Kombi Camper

thanks George. I don't want to talk to a SE about a small timber building with a lightweight roof. As I understand it you only need a ridge BEAM if your roof is 14 degrees or less. Mine is 22.5 degrees. I read that here https://todayshomeowner.com/roofing/guides/ridge-board-vs-ridge-beam/#:~:text=The ridge beam transfers the,%2F12 and 12%2F12.

I am planning an outhouse/gardenroom/shed. It will be a basic rectangle 6.5m wide by 4m deep. e.g front and back 6.5m and the sides 4m. I want to use corrugated cladding (aesthetic reasons) on the walls and roof so I have decided to build a pitched roof and not the flat rubber one I thought I was going to build. I have cut birdsmouths before and understand the rafter calculations to get all my cuts right but I cannot find any infomation on how to tie the front and back wall together. I know my roof will be relatively lightweight but I can't help thinking that it will push the front and back walls out if they are not braced together. I want to insulate between the rafetres so that when you walk into the room and look up you see the full height, like a vaulted ceiling. I cannpt find any info on how to construct that. Am I being super dense? The stud walls will be made from 6x2 and I am hoping 6x2 will also be good for the rafters. DO I need cross members> If so where can I find details on construction options? Many thanks

I'm not using insulated panels. I will lay 18mm osb on top of my joists (rafters) then a vapour barrier, then 100mm PIR foil backed both side, then finish off with 11mm osb (I think I can dispense with the 11mm osb as I'm not having a rubber roof so I don't need a nice smooth surface). My question is about screwing through that sandwhich to fix my battens down into the joists (rafters). Hope that makes sense. I know it's not good to puncture the vapour barrier but I'm 55 and only need the building to last 20 odd years if I'm lucky

so just screw the battens down through the sandwich to the joist? I realise that I will puncture the VCL doing that but is it really a big deal in this scenario where it's basically an occasional room?

I am about to start building a timber frame outbuilding but am slightly going round in circles on how I achieve the look I would like. I want to clad the external walls in black corrugated metal sheets and I'd like to do the roof to match. I could do a rubber roof but it's not really the look I want (rustic ish). I am hooked on the idea of a warm roof for all of it's benefits (easy to lay whole sheets of PIR, vapor barrier, less thermal bridging etc). But I don't know how I can fix the metal sheets to the roof without screwing battens all the way through the sandwich (osb, vcl, pir, osb) into the joists below. The building will be a place for the family to hang out, cook, log burner etc so I wonder if I am over thinking/engineering the build. It will be occupied and heated sporadically so I wonder if I shoudl just do a cold roof and out the PIR between the joists, min 50mm gap above the PIR to the sheet and vented front and back. I have a worjshop with a metal roof and it drips a lot when there's very low temps, - that's probably why I am hooked on the warm roof too. Any advice would be gratefully received, even just ideas.

Looking for some general construction advice please ? I am about to start building a timber 'garden room inside an agricultural building. The agri building is not insulated, it's quite rudimentary and will mostly just provide shelter for the new timber building from the wind and rain. The 'garden room' will be used as a clean workroom for mum (painting, hobby crafts etc) and an office space for me (desk, computer, photo printer etc) so it needs to be dry and warm. Dimensions approx 16x12ft or 5x3.5m. I already have by chance brand new upvc window and door for it off a friend. I've watched a few youtube vids and am happy I know how to make and insulate the base. I'd like to keep my costs down and wonder if I need to make the building so strong as the roof will just be shed felt (the thicker stuff not the paper stuff). Is it overkill to proceed with 4x2's (CLS equivalent) and 100mm PIR insulation etc. Afterall, this is a building that is essentially already inside and just needs to be warm and dry. Would you use 3x2 (metric equvl) and 50mm PIR for walls and ceiling? My reason for using PIR is it's great U value in shallow thicknesses and the fact that it will be a vapour barrier if I tape all the joints and timber faces well. Any other ideas to save on costs?