ianR1

Thanks for the recommendation, I have fitted these today and am very impressed.

I shall look into them, just need to make sure they will fit on my manifold as mine are clip on and they appear to be screw on and they will be work with the honeywell evohome system

Thanks for your reply. I was running it without the actuators on and the thermostat cranked up to allow for everything to heat up equally but i'm thinking I may have to fit them now or its going to get too hot in here or would you recommend just riding it out until we hit the 50 mark and back down again ? I sourced all the kit myself and installed it and just had a plumber friend make the boiler connections so I don't have a heat loss calc, looks like something i'll have to achieve with trial, error and patience !

So finally the screed was laid and I have awaited my allotted time and have now started to introduce heat into the system. I was recommended to increase the flow temperature by 5 degrees every few days until a maximum of 55. We are now up to 35 degrees flow temperature and the house is up to 22 degrees. Is there a requirement for me to keep turning this up until I reach 55 degrees ? What normally is the ideal flow temperature and what sort of loss should I see on the return temperature ? I have roughly 450M of pipe over 5 circuits ran off a wavin manifold and a heat only boiler. Thanks in advance.

Super - Thanks for the replies Fingers crossed !

The screed is going to be done on Friday and I have the pressure test on the finally finished system planned for tonight. I understand its 5 - 6 Bar for an hour and I should be good but what pressure do you recommend leaving in the system whilst they screed ? I'm going for a sand/cement screed.

We have underfloor heating being installed so yes we will need to screed. The wife has an engineered wood floor penciled in for that room !

Hi Gus, The brick you can see in the pic sits on top of another two courses and then it steps out again another two deep and they then sit on top of a concrete footing, this is the same on the outside skin too (we have a cavity wall). We excavated the minimum we could accommodate the 100mm slab and 100mm Insulation board Being an old house (early 1900's) there are a lot of features we want to keep so raising the floor wasn't an option. The old floor was a bitumen painted concrete in which 25mm concrete was on top of the bricks and then floor boards on top of that.

Long story short, we moved into an old house and ended up have to dig up the floors due to damp issues and we are now a few weeks off having the sand and cement screed done after the UFH has gone in. Anyway we have a stepped footing in which the insulation board butts up to but this sits 20 -25mm above the insulation board and is about 3/4 of a brick wide. How would be best to prepare this for the screed, initially i was going to fix the perimeter foam around this but it will reduce the depth of screed further so we would only end up with around 25-30mm thickness. These step out bricks are only on external walls of the rooms. Another thought would be to screed up to these areas and then fill the gap with another stronger product ? Any advice on this would be gratefully received.

Would this just be pushed down to sit on top of the heating pipes or would i better to slot it to sit over them ?

Super job, thanks for the replies.

I am having my sand and cement screed done in two weeks so just now finishing off getting everything ready. I read a lot on here about fitting expansion joints in doorways but i can't seem to find the product everyone is using, could someone please point me in the right direction on what i need to buy so I can get it ticked off my list !

Hi Mark, Thanks for the reply Not below the footing, including the row you can see in the pic there is another below this and then it steps out again for another two deep and then that is on top of concrete which I can't confirm how deep it is but deeper than 6", although the house needs a lot of work where it has been neglected for so long it does seem very well built - was early 1900.

Yes it is a stepped footing. When we moved in the floors where found to be damp as it is an old house the was no membrane just concrete painted in bitumen which had broke down as the floor boards where nailed directly through it. We have dug out the floors for the floor to finish as it was originally. The new DPM that was installed when the slab went in will be covering and the perimeter foam edging (its going to be pain to do). What is a crack plane ? So would you go 100mm form the stepped brick or the actual wall - it is only like this on the external walls of the house ? Thanks for all the replies so quickly !

Hello, 1st post so please be gentle ! I have carried out searches in which almost all of my questions have been answered other than a couple. I am near enough ready to run in all of my pipe for my full downstairs UFH system and I was curious to why the pipe has to be 100mm from the wall ? The reason I am asking is that my external walls have a step out brick in which my insulation board is butted, do I measure a 100mm from that or from the wall in which the screed will go up to ? Picture attached to show what I have.