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Found 2 results

  1. Hi all, Im looking at a property (end terraced) going to auction thats being sold with dry rot, and a floor collapse clearly evident in one of the photos. I have been to the property to do an external viewing, internal viewings are not allow due to the structural condition, but from the outside I can see the corner of the building where the collapsed floor is there is a rain water pipe flowing on to the floor where the external brick meets the concrete floor of the front yard. The brick work of this corner, no more than 10 courses high, 5 or 6 bricks wide, looks to be either sinking slightly or the motar is just cracked/crumbled away, in a pyramid pattern, from wide at the bottom to single brick at the top. I am concerned about the likely hood of needing to under pin. Looking at the gable end of the property I dont see any major cracks, and any that are visible look hairline, some cracked motar in the usual step like fashion, with only 2 bricks that I can see with cracks through the middle. There are other small cracks around the property but I put this down to possible vibrations of passing trains, as the railway line is only approx 5 meters from the end of the rear yard. If I got the property my first course of action would be to remove all timbers from the room, hopefully adjacent rooms wouldn't be necessary. Redirect the rain water goods until a permanent solution could be done, perhaps connect to the 4" waste stack, as there doesnt seem to be any drians. Either clear and/or add additional air bricks for better air flow. Then get some specialists in to damp proof, before replacing the timber floor and treating, or treading and replacing, whichever way round. My question is; is dry rot capable of destroying brickwork, or is it just the motar? I can redo the motar and replace a few bricks. My concern is that the bricks might be affected which I'm guessing would mean rebuilding that bottom corner, which I am also assuming would need some temporary support from somekind of jack, like they use when underpinning. I know when putting a lintel in a non load bearing wall, in theory only a 60° or 90° triangle above should be able to drop out if you wernt to use acro props, because the rest of the brickwork should lean against itself supporting it. But even though this corner is a very small area, approx 6×10 bricks, its the bottom corner of the building with a lot sitting above it. Ive got a photo but its of the side wall, cant believe I drove all that way and didnt get a photo of the front. The drain pipe location can be seen in that corner that i think has caused the damage. There is also a noticeable crack to the rear of the property, between the downstairs and upstairs windows, seen in the attached photo. Gable end is to the right. At the time linked it to possible passing trains. Thanks
  2. Hi All, We could really do with some advice on a problem we are experiencing in our home. Wed have been doing a lot of investigation with the problem. This is following us hiring a dry rot specialist and paying him the 'going rate' in order to resolve the issues. He's been unable to do so. The 'specialist' now seems to know nothing about dry rot. We have compiled a file with photos included on the dry rot our house is currently experiencing. It is attached here as 6 Dale Road. Really hope your expertise on here can help us. Dave 6_Dale_Road.pdf
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