BTC Builder

Dot and dab, but I went all the way along the bottom with a full line of adhesive so nothing is getting to the skirting, same around all window reveals. most sockets too but not all because practically speaking, when you have multiple back boxes close together, the board would just snap with too much adhesive.

It was done by me with a high attention to detail. I should clarify, there's no draft whatsoever through fastened socket faces, perhaps "cold" is how I'd describe a couple that are just flapping currently

Yes, got all that. It's all hypothetical at this point, but hopefully I'll have someone who will want to come up with a solution rather than someone who wants to tell the teacher so to speak. Upgrading the extractor fans would be very difficult, impossible in most cases, as far as the bathrooms go as the ducting is now inaccessible, cables tiled in, etc They're all above the 15 litres per second stipulation but what they are in reality, I don't know.

Just to clarify, when talking about mechanical ventilation, I was referring to MVHR, that's what I don't have, no infrastructure for it, no budget for it. When I read the other day that mechanical ventilation will be required for 3 or lower, I assumed that was referring to MVHR as extractor fans are a given, surely no-one would build a house without extractor fans

Yes, extractor fans everywhere you'd except as per building regs drawing and trickle vents on every window

I'm approaching the end of my build and will be doing the air test soon. It's one of the last things to worry about so I'm naturally worried both ways, too high, too low. Too high can always be fixed with some CT1 somewhere so I'm not massively concerned with that. I didn't even know that too low was a thing, but I've read that 3 or lower will require mechanical ventilation. I don't have this, any such product could only go on an external wall now and there's no budget for it. How likely is such a score? My build is a traditional cavity wall and rendered so window frames are tight, I drylined all around the bottom of the walls, I can't feel much of a draft through sockets. My sap assessor has told me I need "around a 5" to meet regs but as this is my first experience of an air test, I don't know what to expect. I'd love to hear the experiences of others one way or the other. Thanks Side note, the property will be fully carpeted and I'd have moved in by the time we do the test due to having to wait on the kitchen, which needs to go in before air test and then skirtings up to it, creating a bit of a delay.

I started a thread over a year ago saying that CIL is a scam in terms of self build exemption because it's full of booby traps that the council will gladly let you fall in to. Since I started that thread, there have been multiple horror stories on this forum alone. It's all a con.

You can pm me if you're in lancashire and take it from there. It's a local operation. The boards are great and I have another batch coming tomorrow. I did however decide to use the savings to get sound shield boards for most studs and ceilings below rooms.

Just to clear up any confusion, the boards where made in Turkey but I had no role in their shipment. I just rang the number I saw on Facebook and now 84 boards are in my (would be) kitchen. I have been given a VAT recipt. I've checked the number and it matches the name of company and address. Providing they cut and screw like normal, and I'll test skim a room, I'll get more. It's a massive saving.

Never heard of a CE label before, but on inspection there is a ce label on every board, but a search for this label online only returns the manufacturer website

No nothing like that, just standard 2400x1200x12.5 for dry lining. Building Control won't be saying anything because they look exactly the same as British Gypsum, knauf, and Siniat. I was more wondering how they skim up and if the thistle will still adhere properly. I guess I'm of the mindset that it's too good to be true so what's wrong with them

A friend sent me a link to a Facebook post advertising plasterboards significantly cheaper than what you'd get at local merchants. We're talking £2.50 a board cheaper than the absolute best bulk price I've been offered Obviously, you know that at this price there's something a bit different at play but because I need around 400 I thought I'd give them a go and got a pallet to try them out. They're Atiskan Alci, was wondering if anyone had used them before? They look and feel exactly the same as a normal board, if they said "British Gypsum" on them I wouldn't know any different.

Thought I'd update to say that in the end, I went with a screening company arranged via my plumber at an excellent rate. Thanks to everyone who offered their advice.

From another thread, I know you're local to me. Can you recommend any suppliers of screed mix? It's a large area, 140sqm and we wouldn't want it all in a day as we wouldn't be able to level it in one go. we'd split it into two and have an expansion joint in the middle (doorway) regardless of whether we do it all ourselves or have someone else supply the mix.

I've got the man power and a large mixer so not worried in that regard, I just don't want to do the wrong mix that will crack or won't work with the underfloor heating

This is what i was wondering, I've seen it done on other jobs I've sub contracted to and would not attempt it semi dry. So wet mix is no good?

I was wondering if anyone had done their own sand and cement (75mm) floor screed and what the correct mix would be? I was thinking 3:1 with concreting sand and sbr but don't really know if this would be suitable with the underfloor heating?

150mm. I find pir as easy to use as dritherm, which is difficult and itchy to cut, but I don't like it getting wet and soaking through so prefer pir

I've got 0.17 u value, thomas armstrong 7.3n lightweight concrete blocks inner and outer skin, 100mm unilin PIR partial cavity fill. Blocks 97p each, 6.48 each for the unilin.

We're way past foundation stage. Could such a thing be left entirely external and only drill into the house if necessary above the dpc cavity tray? I've got a radon barrier so having a duct in the ground and up into the house seems at odds with that. I've also no intention of using any ducting as the cable is there in my front garden. I'll only be going down the ducting route if someone forces me to. I should add that someone else at LABC, a younger chap who is keen as mustard, has already mentioned my "lack of a connectivity plan" so it's not as if I'm opening any new doors in asking the question. I'm just wondering if my "plan" to use the existing overhead cable is viable

Why ask? Because I don't know what gigabit ready connection is. I don't know if it will or won't involve getting into the sub floor, which with underfloor heating, screed, tiles will cause massive issues, if I leave them until sign off inspection.

I know there's been a few threads on this over the past 18 months but I thought I'd see if anyone can help with my situation. I'm building a replacement house within a built up residential area. There's a telegraph pole at the end of the driveway where an overhead cable used to go into the old house and give us 100mb download speed Internet. When we demolished the old bungalow, we simply wrapped this cable up, covered it, and the intention is to simply put it back on the new house with the same Internet provider (sky). I just had a meeting with the local authority building inspector and when I asked if using the telegraph pole to provide a cable with a 100mb connection would satisfy part r and ultimately allow him to sign off the house, he wouldn't commit to anything and almost became a robot "every building regulation submission should have a part R connectivity plan". Well my plan is just to use the cable I've already got but he wouldn't tell me if he would pass it or not. He's an old bloke and probably thinks the whole thing is a load of bollocks. Would a letter from sky showing the speed available be good enough?

So would the summary be, avoid and stick to polythene trays above the radon tray? I noticed NHBC are now saying polythene trays should be avoided which probably contributed to the architect specifying zedex.

I'm already doing that with the radon barrier. it's a detail I've never seen before, radon barrier across level from internal to external skin at dpc level, then a tray down from the first course internal to dpc external. Two trays if you will.

A bit of a strange one. My drawing says to use "high performance Zedex DPC or similar approved" for the all dpc/tray at dpc level. I've never heard of this product and none of the local merchants stock it. When reading about it, it says that it does not conform to BS6515 standard which is what I'd associate with "normal" dpc rolls. Anyone any experience with this stuff? I'm a bit wary of it tbh. I'm also installing a radon barrier which is perhaps why they've put this Zedex stuff on the drawing in addition to the radon barrier.