JohnBishop

Thanks for the link. The empty tank is on top of the full one.

Hi, Please can you advise on a water pump to pump rainwater from one IBC tank to the other. I have filled up one and now want to transfer water from the bottom tank to the top tank. I know there are these immersion pumps like this one https://www.kaercher.com/uk/home-garden/drainage-pumps/sp-16-000-dual-16458330.html?utm_source=google-feed&utm_medium=cpc&utm_content=16458330&utm_name=SP 16.000 Dual&cid=ps_ggl_pmax_categ&gad_source=5&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI8ome3qHwigMVFZiDBx1iQxRrEAQYAyABEgIHIPD_BwE but I won't be able to insert one from the top so it must be some inline water pump. I have looked up and found this one https://www.amazon.com/Seaflo-12v-Water-Pressure-Pump/dp/B01CPIHFSY What do you think? Thanks

How long screws should I use to attach the rafters? The rafter (birds mouth bit) is about 8.5cm thick. The timber is about 4.7cm wide. Should I use 18cm long screws that are 6mm of diameter? What drill size should I use for pre-drilling 5mm?

what screws do you think I should use to attach these plastic flashings to the insulated wall? https://www.plasticbuildingsupplies.com/polycarbonate-roofing-sheet/ez-glaze-accessories-ez-glaze-wall-connector-2m-ezglazew-conn2m

I have cut the timber and I am in the process of staining it but it takes awful amount of time to dry. Do you think I should leave a gap between the insulated wall I mean that brittle plaster and the timber? The structure is pretty strong but I wonder in strong winds is it going to start slamming the wall. On top of that do you know if I can get something like this corrugation support these guys in Arizona talk about? I think in UK this is called eaves filler made of foam? I found some at Onduline website https://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Eaves-Fillers-for-Corrugated-Sheets-Pack-6/p/240165 I don't think this makes sense in my case because I attach it to rafters that go parallel with the sheets but it would be good to support it on something in place where I screw it in.

I wanted the timber to rest on the 2nd one but it looks like the cut is going to be too deep, isn't it? What would you recommend doing? Should I introduce a wedge to bridge the gap?

I think the spacing between rafters will be 60cm. This EZ Glaze looks cool but it's quite expensive unless I can find something similar but cheaper. How far should the overhang reach do you think? Half-way? Of course on the right side I want to cut it parallel to the wall. Do you think on the left side should I cut it square? I think on both ends I should incise these weeping groves right so the timer lasts longer, no?

from the description these are 3mm thick comparing to corrugated that is 1-1.3mm of thickness

what do you think about stuff like EZ Glaze? https://corrugatedplasticroofing.co.uk/collections/ez-glaze-glass-like-polycarbonate-roof-panels

I have heard about that. What else transparent would you recommend then?

I think the only problem I can see so far is those wires going exactly where the rafters will end. I think I have to move them or something or carve out the wood.

Please have a look. This is what I built so far. This is very strong. I mean I could put up a roof and then think about bracing as this is quite strong. I don't put tiles but polycarbonate sheets.

I already screwed everything together. I could not wait before the beautiful weather today I send some pictures later today. On the bases I used M10 everywhere else M12

how is this bracing achieved in such circumstances? I reckon I need an anchor of some sort.

I am putting up my patio and I found two of the 6x6 posts not entirely level when I check with my 1m long level. The reason I am asking is because I am about to connect these posts with the other side to make it a solid square. At the moment it can sway side to side. My question is: should I pull the post in the desired direction to level it then clamp it before drilling holes or just leave it as is without causing the tension? I mean the wood is not 100% straight.