herringbone or diagonal strutting - Herringbone strutting to be at least 38mm x 38mm; solid strutting to be at least 38mm thick and at least three quarters of the joist depth. Notches in joists to be no deeper than 0.125 times the depth of the joist and should not be cut closer to the support than 0.07of the span, nor further away than 0.25 times the span. Holes should be no greater than 0.25 times the depth of the joist; should be drilled at the neutral axis; and should be not less than 3 diameters (centre to centre) apart; and should be located between 0.25 and 0.4 times the span from the support” ??
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