benben5555

I've had a quote from Octopus for 16 panels (7.04kw) on a SW facing roof (50 degree pitch). The quote appears good value at £7,300 with a GivEnergy 5.2kWh battery. They have given the option to have a Enphase IQ Battery 5kw battery, but the price goes up to £10,089. I have no knowledge of either of these brands and the price difference suggests that the cheaper one is a bit of a no brainer (comes with 12 year guarantee). Any thoughts on this in terms of price and battery brand. There is also an option for a 10kw battery, but again the price goes up to £8,740 & £11,290 for the different brands. We have / will have a 7kw ASHP. I'm also getting a quote from Wickes and may try a couple of local providers, but instinct tells me no one will beat the Octopus price.

How have you found it? I've gone full circle and come back to thinking that the Blauberg is the best solution. Did you notice any extra noise due to the increased resistance from the filter?

Thank you! This I think is what I've been searching for! Which size did you use and where is it mounted? Between intake and MVHR unit? Or before the manifold?

I did see that one on AliExpress, but initially wrote it off thinking it may be suspect quality. It lists the pressure drops and airflow, but I don't understand if these would be an issue

I did look around for that but couldn't find it anywhere

Hi Chaps, I've been installing my Vent Axia MVHR system the last few days (designed by BPC), its got the basic filter installed which I'm planning on changing to a F7 type. I'd like to add a pre-filter and a carbon filter. I've not got the time to make my own so would really like an off the shelf product. I saw the Blauberg Clean Box which has a set of 3 filters, but is expensive and the filters are extortionate. I'm also not sure about the added air resistance. Any ideas on a simple solution? I don't mind spending a few quid as long as I can get the filters subsequently for a reasonable price. Thanks

Hi, We've got a timber frame house under construction. The garage is attached to the house but has a bedroom above. I'm going to insulate the garage walls to keep it slightly warmer in there, there will be no heating, but our water cylinder will be in there. There will be insulation in the garage ceiling to insulate the floor of the room above. I'm planning on using an airtight paint on the floor of the room above. Do I also need to put an air membrane on the inside of the garage? I was planning on doing this, but now I'm not sure if it is necessary. Thanks

Hi, Not sure if this exists but I'm looking for an air tight wall vent for our planned log burner. I'd like to have something that I can open when the stove is in use and then close off to an air tight standard when its not in use. The stove will have direct ventilation but I understand that when you open the door smoke can spill out if you don't have enough air supply in the room (house is airtight with MVHR). Thanks

Sorry yes, I meant service void

Hi, what timber have people used for their cavity battens. Roof battens (25x50) would seem to do the job, but I don't know if a untreated timber would be better. I can't seem to find much untreated wood of a suitable size. Thanks

Hi Guys, Any tips for which is best to install first? I feel that it would make sense to fit the terminals first and then cut the membrane around and push up over. What is the best way to seal the membrane after? Grommets?

Lots of insulation, very airtight! That's the plan anyway. I feel on top of that part, just didn't really consider the plasterboard fixings. I've been in the loft of loads of big estate new builds for my job and never seen a noggin. Pretty sure they just fix everything at 600mm centers

Looks like the easiest option might be to fit a 25x50mm counter batten at 400mm centers then. Would save cutting a huge amount of individual noggins. Plus I've already bought 12.5mm boards so can't really change to 15mm now.

Hi, We are moving on to plasterboarding with our build. The timberframers built everything at 600mm centers with no noggins. What have people done in terms of their plasterboard fixing centers? Take the ceilings as an example, one board would touch 3 joists. I could then fix every 300mm down each joist (longways) but there would still be 600mm gaps widthways. Do you noggin across the ends of each board and put another fixing in between each joist making the widthways fixings 300mm centers (at the ends anyway)? Any maybe one noggin in the middle? Just for our first floor this would be 350 noggins!

I found this conversion table on an Australian website. If the heat loss calc is using natural ventilation rates, 0.5 is the equivalent of 10ACH which is crazy and must be really affecting the calculations. The bathrooms at utility were calculated at 1.5 which would be the equivalent of 30ACH!