Leedschap

Photos not the best, but it’s 2.6m from the external wall to the dry stone dwarf wall you can see in 2nd pic. So I figured 3m would allow a decent bearing both ends. Was planning on replacing a section of the dry stone wall with a (substantial) concrete plinth, and casting in “sockets” for the sleeper ends. i hadn’t thought about a steel plate but i like that idea as less intrusive and as you say removes cold bridges etc. I’m sure I can find a fabricator to knock something up. Only possible issue is fixing to the wall as house is built from 100mm thick hollow blocks, I’m not sure that expansion bolts / thunder bolts would be secure enough? wondering if the additional load is likely to cause any issues with the window below? im assuming this has a box section type lintel like the other windows in the house. in terms of edge protection I had in mind full railings with spindles as would be lethal to kids otherwise! Thankfully it is very private and invisible to neighbouring properties.

Here is photo from inside of property through window which am proposing to turn into doorway.

Our garden rises steeply from the back from our property via a series of retaining walls / steep slopes to a terrace area at the top. It’s about 6m height difference from the back door to the terrace. Access is a bit long winded as the only steps up are round the side of the house by the road at the front. I’d like to make access to the garden from the house easier and try and tie the two together a bit more. Im considering replacing a first floor window on the landing with a door, and building a walkway / bridge which will mean the garden can be entered at a higher level, much quicker and easier. My initial thought is to form a circa 0.9m wide walkway using a pair of 3m x 0.3m x 0.125m hardwood (jarrah) sleepers inserted into the outer leaf of the house, bearing on a stone foundation I will build into the slope. Then use planked jarrah sleepers for walkway treads and adding handrails both sides. Will need to build a couple of new steps to tie into existing garden path. The look will be somewhat rustic but ties into the rest of the garden and terrace which uses similar sleepers. Would appreciate thoughts on viability of this project and whether this is likely to work! Was hoping to avoid use of structural engineer as load seems relatively low - 3-400kg for structure plus pedestrian use? photo of window and outdoor area here Cheers RD

I’m coming round to the idea of digging it out. Of course, if I’m doing that I will put in a decent amount of insulation. I may also be able to eek out another 10cm of head room which would be a bonus. I think the thing that confuses me is is the EPC lists solid floor insulation as the first thing to do, but it only raises the score by 1!! From 43 to 44. Which implies it is of limited value but of course I know this is not the case.

The ceiling height is only 2.33m so looking to minimise buildup. I had read if I understood correctly that 25mm xps would reduce heat loss by 50% so seemed worthwhile. That said I think I am going to do some investigation on the slab construction and depth of foundations. I can see the benefit in replacing the slab but if I have to underpin the walls it would be a non-starter due to cost I think!

Hi All Just purchased a 1970s detached dormer bungalow in north wales. Its a full renovation project. Heating is currently via a knackered oil fired rayburn. Solid floors and cavity walls. As part of the renovation works I would like to improve the insulation of the property and install a more energy efficient heating system. This is what I am currently thinking, - Walls - EPC says filled cavity, but will check this and top up if needed. Plus - internal wall insulation on all external walls (50 mm PIR bonded plasterboard drylining using GypLyner or similar) - Floors - 25 mm high density XPS glued to floor, engineered wood flooring on top (no battens). Have considered relaying floor but level of disruption is off putting - Roof - add 100 mm PIR board to dormer ceilings (there is no accessible loft as roof void is habitable space), minimum 300 mm loft insulation in eaves) - Heating - air source heat pump. New central heating system with oversized radiators, pipes run behind new drylining. - Windows and doors - replace all with A rated The EPC report for the property has it down as low E rated at the moment but is not much help as the only insulation recommendations are for the solid floor! This probably isn't going to be a forever house but likely will be there 10 years and we would like a nice warm property which doesn't cost a fortune to run. Am I thinking on the right lines?