Bart1664

For anyone that is interested I've had confirmation (from building control guy we used for sewage treatment plant) that as it's not a new installation and were simply renewing the old antiquated pipes building control do not need to be involved.

Thanks for this. I will forge ahead now.

Hahahaha....forgiveness rather than permission ....generally easier to get ?

Thanks And I'm with you on this but my only concern would be when I come to sell as I'd more than likely want to promote the fact that it's been done and hence a conveyancer or surveyor would likely ask for the relevant documents? So just want to do what's right but finding out what that actually is doesn't seem to be clear.

Thanks Oz So is that an opinion or no, I don't require BC to be involved. I can't see why they need to be as I'm not extending anything just replacing with new but LABC seem to quote 'Approved Document H' under Building Regs 2010 but it's not cleat if they should be involved or not?

Hi all We are about replace/renew all our rainwater gullies to accommodate a new footpath around the house as it's currently too high. Whilst we're at it we propose to renew all the drains carrying the water to the existing outlet which is a small stream that runs through our property. There are no environmental issues/restrictions with the stream and will be the same as when it was built in 1969 just new and we have no near neighbours. Do I require building control to be involved? Thanks in advance

Just thought I'd add for completeness (in case anyone is interested) that I've had written confirmation from the manufacture of Biopure (the system we went with) that a water softener on this system will have no adverse effects.

Thank you for your reply 'Temp' We have read that document (several times in fact) and a few others on Land Registry and general solicitors web sites where they broadly comment on the subject. We are not seeking to acquire the track for ownership simply obtain a formal right of access in case an owner does surface. So as far as we can tell we fall into this category from the gov web site: 3.4 Burdened land is unregistered An application for a caution against first registration can be made if the burdened land is unregistered. See practice guide 3: cautions against first registration for information on how to lodge a caution against first registration. because there is no registered owner of the track with LR and none that we can establish locally to tell them we can only request a 'CAUTION' against any first registration that does happen in the future. The form with LR seems straight forward enough but we are trying to make sure we apply for the correct thing...however, would you suggest that a solicitor with experience in this area would be money well spent instead?

We have a cottage which has been on the plot for over 150 years it is accessed via a single gravel track which also goes on to serve two other properties. When we bought the house no owner of the gravel track could be identified and there was nothing in our Deeds regarding access but we do have an insurance indemnity policy to cover the event someone comes out of the woodwork to claim/register the land. However we now want to obtain something a little more formal and looking for some help on what we have read and communicated with Land Registry to ensure we understand it correctly and looking for clarity on what we are entitled to seek: 1. Because we can not identify an owner for the gravel track we can only obtain a 'Caution' against first registration of the gravel track? 2. We can obtain an 'Easement' as we have sworn declarations going back 51 years of unhindered access on foot and vehicle? Many thanks in advance

Indeed, my thoughts now. Mrs B is contacting the local firm as I write. ?

Thanks for the replies. It's surface mounted. There is a company local to us that fits granite tops so they may do adjustments too so I think I'll give them a call first and see if they can do it otherwise I'll haveto go buy the blades and stones and give it a go myself.

Well, I'm fairly confident and happy to 'have a go' but didn't know if it's something I should go at or leave to a professional if i could find one that would do it?

Yep....!

Yes...'thems the rules' but in rural areas I understand that things are sometimes done slightly off piste!

I was going to go down the new septic route but not enough land to put a drainage field. Good luck to you. I was told though that the EA can't keep up with the work and have no idea how many homes have good, bad or ugly septic tanks anyway. Hopefully personal responsibility to do the right thing by the environment will ensure new ones are compliant!

We have what I believe to be a granite worktop (shiny black stone) kitchen work top, could be something else but it's not timber etc. definitely stone of some sort. Anyhow, we need a new sink and we can't get a replacement. So we have found a reasonable quality stainless steel one however the inset/cut out of the existing hole needs to be enlarged to take this new sink by 5mm across the long edge. This could be 2.5 mm top and bottom or 5mm one side. The issue is can a DIY'er do it and if so how? I've seen a few tube videos showing grinding stones and diamond cutting discs - is this the way? Anyone done this? It will have to be cut/grinded in situ but don't want it cracking as to replace would be very costly I suspect. Advice/guidance welcomed.

Hi Peachy I've PM'd you but for anyone else we chose BioPure and are (so far using for last 2 weeks) very happy with our choice.

We moved into our property on 30th October but have been told to expect a much longer wait for the formal registration at Land Registry due to current situation. My question however is around the 'other' documents such as original: Electrical safety certificates Gas safety certificates Sworn Declaration for access along a track Building Control Certificate We are being told by our solicitor that we can't have any of the originals until Land Registry formalities have been completed which seems odd given we provided all originals to our buyers and were never advised by the same solicitor not to do so? Hope a legal mind can assist? Thanks

Which model do you have? We've been recommended the Biopure 1 as we have a 3 bed

Thanks Jamie I'll have to ask Biopure what they think on Monday then.

Thank you. Yes, we've settled on the Biopure too but I haven't asked them the question about water softener.

Thanks Peter. Have you had the effluent tested in that time to confirm?

We're going to be having a new sewage treatment plant fitted in the new year (Biopure 1) however, we live in a hard water area so does anyone have any insight into whether a water softener will affect the treatment plant itself/bacteria or the final effluent quality? There are a few articles in good old Google but they largely give conflicting advice. Thanks

Thank Tony I really appreciate your thoughts. The ground level (pic2) shows the foundation bricks, dpc and air brick. The first layer of mortar does appear very crumbly and I believe it to be lime but the rest of the house appears cement so at least that first layer of mortar will require renewing. We had quite a bit of rain yesterday and you can see the dampness laying on and in that course which can't be right? The top floor windows mirror the ground floor (see pic) and were installed a few years ago (again by the previous occupants) and the rain water drains are on and in places (we have 5) actually above the dpc so I'm told these really need to be below dpc and if so I'll have no choice but to lower the path.

No. I'm happy to accept any straws....clutched or otherwise! If we call the pic with the black down pipe PIC1 and the other PIC2. PIC1 - nearest rad is along that wall (away from down pipe) but about 7-8 feet away PIC2 - no rad along that wall only log burner recessed. Although I'm fairly certain that the large external chimney appearance is almost 'folly' like as it seem far too large for what is on the other side and there is very minor damage anywhere near the burner (almost so you can't see see it) I think what we plan on doing before any internal destruction is: 1. Remove and lower the external concrete path all the way round 2. Repoint all brick and stone work So two questions here is: 1. Lime or normal mortar - given it has a cavity I'm told I don't need to use lime 2. Should I seal up foundation bricks (below DPC) after they have been repointed with some type of proprietary paint sealer?