Lewis88

Thanks for the advice @Russell griffiths I’ve had a quote for attic trusses and they seem quite reasonable. If PIR isn’t recommended what would you say is a good option to look at? Does that mean the detail would be: Inside *wooden attic trusses with insulation between (inside) *OSB *another layer of insulation (rigid) *another layer of OSB *weatherproof membrane *battens *slates Outside

Sorry, my reference to third floor is if the ground floor is counted as floor 1. In essence it’s 2 story with a habitable attic space.

So the property will be 3 floor, the attic being the third floor which will be utilised as living space. I don’t currently have a structural designer for the roof but there are basic plans drawn out by a retired architect and outlines ‘to structural designers specification’. I was hoping that this design service would be provided when purchasing the attic trusses or SIPs roof from a supply and fit basis. That said I do have a structural engineer that designed the foundation and would no doubt assist for a fee.

Thank you all for your responses. The SIPs company have now told me that it is the span that’s the issue so it is likely that there is no way around this and it is probably better to choose standard attic trusses. @Russell griffithswhat is a cassette styled roof? Is this essentially using I-joists from a main ridge beam and covered over with OSB? Would you happen to have a detail showing this? Sorry, this is my first self build so not Ai fait with the process or terminology.

I am considering a SIPs roof on my masonry/cavity build however most local SIPs manufacturers are indicating that my project isn’t suitable for SIPs - having said that I haven’t found one that has fitted a SIPs roof to a masonry build before. Please can any shed any light as to what the issue is likely to be? I’m assuming that it’s a difficulty with the span as the main ridge beam would need to be 13m long. Is there anyone that has a masonry build with a SIPs roof, and would the span be an issue?

Yes it does, I was told by the planning officer that the land is deemed to be brownfield.

Hi everyone, sorry forgot to keep this updated. I’ve no idea why the council classed my plot as brownfield. My plot is a segment of 3 acres of very hilly land. We used to keep horses on it but that was about 20+ years ago. As kandmitchell has stated I’m worried that by applying for a CPH licence it would automatically change the class of land to greenfield. Would a plot classed as greenfield be any more problematic to obtain planning permission?

Thanks farmerN, I’ve looked everywhere and I can’t find the answer to it either.

Hi, I have secured planning permission for my own self build, the land has been split into separate boundaries however the land is in my family’s ownership. The land that I have secured planning permission on is deemed to be brownfield by the local authority. The land surrounding my plot is riddled with brambles, in an effort to control the brambles I am looking at potentially applying for a CPH to keep a small herd of goats or pigs. Can anyone advise if this could negatively affect my chances of obtaining planning on said land in the future. Would applying for a CPH and keeping pigs/goats on the land immediately change the use to agricultural or greenfield?

I think that I will just be better off keeping the garage outside of the thermal envelope, leaving out the insulation in the floor and screed layer. That way i could always add it in and put UFH coils in the screed at a later date. On a plus side, I also get a bit more head space in the garage from the insulation and screed that was planned for the floor. I’ll still be insulating all of the walls and ceiling though

I will also be having a log burner at the other end of the house so I was contemplating whether or not the UFH for just the garage could be connected to this but I don’t think it could due to its distance from the garage (13m). if I could this would be perfect as I’d only want the garage heated in winter when the log burner is lit. However I really can’t see any feasibility in getting this to work due to the above.

@JohnMo and @Conor the floor will have 200mm of insulation on top of a raft foundation with UFH in 50-70mm of screed. The walls will likely be 200mm full fill mineral wool batts. I agree that it’s going to cost a lot to heat but I don’t want to regret not doing it especially as I may find an alternative way to heat it (if funds allow, such as solar thermal). Like Conor said, it could potentially be converted at a later date to habitable space so I want to make sure that I make wise decisions rather than regret in action. The ceiling of the garage will be very well insulated and plan was to keep it separate (other than the foundations). I know it will never be as warm as the rest of the house, nor does it need to be. I have at least two cars that are used daily and will likely bring a bit of heat to the garage once parked.

I have a large attached garage in my plans and I will be looking to lay my best in the new year. I have toyed with the idea of leaving it unheated however it will negatively affect the heating of the house as above the garage are two walk in wardrobes from two of the master bedrooms. I’m still trying to decide whether or not to lay under floor heating pipes in the screed to match the rest of the house. Are there any UFH manifolds that you can safely switch off a loop long term? i’m not even sure how I would feed it heat yet but I will have solar PV but I wouldn’t be adverse to fitting solar thermal later on down the line on the south facing roof of the dormer. what are peoples opinions on my options? And would you add the pipes in anyway - even with them potentially never being used? I’d guard to look back and not fitted a few hundred quid worth of pipe that could have been really useful. roof space isn’t an issue, I should have plenty even for the tallest of cars.

Thanks everyone, I’ve decided to up the insulation to 200mm, we don’t have our current house too warm (usually about 19-20c) and will have a small room sealed log burner for the coldest of days. so the OSB holds the first layer of MWB and then it’s back to business as usual for the wall ties? Did you choose to use the basalt rods or just stainless ones?

@joe90 that sounds like the way to go. as I’ve only been reading about all of this for half a tomatoe season, I didn’t even know you could have lintels that only span one skin. I’m presuming they rely on the wall ties to make sure that the walls stay plumb? Out of curiosity what did you put in the top of the window reveals to stop the insulation falling through?