carou

sorry for the delay in responding to you: the type of heat pump is Samsung HTQ 8kw air source heat pump 300 litre unvented cylinder, 50 litre buffer cylinder, 18 litre central heating expansion vessel, Samsung EHS LNHT 8Kw flow temp 35 scop 4.46 with UFH nd 5 rads 3 towel rads 2 of which are dual fuel schematics to follow (he can't find them as on an old server) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FcXAtVjdRE8 it doesn't have it's own stat built in. In asking him why he designed this one he cannot answer only to blame me for saying the architect spec'd instant heat, then sent me an email saying I 'said' that that was what the architect wanted. having now looked back on emails the architect said instant heat in the form of rads as he didn't want/think it was a good idea in a PH to have UFH but he came back with 'no UFH is the best way to heat my home' knowing the UFH would be in the slab. so me and architect were led by his recommendations to have ufh (installed by MBC the timber Frame company). He designed the High heat ASHP, not the architect or me. He can't answer why did he put one in that's not got its own built in stat. So I'm stuck with Honeywell clicking on off. he's limited to a certain amount of on/offs per day but again won't say what he's done. mcs say if I want to complain to them they'll deal with it and liaise with ncis and if they don't resolve then they can pursue a higher level complaint. unsure of what to do. he said the Honeywell is acting just as a temp limiter and on/off it's not controlling the temp so I'm confused.com. the PH certifier need them to provide schematics etc but it's like asking for blood. it's all on an old server apparently?!

thank you so much. He's been back again and he is indeed a heat geek and on their register. it basically boils down the the ashp model is a high temp one because my architect told them he wanted short sharp burst of heat as my only heating is UFH downstairs (set into the concrete slab) and 3 x towel rads and 2 x bedroom rad on the FF. these ashp do not have their own thermostat so they had to use Honeywell stand alone but he says it working purely as on/off. He said that he'd set it to low temp mode so it's operating as a low temp ashp pump because ..... !!! in order to get heat on in the GF shower room I have to wack the heat up manually and then do a waiting game for it to get hot and it also won't get hot anyways due to weather compensation (it's hot outside) only warm. He's been back to change over a wire that samsung told him to do to stop the E912 error, done various thing to the Honeywell stat to stop it clicking on/off so much. He said I should just set it to 21 and leave it alone or just switch it off in the summer. I can't cope with all the phaf tbh so I'll just fingers crossed and hope from now on and keep monitoring it.

Yes it’s a smart stat.

They’re quite a common room stat. I’ve got x 2 Honeywell one up and one down.

I’m in Sussex. Yr replies really helpful. MCs line of enquiry said get them back and make sure they get on the ringer to Samsung. The A and PM have said get them back. Got them back and they said Samsung don’t have their own technical the sub out to the likes of whoever they employ and plumber said he’d often get calls from them as he’s done their course. Basically he’s said the constant clicking on off and completely drawing my solar to zero (does it when on Program to keep it at 21) The thing kicks in ‘when’ it’s already 21! It’s bonkers. Plumber said just turn it off in summer as I don’t need it. BUT come winter I’ll need it so want iron out issue now and before I pay final bill. He said the zone of difference on the honeywell is one degree half up and half down so it shouldnt be calling for heat BUT (and here I need a leap of faith) he said honeywells got a built in intelligence and will stop doing it once it realises or works it out!! The other issue is I’d like a WiFi connector to it so Samsung can monitor how it’s working but am told I can’t have it. Samsung EHS R32 Monobloc Heat Pump 8 KW AE080RXYDEG/EU Plus when it’s running it can go a bit whirring and it gets a bit louder than normal.

after a company's fitted it and I can't get faults sorted is there anyone who can take on the complaint for me and sort it out please. I'm a self builder with no energy etc to sort it out with recc.org.uk their governing body https://www.recc.org.uk/scheme/consumer-code#tag7.3. it says I can use a friend or relative to help me but I'm just happy to pay an expert to do it for me. Im a complete beginner and have somehow managed to build a soon to be certified passive house. my architect's brilliant but it's not his bag, my PM is also not keen to take it on as I've completely run out of cash and he's so busy doing other projects now.

good idea

that's exactly what would happen with me, it would remain full til it overflowed into the surrounding field until the ditch subsides and the water can run off down the ditch

nice but the brook would fill this up as opposed to the house if the brook breaks it's banks.

Nice but the water off the house would drain into the ditch ok and not cause a problems so I don't believe it needs slowing down. it's only when the ditch overflows it's got no where to go and if I made a a water holding facility it would fill up as quick as lightening by the brook not the house unfortunately so I don't really see the point in having to create one.

A new build I'm doing on my land in the countryside, I'm hoping to run surface water into my own brook as it's about 15 meters from the edge of the property and the soil is heavy clay. It's seems the most logical answer rather than an attenuation tank because when the rain pours down, in the wettest times of the year, the soil not being free draining and the amount of water coming down the brook (it's taking road run off) it can on the very odd occasion burst it bank and overflow into the field (hence why I'm raising up my new build) and usually takes a good 1/2 day to begin to drain away and to stop my field looking like a lake. An attenuation tank would just fill up from the brook overflowing. Unfortunately the architect has popped in an attenuation tank into the drawings which unfortunately I asked them to remove because of what happens but they didn't so Building Regs now have this tank in their drawings and I'm hoping they will see that it's not necessary. Any experiences/thoughts on this please?

Really appreciate your help thank you. I’ll message you my contact.

I obviously need to have another talk with him with this information. Can anyone update the phpp to take into account changing to UFH or making a window that’s subject to OH smaller? My PHC said it’s a lot of work £+++. How can I tweak it or can’t I?

The PHC architect said it was to take into account how the weather can drop off dramatically from day to night in winter in this country. If I ask him to give me the phpp can anyone with the software update it to change it to UFH or make a west facing dorma window smaller?

can I update my architect PHPP easily or do I need my accredited PH consultant to do it? I need to reduce the size of 2 x dormas on the first floor on the west elevation? How would I go about it with regards buying the software/getting it approved by the certifier, getting the architect to give me my PHPP? It's looking like a pass ATM.