Jude1234

The house is timber frame if that makes any difference?

You are correct that there is some mortar that has come away on the other side as well. Would it just be a case of getting the pointing done?

Thank you all for the feedback. I would not know where to start to resolve it, what sort of tradesman would I get in to look at it? I definitely do not have a 10 year NHBC certificate. unfortunately.

Hi, Please see pics below of the inside and the corresponding outside corner

Hi Ali, Please see pictures below, it is near a downpipe.

Hi Our house was built 5 years by a small building company who has recently gone out of business. As part of the mortgage application we had to get an architect cert and obviously it was signed off by building control. There is visible damp in one corner and I suspect there might be more in other areas but I haven't checked. What are my options? Is there any point contacting either building control or the architect, would the be in any way liable? Due to divorce I will be selling the property when my son goes to uni Sept 2025 so I don't want any nasty surprises when potential buyers get surveys done. Any advice greatly appreciated.

Thanks for the links, good to know it is possible to buy something if a mortgage provider demands it

Thanks for the advice. I wonder if it would put off potential buyers? They probably haven't heard of an architect certificate and would probably be sceptical/wary about purchasing?

Hi All, We had a contractor do the majority of our house build then fell out with them and I got individual trades to finish off. For cost and because we had no plans to sell we did not get a 10 year guarantee, only a 7 Yr architect certificate as it was a requirement of the mortgage provider. We moved in Nov 2018 although building control sign off was slightly later. Now, due to relationship break up, we may need to sell. But will anyone buy it, or be able to get a mortgage on it? Any experience gratefully appreciated.

It isn't going to be the final layer I just wanted something cheap as I have to make up the external ground level to about 2 bricks in height.

My OH will love that, men and their machines lol

Thank you all. This site is amazing ?

I am now looking at finishing part of outside so I can get BC sign off (need the entrance to be wheelchair accessible ). I need a lot of material to bring up to floor level. Have read on here about tar planings that can be really cheap but how do I find them? And roughly what is a good price for them?

Hi @AliGas you say it has warmed up outside so the temperature inside is fine. An experienced heat engineer did come to assess and verbally told me that there should have been some sort of heating installed upstairs as the ground floor heating wasn't set up to heat the entire house. I am just waiting for this in writing then I will discuss with the contractors who originally advised me that no heating was required upstairs. I will need to have some electric heaters fitted in the bedrooms at some point before next winter when money allows. In parallel I have been going round sealing up any leaks ie where the main electricity comes in.

The better insulation is primarily for sound insulation rather than heat (on a flight path) Thank you all for the guidance, I think I have understood. We need to increase the UFH input temperature and run for longer, and have the lower temp down only to 18C rather than 16C. Is that correct? From the manifold the pipe spacing is 150mm. Tonight the input temperature is actually 40C (not changed anything, must just be that on a weekend the heating is on all day)